Leaking power steering actuator

[Bt Doctur]

Customer has one leaking ps fluid from the left side of the tube. Is there a parts breakdown, assembly diagram of these units .I find it hard to believe its not a serviceable unit . Some human had to put it together so it must be able to come apart

 

[Augoose]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...nder-leak-sx-m

This was on my SX-M with 5.0GL

 

[dannyual767]

I just fixed mine earlier this week. Here is my thread with pictures along with details of some of my roadblocks that I enountered:

 

[Insomnium]

I just joined the leaking steering club. I still want o run the boat this weekend as I had to do a repair on my carb. Should I take the PS pump belt off? Does it matter?

 

[dannyual767]

I just joined the leaking steering club. I still want o run the boat this weekend as I had to do a repair on my carb. Should I take the PS pump belt off? Does it matter?

I did just that since I really needed to use my boat as we had guests in town and we wanted to ski. That being said, it was a real bear trying to steer the boat straight when we gave it power to pull a skier out of the water. It was a lot of work for the driver, however we did get to ski.

You can do it but the steering will definitely be hard without the power assist. I thought that it would be like a manual steering car but it was much harder. I don't think it'll hurt anything in the boat if the power steering belt is removed.

 

[Insomnium]

I did just that since I really needed to use my boat as we had guests in town and we wanted to ski. That being said, it was a real bear trying to steer the boat straight when we gave it power to pull a skier out of the water. It was a lot of work for the driver, however we did get to ski.

You can do it but the steering will definitely be hard without the power assist. I thought that it would be like a manual steering car but it was much harder. I don't think it'll hurt anything in the boat if the power steering belt is removed.

Do I even need to pull the belt?

 

[Augoose]

Insumnium,
its always best to start a new thread with your question. But if you want to run the boat without the power steering pump running, then yes you will need to remove the belt. Personally I wouldn't run my boat without the assist - I'd rent one if family were coming in. Obviously consider that your steering is going to be much different now and reacting to obstacles might be difficult.

 

[dannyual767]

As Augoose said, yes you'll need to remove your power steering pump belt otherwise you'll continue to pump steering fluid out of the leaking actuator.

If your actuator isn't leaking that bad, you could just top off the reservoir/pump and enjoy the day with your family. Mine got to where it was leaking quite a bit. My power steering system would have been bone dry with the pump screaming within an hour or so.

If your boat is anything like mine, manual steering will not be fun! I too had family in town when I used my boat with the power steering pump belt removed. The visitors all had a good time but it was quite a chore for my wife and I driving the boat. Still, we were all out on the lake having a good time .

 

[dhardest]

Guess I'm also joining the power steering leak club ....... still need to troubleshoot to see exactly where the leak is coming from, and I'm hoping one of the actuator repair kits on eBay will do the trick. But as I get prepared ..... was curious if someone could volunteer a list of obvious small pieces parts that I'll need to get in addition to the repair kit. Things such as O-rings, cotter pins or what not. I see lots of advice and previous threads to use as resources.

Details:
2007 Volvo Penta 5.0 GXi-G, SX-A drive. Actuator is 3812269 (according to the VP parts list).

 

[Augoose]

Other than the rebuilt kit from ebay and a good cleaning, I used all original parts.

 

[dannyual767]

Like Auguoose, I reused everything....except for one cotter pin. My original was too mangled. I had plenty of big cotter pins on hand.

 

[dhardest]

OK Thanks. Hopefully can get this fixed without any major roadblocks. Heard it may be tough to get the cotter pins out and the bolts attaching it to the transom plate, due to age and accessibility, and mine is no different in terms of accessibility. I'll need to be a contortionist I think. But I'll update the post if I learn anything new that may help others or if I come into any unanswered questions.

 

[dhardest]

One question for those who have done this repair: When it comes time to re-install the ram into the actuator body, were you able to re-install it by hand and get it through the seals, or did you need a hydraulic press like was used by Dannyual767 in the following post?

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...uid-vp-5-0gl-e-in-a-2004-stingray-200lx/page2

Just looking to understand what I may be up against so I can make plans if the need arises.

 

[Augoose]

By hand. It was not hard at all.

 

[dannyual767]

I don't know why mine was so hard to get in. I used the correct size rod seal but there was no way the piston rod was going past that new seal. In desperation, I put in in my press just to see what would happen. I was sure that the whole thing would be ruined and I'd have to buy a brand new VP steering actuator. Surprisingly, it all worked out and doesn't leak. Hopefully yours will go in by hand like Augoose's.

 

[dhardest]

Follow up question for others who have rebuilt their actuator. I've removed my actuator and am in process of replacing the seals. Replaced both the rod seal and the wiper seal. The repair kit I bought also came with two pieces for the piston - a black o-ring (called an "energizer ring) and a red bi-directional ring that is supposed to fit on top of the energizer o-ring. The part I'm confused about is that I don't think my piston had the red bi-directional ring on it when I removed it. But I'm not 100% certain - but about 99%. (Reason I'm not positive is that I was pulling the piston out holding the unit above a small trash can due to all the steering fluid dripping out of the actuator. When the piston finally popped out, it popped into the trash can and I had to fish it out. It didn't have the red ring on it and I've searched the trash can and found no red ring or ring of any other color. )

So - my question is, do all actuators have this bi-directional ring? Would be good to get this answered before I go to all the trouble of re-assembling and re-installing, only to discover that fluid is bypassing the piston and reducing the power steering assist.

Thanks,
Dennis

 

[dannyual767]

Sorry, Dennis but I didn't replace anything having to do with the piston itself. I didn't buy the kit. I purchased my rod seal and wiper seal after finding them on the internet.

I remember seeing a ring around the piston but I couldn't tell you how many and/or what color they were.

 

[Augoose]

Can you post a pic of the seal you are talking about?

 

[dhardest]

No Title

Here is a pic showing the piston (not my pic but one I found elsewhere in this forum I think that looks just like mine), and the red arrow points to the o-ring that matches the one on my piston.

However, the repair kit came with a black o-ring like this (but maybe skinnier) in addition to a red flat ring that goes around it (called a bidirectional ring). I'm posting a picture of that as well. I am thinking that this energizer ring and bidirectional ring combination maybe is a more standard design for a trim cylinder (see the diagram). Anyway, any experience or advice is appreciated.

I decided to proceed and reassemble the actuator, using the original ring that was on my piston as both the white plastic of the piston and the original o-ring appeared to be just fine. But hearing other's experience would help reassure me that this was the right choice.