Gimbal Ring / Bell housing REMOVAL SX

[yzman720]

2006 Volvo Penta 5.0 Sx Trying to replace trim sender sensor Got this far and cant figure out how the gimbal ring comes off? The pin in the bottom I drew yellow arrow to is it pressed in or how is it removed? after this is removed will the whole ring slide back? for enough access to where to trim sensor bushing goes through the transom?

 

[89retta]

It would have been easier just to cut and splice the wires. That's what a lot of people do and have no problems. The trim sender is on the starboard side and all you have to do is to turn to port and you can remove it. No need to remove your leg as you have done.

 

[bruceb58]

You don't need to take the gimbal ring off. At worst, you remove the pivot housing and I doubt you even need to do that.

 

[RCSConstruction]

You don't need to take the gimbal ring off. At worst, you remove the pivot housing and I doubt you even need to do that.

This ^^.. I just did it. It made it much easier to do with pivott off, but I could of done it without taking it off.

 

[yzman720]

I'm learning that there is a retention clip on the inside of the engine compartment that holds this in place. Any idea of how much has to be removed to gain access to the clip?

 

[RCSConstruction]

Just have to reach back there. It's next to the fresh water hose on transom mount

 

[Lou C]

Try tilting the pivot housing (the part that has the six studs that the drive bolts to) up and to the left side as you face it. I replaced several trim senders on my OMC Cobra (similar in design) and never had to take anything apart.

 

[dypcdiver]

Re: dp sm trim sender replacement - anyone with experience on changing?

Something I wrote up earlier. http://forums.iboats.com/volvo-penta...se-600213.html Might be interesting to read this old post.

"I presume you have downloaded the manual for the drive from here.

Points I have found that the manual doesn't mention.
From inside the boat.
Remove the raw water intake hose at the transom to give you some room to see and remove the little spring clip that secures the rubber moulded grommet that the wires pass through, tie some string on this clip before you drop it into the bilge. Unless you have the engine out or are a contortionist you will find it very difficult to press the grommet out as suggested in the manual. Tie a single overhand knot in the wire as close as you can get to the grommet, if you don't the wires will pull through the rubber. Remove the plug as in the manual i.e. press out the pins.

Move to the outside and give the external wire a hefty straight pull and it will come out of the transom shield. (or it has done with mine on the 6 occasions I have had to do it)
When you install the new one put some silicone grease on the grommet and firmly press it in from the outside and don't drop the spring clip when you are putting it back inside the boat.
It can be done with the Pivot housing in place, but I have found it easier with it removed, your choice. "

 

[Jammer864]

To answer your question, that pivot pin is not pressed in. Its a slip fit on both sides. At least it is on mine.

 

[yzman720]

anyone have a part number for the spring clip? I dropped it and cant find. it's not going to hurt anything wherever it went is it?

 

[Horigan]

Do you have a telescoping magnet? That's how I fished mine out when I dropped it. It might go into the bilge pump and jam it if you leave it, depending on your bilge configuration.

 

[dypcdiver]

" tie some string on this clip before you drop it into the bilge" You must have been reading too fast and missed this.

The part Number is 3852555 it is called a RETAINER

I believe that the amount of pull needed to get the rubber grommet out of the transom shield means that the little clip is not really needed. However being fitted it slips into place easily if the grommet is CORRECTLY pushed home and as such is a good indication that the grommet is secure,
Your choice

 

[yzman720]

HOLY COW! That little clip is $6! I promise string will be tied to it this time!!! Well I will get it done when it comes in. Now I have heard some people mention calibration. So this isn't just plug and play? How do you calibrate it if it is indeed necessary?

 

[dypcdiver]

My method is not quite as the manual, but works and quite quick.

1. Set the leg so that the prop shaft is parallel with the keel of the boat.

2. With the gauges powered rotate the shaft of the sensor SLOWLY until the gauge reads 0 degrees.

3. Turn the steering hard to port and try to feed the hex rubber into the Allen bolt head without rotating the sensor shaft.

4. Mount the retaining screws but do not tighten them, now fine tune the sensor to 0 degrees and then tighten the screws.

5. Test the trim down and up, you should see about -6 degrees down and about +30 degrees up. If you have a trim limiter you will need to hold in the override button in to get past +6 degrees.

Have fun.

 

[Horigan]

My gauge didn't have numbers, just a color range that starts blue at full down and transitions to red near full up. To calibrate I just put the drive all the way down and rotated the sensor until the gauge reads full down.