Repair Cylinder or replace block

[westriverboater]

First post here. I have a 2002 4.3l penta with a small crack in one cylinder. We are not cetain what the root cause of the crack is: frost plugs are all good, engines didn't overheat that I am aware of however it was detonating from occasionally. Engine is out and apart and we are debating swapping out the cylinder sleeve or bringing in a new short block (heads have been resurfaced and valve reseated). The engine has low hours on it and everything seems to be in good condition.

My concern with replacing the sleeve is; has there been any other damage to the block that may not be showing up and will the replaced sleeve be as good as the original. Cost for this would be about $1,200.

I see short block on-line for about $1,300 usd, with shipping and exchange it works out to be just over $2,000 to my location in Canada. Add another $500 for labour to put everything back together and I am looking at $2,500. I have concerns about the quality of parts and the additional issue of being SOL if there are issues because of the distance factor. Local re-manufactured blocks are running $3,800 to $5,000.

Leaning toward replacing the sleeve, thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

Have not seen a 4.3 block that has sleeves. Maybe I have some misunderstanding in the terms used

 

[Scott Danforth]

repaired blocks are iffy

only diesels come with replaceable sleeves. the 4.3 block is busted, best you can do is a sleeve which requires complete disassembly, machining, then boring and honing (more costly than a new block)

your over thinking it.

go to a you-pull-it salvage yard. find a running but smashed S-10 from 1998-2003. pull the motor for $300, strip it down and sell off the automotive stuff on kijji. now you have a free block and heads

then get brass core plugs and marine head gaskets, assemble your motor back together, using all the accessories from your marine motor

you should probably get a new intake and exhaust manifolds, because most likely your block cracked from improper winterization, which means the intake and exhaust are probably cracked to.

so you now have a running motor for about $600 plus what ever intake and exhaust manifolds you need.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... Dry sleevin' a block is for fixin' a block ya can't replace,.... 4.3ls are a dime a dozen,... Replace it,....

 

[westriverboater]

Yes poor translation on my part... sleeve involves boring out and inserting. Thanks for the advice and comments. I actually came across a good deal on a local rebuild, so going that route.

 

[westriverboater]

Probably should start a new posting here but can't seem to see how to do that... Anyway got my boat back this week with a rebuilt block, plained heads and re-seated valves. Took it out for two runs and the engines works great, nice and smooth with good power, didn't take it over 3500 rpm as I was just wanting to ease it back. Then within a few minutes I lost oil pressure and the engines was knocking on idle. Oil was coming out the back of the boat into the water. Checked the dip stick and it was totally dry. We were lucky to get a tow in. Upon inspection, I could not see any oil in the bilge, ruling out any internal engine leaks?? I put about 4 liters of oil in it to bring to full, then ran the engine in the driveway with the hose connected. Ran it for about 10 min and oil pressure and temp were normal. However there was a lot of oil residue coming out of the raw water exhaust. In the 10 minutes I ran the engine, the oil went down approximately 1/2 a liter. Hauled the boat back to the shop today(Sunday) but would like to have some ideas on what is happening here?

 

[alldodge]

What was done buy the shop which rebuilt the motor?

 

[westriverboater]

HI All Dodge... not sure what you mean? A rebuilt short block was installed, heads were plained and valves reseated. They also replaced something in the carb - not sure what. I am seeing some comments about too high of oil pressure being a cause for the oil consumption but the black soot always seems to be connected with rich fuel. Is it possible the oil burn and the soot are two separate issues?

 

[alldodge]

Was wondering if the block just had rings done or a complete rebuild, sounds like a complete rebuild. It's the terminology which was making me wonder. If you have an oil cooler then it may have a crack, either that or somewhere in the block

 

[westriverboater]

No it was suppose to be a total rebuild.

 

[alldodge]

Sure hope you have an oil cooler, otherwise the block/head has an issue

 

[westriverboater]

Someone else suggested the oil rings may be in upside down? Going to pull engine and tear it down. Thanks everyone for their advice and suggestions. I'll provide an update if we ever get this resolved.

 

[alldodge]

Someone else suggested the oil rings may be in upside down?

Don't think so. The oil ring is made of two rings and a spacer. While the compression rings can be installed upside down the oil ring cannot.

 

[jimmbo]

Missing valve seals come to mind here. But bad or missing oil rings can do this too. Was the engine burning the oil or just pushing out the exhaust?

 

[westriverboater]

[No message]

 

[jimmbo]

Ok, you are showing a pail of something?

 

[westriverboater]

Yes, that was coming out on my exhaust when I was flushing my rebuilt engine - very sooty burnt oil. It was sucking oil through somewhere. Changed heads and it is now fixed - hopefully. Thanks