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Winterization Questions - 4.3L GL PBYC

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  • Winterization Questions - 4.3L GL PBYC

    I performed the following winterization procedures and want to make sure I completed all the steps required before we start freezing here in Canada:

    with boat level:
    Pulled two engine block drain plugs
    Pulled two exhaust manifold drain plugs
    Pulled two pipes off of the raw water pump
    pulled bottom of pipe off of the engine water circulator
    pulled top of pipe off of the Power Steering cooler and ran some antifreeze down the pipe until i was sure there was no water left in the power steering cooler

    pulled the plug on the front of the motor for the intake manifold cooling and lowered the bow on the boat until it was way lower than the stern.

    Things I haven't done: I also read in a volvo penta manual online that I should pull the pipes off of the front of the exhaust manifold, disconnect and drain long hose (A) at thermostat housing. Lower alongside block and drain completely. Also in this manual it mentions a "small water by-pass hose between fuel reservoir and the top of the thermostat housing" which i did not see when i was doing all this work.

    It also mentions turning over the motor with the two pipes off of the raw water pump which i didn't do. However with the pipes off i did have the boat level, bow way down and stern way down so not sure if this step is needed?

    Finally my last question is about a step that mentions the oil cooler and draining the water out of there. I am not sure where this is and would somebody be able to direct me to where I can find it?

    Edit: Manual at first glance appears to be for the 3.0 but at the front mentions that it is for the 4.3 GL as well: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/91...page=47#manual

  • #2
    I can't comment on the finer Volvo points not owning one, but going back to the basics, when you remove a drain plug, water should drain. So:
    ​When you removed the plugs on each side of the engine block, did it drain water? If not poke the drain hole with a length of stiff wire, or a very thin long screwdriver, because it could be clogged with flaking rust. Same for the exhaust manifold drains, each one holds about 2 qts of water, so a lot should drain. With the Power Steering cooler, my OMC is set up the same way and I used to try to get at that drain plug, it is very tough to reach although with my new Volvo style exhaust system I can get at it easier than when I had the OMC Batwings. But I did it both ways, I disconnected the raw water intake hose and pointed it down in the bilge, then removed the plug, and when drained the hose first, there was no water in it. So what I starting doing after that, was drain the hose, then fill it with -100 marine antifreeze till it ran out the water intakes. I've done it that way for at least 10 years and never had a problem. I also do back fill the engine & manifolds with the same AF, but in fresh water regions that may be unnecessary. If you have metal plugs, I would coat the threads with OMC gasket sealer, Merc perfect seal or Permatex Aviation sealer, to prevent rust in the threads. They will come out easily the next year if you do that.

    ​About the 2 hoses on the raw water pump, do not mix them up, or else your impeller will not get water and will burn up. Always mark them before removing.
    1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
    4.3 OMC Cobra

    98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
    07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

    "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by whitebunnyflock View Post
      I performed the following winterization procedures and want to make sure I completed all the steps required before we start freezing here in Canada:

      It also mentions turning over the motor with the two pipes off of the raw water pump which i didn't do. However with the pipes off i did have the boat level, bow way down and stern way down so not sure if this step is needed?

      https://www.manualslib.com/manual/917510/Volvo-Penta-3-0gs-Sx.html?page=47#manual[/URL]
      I think Lou touched on everything else, but in regards to the quote above, the reason is because some water is still in the raw water pump housing along with the impeller. I pull the ignition wire from the top of the distributor cap to prevent starting, then bump the starter a couple times. This spins the impeller and forces out any water still trapped in the pump housing.
      2007 Seaswirl 210 BR
      Volvo Penta 5.0GL-H and SX-A
      Aerial Airborne tower
      Perfect Pass Stargazer

      Comment


      • #4
        You can either do that, or get a hose that is about the same size as the ones that are normally attached to the impeller, after marking and disconnecting them, hook up your extra hose, with a funnel to the impeller housing and hold it up. Then just flush out the impeller housing by pouring -100 marine AF in the hose, this will push out any water. Same idea with filling the hose from the impeller housing to the transom mount to flush water out of the p/s cooler, and other cooling hoses in the transom mount.
        1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
        4.3 OMC Cobra

        98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
        07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

        "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

        Comment


        • #5
          i definitely saw a lot of water coming out of each plug that i pulled out whether exhaust manifold or engine block (i did poke a wire down some but it was already gushing out). I guess all that is left for me to do is for the impeller in that case.

          Although i am still not sure where the oil cooler is unless that is in reference to the power steering cooler? and also this "small water bypass hose". hopefully i will have a chance to look at it tonight.

          thanks for the help guys. Unfortunately i did not mark the impeller hoses so will have to be sure i am getting them right.

          Comment


          • #6
            Power steering cooler is in the raw water intake hose located at the transom, just follow the power steering pump hoses, simple.
            Get the raw water pump hoses locations from the manual or a parts list.

