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VP 2006 5.7L GXI cranks but no start

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  • VP 2006 5.7L GXI cranks but no start

    Hello, new member here, though I have been consulting this site for the last couple of years and solved several problems as a result. Unfortunately, my current vessel has given me more problems than the last six combined, though I believe through no fault of the current engine or boat manufacturer. Boat is a 2007 Rinker 262 Captiva—beautiful boat—with the Volvo Penta 320 HP 5.7L GXI-H engine #3869368.

    Almost every sensor has been replaced on this boat in the last year, including the ignition module and coil, heads resurfaced, two starters, new alternator, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, and ignition switch, to mention a few.

    Based on previous problems that I have had, I purchased the Diacom software to do my own repair work, as the last two repair entities did not do any better and actually much worse than my own repairs. However, my weakness—like many-- is in troubleshooting electrical gremlins.

    The story: After installing an in-dash GPS speedometer, I took the boat for a short test ride—it performed flawlessly. Came back to the dock, loaded the wife to go back out and, first start attempt almost worked--I expected it start right up-- but not quite— so I quickly reengaged the starter and it just spun—NO engagement of the Bendix to the ring gear. After some testing—finally just pulled the starter took it to the shop. They replaced it with a caveat—"would not replace it again"—as they felt it was sudden stoppage such as hydro-lock that caused the failure (stripped the gears internally! I mention this because I think the next malfunction/symptom is what really caused the problem with the starter.)

    So, in goes the new starter and a much more wary start attempt. Next thing is the boat would start but not stay running. Would start and run normally for a minute, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, then just die.

    More troubleshooting and I notice fuel pumps turning on and off intermittently, relays clicking on and off, other clicking sounds from the port side of the engine—and I could swear the engine jumped like it was going to start with no one near the ignition and me laying on top of the engine nowhere near the starter! Happened twice. In pulling and swapping relays, ignition and battery switch on and off, the voodoo activation of the pumps and relays, etc. finally stopped. Not sure what happened or why, but then could not restart the engine.

    The engine now cranks over fine, initially threw a Crankshaft Sensor code or two several times on the Diacom, and although the sensor was already replaced in the last year, I went ahead and put another new one in. No change in the start—still no spark. Tried replacing the Camshaft Sensor that I have as a used spare AND an Ignition Module and coil—still no spark. Batteries starting getting a little low after the start attempts-- 12.3V--12.4V so they are on the charger…

    The fuel pumps run for 2 seconds when “run” is selected at the ignition switch, and I have 12V at the ignition switch from the battery, and at the ignition lead of the switch when I select the run position. I have 12V at the ignition and fuel pump relays-- as of course the fuses. The only significant voltage I have is at the Cam Position sensor at 5.0 V, none at the ignition module or coil! Also checked the ground from the connection at the ignition module plug—was good.

    I have disconnected the GPS since that was the last electrical component installed and it was connected to the ignition and battery leads at the ignition switch. Basically, everything appears normal to me except no or insignificant voltage to the ignition components on the engine. Unless there is some other component between the ECM/EGC and the ignition module or the relay, I am afraid the ECM may be bad—bought new in FEBRUARY. NOT HAPPY.
    I am pretty much at my limit on expertise at this point, so unless there are some ideas here, next step is hire someone to come out to troubleshoot and try confirm or deny the ECM is the culprit. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

  • #2
    none at the ignition module or coil
    Power to the ECM, coil comes from the main power relay. If you have no power to the coil then trace back to the relay
    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
    07 SeaDoo GTX
    Raw Water Pump Maintenance
    Merc Adults Only
    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks AllDodge. If memory serves me correctly it will be in the main wiring harness behind the engine. Might be a few days to have enough time to tear into it. Not the easiest item to reach on my particular craft...

      Comment


      • #4
        I wouldn't get into the main harness yet. Go to the relays, find the main power and fuel pump relays. Check that there is power on one side (should be Red wire) with key off. With Key ON the relay should energize and send power to coil and ECM. Don't have a good wiring diagram for the GXI but other EFI models use a Pink wire which powers the ECM and coil
        94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
        95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
        07 SeaDoo GTX
        Raw Water Pump Maintenance
        Merc Adults Only
        G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

        Comment


        • #5
          Check the grounds on the engine, and make sure they are shinny clean and tight. They are often overlooked, and could be an easy fix. Same for the battery connections. Bad grounds will give you all the symptoms you are describing. Dave-R

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          • #6
            Appreciate the inputs! Yeah a lot of folks skimp on the 'ground' wires--can't do that on a boat. Just as important as the wires/connections that carry the load. This is my end of the year week at work, so overtime and possible weekend work--will try to implement the solutions above as soon as I can.

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            • #7
              Finally had time to start examining the wiring harness between the "fuse and relay box" and the ignition module, coil and cam sensor today. I noticed that with key on / battery on, I could duplicate the previous symptoms of fuel pumps on/off, starter bump, relays on/off, etc. Could not find a problem with those wires which actually went to the "14 pin connector". I also noticed that when moving the aforementioned bundle the crank sensor wiring was also being moved. Since I had previously found a bad section of wire in that harness, I didn't expect to find ANOTHER bad spot, but sure enough --two wires were separated/barely connected.

              Repaired that problem, and now have a RUNNING VP. Water is too choppy today for water test, but will be done at first opportunity. The more I look at this boat, the more I am convinced it had a fire and was possibly flooded--due to the number of corroded connectors--and that was on a boat with only "60" hours--verified by my Diacom. Now only has about 90 hours and I have owned for 3.5 years. That is how little use it has gotten due to one problem after another... next boat will be checked by a certified marine inspector...
              Last edited by kdxhx; October 1st, 2017, 01:49 PM.

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              • #8
                Sign up today
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                94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                07 SeaDoo GTX
                Raw Water Pump Maintenance
                Merc Adults Only
                G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

                Comment

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