Trouble Code 0336 with new motor

[Matt9712]

So long story short I put new motor in my volvo penta 5.7 Gi-F. Can't get it to fire. Spent weeks trying to get it to fire and finally gave up and threw towel in and brought to shop. Shop first thought it was ECM issue as the only code that wouldn't clear was Crank Synch Noise. I didn't feel it was the issue and now they don't either. Now he wants to look in motor with boroscope to see if something wrong with magnet on crankshaft. Does that sound logical and or possible? It's a brand new block. Is there a chance the new crank has a different type of crank that my OEM position sensor won't see for some reason? I emailed the company I purchased block from to see if they ran into this before. It was supposed to be a one for one swap by what they told me......

 

[alldodge]

Will agree if the reluctor wheel is not on the crank it will not fire. It slides on before the timing cover goes on

 

[Matt9712]

Stupid question I'm sure but if by chance they never installed the reluctor wheel can that be installed without pulling motor again?

 

[alldodge]

Stupid question I'm sure but if by chance they never installed the reluctor wheel can that be installed without pulling motor again?

All depends on how much room you have in front of the motor. If you have room to get the balancer and pulley off, you should have enough room to do it.

 

[Matt9712]

There should be plenty of room to get balancer off. Doesn't sound like too painful of a job ...for the boat mechanic lol. Hopefully find out something conclusive tomorrow instead of guesses by the mechanic tho

 

[Matt9712]

And thank you for your help!

 

[Matt9712]

The boat mechanic has now thrown in the towel....... crankshaft magnets looked fine his only guess was to put new ECM in but he's not even sure that's the fix. He put new distributor and new crank shaft sensor in and checked all grounds. Looks like I'm going to pick up my boat in the same shape I dropped it off at ....Thankfully he's not going to charge me due to him not fixing it. Any ideas would be GREATLY APPRECIATED as I am right where i
was weeks ago

 

[alldodge]

Wish I had more ideas but I'm coming up empty.
Hey Fun Times and/or muc do you have time to look?

 

[Fun Times]

Do you see an RPM signal/movement while cranking over the engine?
Do you see/have spark going into and out of the distributor (AKA)--"HVS" High Voltage Switch?
Since the HVS was changed/disturbed, it's not as easy to reinstall as one would think from years past....It would be highly recommended to double check the installation by following the how to info in the first following link to ensure it's done correctly or the engine may not run correctly. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi.../10333709-sensor-part?p=10334725#post10334725

Below is just some general tips for you to catch up on if needed,
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0336
https://www.engine-codes.com/P0336.html

Since the engine block is new, did the/a Crank Sensor come new with the block or did you have to install your old original one?
Did you happen to notice another similar code 0335 when this all started/before clearing? Wondering if the sensor has changed designs some or maybe a shim is needed or was missed at all during engine exchange. The below info is just a theory to consider looking into a bit while you're inspecting your engine further.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLC0E7N47Lw
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0335

 

[Dave-R]

I also have the same distributor, and ignition as you . Make absolutely sure the engine is timed to # 1 cylinder. I used a cork that popped when it was at TDC and the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is dead on. Now your engine is at #1 TDC . When the timing mark is now dead on, then time the distributor buy setting it with the procedure Fun times found for you . I had to have him help me also. It was quite easy once I could see the pictures. Also are you getting power to the fuel pumps? Check power supplies from the ignition switch, past the emergecy stop switch and on to the ignition relay. Also are you getting the warning beeps when you first turn the key on? This says the computer is operating. Are you getting any spark at all? Check the coil plug connection and the distributor connection. Also the ignition module could be toast. does your mechanic have a Rinda diacom? They have a lot of tests to isolate problems with relays and injectors ect. A good tech can find these problems and if they have to they can have Volvo penta look at the data also. Good luck. Dave-R

 

[Matt9712]

Thanks for the help guys! I just got boat back today and I did some voltage measurements like the link you gave me said. The only difference is where it said I should have 12 volts I only had 3.9V but I did have the 5 volts on one lead from crankshaft position sensor. When i cranked the boat I watched the tach and there was no RPM indicated. I rerouted some wiring away from the spark plug wires in case of interference. That didn't change anythingm..figured worth a shot. I pulled the crankshaft position sensor and looked into block and it appears what it rides close to which spins is smooth. I took video of it but can't figure how to post on here. I was expecting to see a whole bunch of notches in it. I will try to convert to gif and upload in a couple minutes. I'm going to pull old motor out shed and see if crank shaft reluctor ring is smooth as well.....

