3.0 GS no spark

[gator fan josh]

I have a 2000 volvo 3.0gspefs and the engine dies whike out last year on the water and I haven't been able to get started since. I have narrowed it down to ignition because I get no/intermittent spark.

I have replaced coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and ignition module. The pickup coil ohms out fine per the service manual.

I checked my kill switch and it is functional as well as my neutral safety switch.

When I crank I get 9.5 to 10.5 volts on the ignition hot lead

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks

 

[gator fan josh]

Forgot to note that I verified firing sequence of 1-3-4-2 and that the rotor was pointing at the #1 post with engine at tdc

 

[alldodge]

narrowed it down to ignition because I get no/intermittent spark................ When I crank I get 9.5 to 10.5 volts on the ignition hot lead

You should be getting a full 12V, so this comes down to a bad connection, weak battery or similar.

Disconnect the gray wire from the tachometer and also the wires on the shift interrupter if there is one

 

[bruceb58]

There won't be a shift interrupter.

You need to measure the voltage where it goes into the coil. Is that where you measured?

 

[gator fan josh]

I will disconnect the tach and give it a shot, I was wondering if I should disconnect the keyswitch and tach at helm and just use jumper button to start engine.

I was measuring voltage on the purple "ignition" wire on the solenoid post. I also checked voltage at coil with keyswitch on, I'll disconnect could and crank and measure voltage there

 

[gator fan josh]

Disconnected ignition at keyswitch and tach.

Still no luck, I took lead off coil and put it close to block, I then cranked the motor and watched the spark. It looks like I only get 1 spark when the engine first turns over and then nothing. Tried adding my truck battery to see if the battery was weak and same result.

It seems bizzare to me to only get spark one time.

Any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

If your not getting 12V on the + side of the coil, trace backwards from there

 

[bruceb58]

If you are only getting one spark, its because the coil is getting charged through a really resistive connection. It then gets dumped that one time but can never fully charge up again.

If you jumpered your 12V from the battery right to the coil(probably difficult), it woudl likely work fine.

As Dodge said, work your way back from the coil. I would actually prefer you use a test light rather than a meter so the line is loaded. I have a load resistor that I made up to put in parallel with the pos and neg meter leads. You can do that too. Put in something like a 12 ohm 20W resistor and you will put on an amp of load.

 

[gator fan josh]

Since this boat has the delco EST ignition is it plausible that I have a bad ignition module that is not triggering the coil? I thought about jumping the pink wore out of the coil that gets 12v to the gray wire out of the module that goes into the coil to see if it is not being triggered.

At that point I guess the only point of failure would be the module or pickup coil correct?

Does anyone know what kind of resistance that pink wire should have? It has some type of resistor or something heat shrunk to it.

I get around 6.4 ohms connector to connector on pink wire and .4 ohms on gray wire.

 

[alldodge]

The last few pages in this link is testing and troubleshooting

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/bullet/90/90_15.pdf

 

[gator fan josh]

Update:
Picked up ignition module at local marine supply. Fired up first crank.

I guess module ordered online was faulty. Exactly why you should go through repubitle retailers like iboats