            This is a link to the fuel system which the cooling water goes to from the thermostat housing, it would probably be easiest to run some anti freeze in to it.
            https://www.volvopentashop.com/Nauti...%2F7797500_010
            Last edited by dypcdiver; September 27th, 2017, 05:21 AM.

            Cranchi Ellipse 21
            5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
            DP-SM outdrive

            Comment


            • #7
              follow the manual

              In addition to what the manual states, I usually pull the impeller from the raw water pump and zip tie it to the steering wheel. that way it doesnt take a set from sitting

              there are arrows on the pump casting indicating flow direction depending on direction pump is turning. use those to guide you when you put the hoses back on in spring
              1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

              Past Boats
              1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
              2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheasheads in Paradise"
              1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

              What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by dypcdiver View Post
                Power steering cooler is in the raw water intake hose located at the transom, just follow the power steering pump hoses, simple.
                Get the raw water pump hoses locations from the manual or a parts list.

                This is a link to the fuel system which the cooling water goes to from the thermostat housing, it would probably be easiest to run some anti freeze in to it.
                https://www.volvopentashop.com/Nauti...%2F7797500_010
                I looked at the thermostat housing last night and i can't see where this is connected to it. It has the two hoses going out to the exhaust manifold, the hose coming in from the impeller and the hose out to the water circulator. is it possible that mine doesn't have this?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sorry I have confused you, the drawing is for the 4.3 GIPBYCCE, 4.3GIJBYA the fuel injected engines. It looks as if your GL-PBYC does not have the separator tank..

                  Cranchi Ellipse 21
                  5.0Gi (PWTR) 1999.
                  DP-SM outdrive

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by dypcdiver View Post
                    Sorry I have confused you, the drawing is for the 4.3 GIPBYCCE, 4.3GIJBYA the fuel injected engines. It looks as if your GL-PBYC does not have the separator tank..

                    i was wondering about that, well i guess I am fully winterized! thanks everyone for the help

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My old tried and tested procedure for my old VP 205A 4.3

                      Take out both block drain plugs and let them visually drain...
                      Take out exhaust manifold drain plugs (either underneath or bigger and at the rear 22mm spanner size (Depending on age) and allow to drain.
                      Then take off front exhaust manifold rubber hoses and blow through them. Water should come out the back plugs or underneath.
                      Take off the big rubber hose on the bottom of water pump and hold as far down as you can get it into the bilge.
                      Take off thermo stat hoses, just to make sure....notjing will likely come out given the above.
                      Then, if you have an engine Fed coloifier hot water system, take these hoses off the front of the block and blow through them until empty...
                      After all that, the water should have stopped draining from the block plugs....stick a rigid piece of wire or thin screwdrivers in the holes to make sure it isn't blocked.
                      After all that, stuck hoses and fitting back in and either leave as is or go down the antifreeze route....but that's another chapter.
                      I didn't bother with the old VP, but I do now. It stops the very reason we poke at the holes in the block, to make sure they are clear.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I read somewhere that on the 4.3 that it has drains for the heads also. You might check to see if that is true.
                        Summer Fling-II
                        2008 Chaparral Sunesta 264
                        Summer Fling
                        2003 Chaparral Sunesta 243

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No it does not. There is a drain on the front of the intake for the Vortec engines, that the pre-vortec models did not have.
                          1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
                          4.3 OMC Cobra

                          98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
                          07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

                          "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Lou C View Post
                            No it does not. There is a drain on the front of the intake for the Vortec engines, that the pre-vortec models did not have.
                            That's what I was thinking of. Thanks for clearing that up.
                            Summer Fling-II
                            2008 Chaparral Sunesta 264
                            Summer Fling
                            2003 Chaparral Sunesta 243

                            Comment


                            • #15
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                              Oh and here is another tidbit of information, when I said to use marine antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors, there is a cheaper alternative. The really good stuff (-100 with a freeze temp of about -60) is very expensive. The -60 is ok for mild winter climates but might be marginal in extreme cold. You can buy Sierra antifreeze, which is the same propylene glycol stuff with corrosion inhibitors and you can mix it up to whatever strength you want, if you have a PG hydrometer to measure the freeze level. I picked up a couple of those a few years back and I am going to switch to the Sierra stuff because you can buy it here for 12 bucks a gallon, full strength. Normally you mix this 50/50 with water for a -34 freeze point. This about half the price of what West Marine and some others charge for the -100 stuff. Good option if you can by Sierra no tox antifreeze local and you can get a PG hydrometer. The ones for ethylene glycol will not work on propylene glycol.....
                              1988 Four Winns 200 Horizon
                              4.3 OMC Cobra

                              98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 Selectrac
                              07 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Quadradrive II

                              "While air doesn't freeze....rust never sleeps"

                              Comment

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