 

[alldodge]

Use you tube and link here

 

[Matt9712]

I'll have to try and figure out my YouTube password it's been a long time since I logged in. I converted file to gif but still won't take it on here. One weird thing might be a fluke....but with key in on position I went to disconnect the main plug and when I was in process of disconnecting it the dash started alarming which I guess could be expected as it see power loss but I also heard noise in my throttle body like a hissing sound like air being released. I then completely disconnected plug and then reinstalled it...Boat fired up ran for about 7-8 seconds then died and wouldn't restart. Unfortunately it didn't click in my head to try again to see if it would start again if I disconnected it again but I will try tomorrow. Also my old motor reluctor ring looks smooth like new one. After googling it , it appears to only have four big dips in ring. I would have thought it to have lots of teeth like a gear. The only difference is old motor looks like it's stainless and new one doesn't appear to be...not sure if dissimilar metals makes a difference or not

 

[Matt9712]

Hopefully this link works. Better video in last couple seconds of it was trying to not get caught in belt in beginning

https://youtu.be/o6O-03robII

 

[Fun Times]

One weird thing might be a fluke....but with key in on position I went to disconnect the main plug and when I was in process of disconnecting it the dash started alarming which I guess could be expected as it see power loss but I also heard noise in my throttle body like a hissing sound like air being released. I then completely disconnected plug and then reinstalled it...Boat fired up ran for about 7-8 seconds then died and wouldn't restart.

Since the engine ran after reinstalling the main wiring harness connector that goes between the engine and helm (dash) components, 99.5 % your non starting issue should be related to something not making perfect connection within the wiring harness losing contact possibly due to slight engine vibration... For now you'll want to concentrate on the wiring harness until you know for sure it's right before moving elsewhere which then since the engine died you may have temporarily ran out of fuel within the fuel filter / fuel pump either due to the fuel system is still priming itself up or the fuel pump is not activating due to a power loss within the main wire harness.
Did you prefill the fuel filter before installing it?? It's best to do so.

Since the engine ran, you now know you have had spark which helps alleviate an issue with the Crankshaft sensor because it worked when the engine ran, which it also told you the RPM gauge did receive a signal at one/that time in order to allow the engine to run too. You just don't have either full 12v + power or possibly - ground at the dash right now which might show at the 12 volt gauge at key-up depending on what wire is losing connection....Or one of the other many wires within the main wire harness between the helm and engine has lost connection not allowing the engine to run.

Your crank sensor is most likely fine at this point, put it back together and work on the wiring...Also as Dave-R mentioned....Are you getting power to the fuel pumps? Because when watching your video, I don't believe I heard them power up which would be another indication of lost power/connection.

The reluctor wheel should look like this one, http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...nboard-engines-outdrives/566975-reluctor-ring

 

[Matt9712]

Thanks for the help so far! I went out and disconnected the main harness and and tried to recreate the start again. It didn't work this time I unplugged and plugged it back in a bunch of times along with doing the old shake method for loose wire checking. Still could not get the boat to fire again. The fuel pump is brand new and when I initially turn the key to ON the pump does kick on for about 2 seconds. All the fuses in the fuse box are good. I unplugged computer and did a point to point from crankshaft sensor to camshaft sensor to ignition module to computer in hopes of finding an open in the circuit. I plan on meggering the circuit with the computer unplugged after work today with the hopes of finding a grounded out wire in system. I am going to try and find a wiring diagram today for my boat as a whole. I purchased the Seloc I think I spelled that right. But it is as useless as screened bottom boat..... The ignition coil will only fire 3-4 times during crank and then will not continue. It is a brand new coil not sure if maybe it just happened to be a bad one but the continuity of coil is good. I am thinking about getting a generic GM crankshaft sensor just to try and eliminate it without a doubt and possibly a coil to eliminate both of them. The shop said they put a new crankshaft sensor in that they had laying around shop and it didn't fix the issue so maybe by chance it was faulty too....

 

[Matt9712]

I replaced the crankshaft sensor just as a sanity check..... didn't fix anything. Took some voltage readings but no luck finding wiring diagram so not exactly sure what I should be getting but here's the rundown.
Camshaft sensor 3 wires on it. G/R 5.07 v, G/Br 0.3v Pu/P 0v.
Ignition module and coil with key on all wires 0V
Ignition switch in OFF 12.44 on R
Ignition switch in ON 11.48 in R and Purple and purple/black and 0 on yellow/red.
Does that make sense to anyone? I would assume to have some voltage to ignition coil and or module

 

[Matt9712]

Ignition switch is exactly that and power under dash on switch... it looks like I turned switch off and got power to coil and ignition module but no still zero. I should have separated those lines in last post sorry

 

[alldodge]

Ignition switch in OFF 12.44 on R
Ignition switch in ON 11.48 in R and Purple

The 12.44 says your battery is only at 70% charge
Don't like the 11.48 V (battery is dead), that isn't good and if the computer is getting the same it may not work

Your battery fully charged?

 

[Matt9712]

Since I don't have a wiring diagram .... does anyone know the order of power? As in where does power come from to feed the coil and ignition module? My safety switch and neutral safety switch will kill all power and boat won't even crank so I think it must be a little further down stream