1991 Glastron with Volvo AQ131C motor, intermittent spark

[dan2744]

Hi guys, I live in Michigan and I put my boat up for the winter after a good summer with no issues. It was running great when I put it away. I went to start it yesterday and noticed that it will only fire every once in a while. I pulled a spark plug, turned the key and saw no spark and all my plugs were wet. I thought I had a fuel issue at first but now I am pretty sure I have an intermittent spark issue. I looked over ignition system and noticed a cracked distributor cap that looks like it was glued together at some point. Would a cracked distributor cause a problem like this or maybe a ground wire situation. Once I pulled the cap off it was crumbling away in pieces at the spot where it mounts. I ordered a new cap (super expensive) and hope it solves problem. I'll post results.

 

[Bondo]

and noticed a cracked distributor cap that looks like it was glued together at some point. Would a cracked distributor cause a problem like this or maybe a ground wire situation. Once I pulled the cap off it was crumbling away in pieces at the spot where it mounts.

Ayuh,.... That's a Problem alright,..... What do the points look like,..??

It's the Points that fire the system,...

 

[dan2744]

The points look fine, but I saw rust under the distributor, not a lot but some. I have done points before, they look fine, but that means nothing. I am sure moisture had gotten in there some time. It only sat from October to now and it was wrapped. I cant believe some jerk glued that together and did not tell me. They want a small fortune from the marina for a cap so I went to the auto store and found one off of a Volvo 245 motor, I get it tomorrow and then I will go from there. This is my first bad dist. cap.

 

[dennis461]

You may find the 'auto' dist cap is not interchangeable.
Also, occasionally, my capacitor hold down screw(on side if dist) will loosen or corrode causing intermittent spark.

Now, the dist cap is available on-line for around $50.
If that's all you need to get your boat running great, it's a bargain...right?


Did you rule out bad gas and carb problems?

 

[dan2744]

Not completely ruled out the bad gas, but I poured fresh gas in carb and got nothing. I order boat and auto dist. cap just to make sure. However, tge auto cap is available in screw down version now, the counter guy said I was the third guy on a month to buy one for a boat.

 

[Bondo]

The points look fine, but I saw rust under the distributor, not a lot but some. I have done points before, they look fine, but that means nothing. I am sure moisture had gotten in there some time. It only sat from October to now and it was wrapped.

Ayuh,.... Run a piece of sandpaper through 'em,....

They glaze over with corrosion over winter,... hence spuratic spark,....

 

[dennis461]

.... However, tge auto cap is available in screw down version now, the counter guy said I was the third guy on a month to buy one for a boat.

Part number please, and manufacturer. The dist cap Automotive screw down version I bought years ago was a different diameter body and did not work out.

 

[dan2744]

I know it's a bosch, it fits same distributor, #0237520004. If it doest fit, the other part will be here Monday.

 

[dan2744]

Well, I put the new cap on and it kind of fires every once in a while. It ended up being the clamp type and not screwed in. I had to vice grip one side so I never got a good test. The old one does not fire at all so I am hoping the cap was the problem. It acts like the timing is way off with the new cap. I am going to have to wait for the new one I guess. I did clean points and rotor, the rotor looked to be pretty dirty with carbon and I sanded the points. Thanks for the help guys I will keep you posted.

 

[dennis461]

Well, I put the new cap on and it kind of fires every once in a while. It ended up being the clamp type and not screwed in. I had to vice grip one side so I never got a good test. The old one does not fire at all so I am hoping the cap was the problem. It acts like the timing is way off with the new cap. I am going to have to wait for the new one I guess. I did clean points and rotor, the rotor looked to be pretty dirty with carbon and I sanded the points. Thanks for the help guys I will keep you posted.

Let's rethink a little.
Boat ran OK with old glued up dist cap, more likely points or condenser or plug wires.

The clamp-on cap has the four plug wire posts rotated slightly as compared to the screw on cap.
Compare side by side to see what I mean.

If you tried using the cap with the two flat spots (clamping notches) lined up with the dist screw holes, then your rotor was too far away from the plug wire post when coil fired.

If interested, I can post a picture if an adapter I used for a couple of years while I saved up for a real distributor cap.

 

[dan2744]

I have a real dist. cap on the way but I am interested in your fix? Thanks for the response guys.

 

[dan2744]

I will try rotating it today, its gonna be 80 degrees today and I wanna go boating.

 

[dan2744]

New cap on, hot side battery cable is very hot and smoking, melting. Motor seems to be turning over to slow to start. Used a brand new battery, same result. I think the starter gear has not retracted and is in flywheel. It's not making a weird noise or anything but it's turning over quiet and slow. I'm gonna jump starter with direct voltage and check to see if it's bad. I'm guessing I need to clean some connections. Why would red battery lead to solenoid be hot and smoking? Ground isn't hot at all.

 

[dan2744]

Broken timing belt! Dang it! How in the heck do I change this? Is it hard? I am pretty sure I found my problem.

 

[PiratePast40]

A google search comes up with quite a few links. Luckily, those are non-interference engines so the engine isn't completely hosed. It's relatively simple but you do need to remove some interference and the manual is pretty straight forward. Luckily, the belt and tensioner are available at NAPA and other auto parts stores.

Be careful when taking out the spark plugs. Pressure has most likely bled off through the rings, but be careful anyway. If you're lucky, the starter may still be salvageable. Might be best to have a local shop check it for you. If it's shot, the Chicom gear reduction starters are pretty cheap.

 

[dan2744]

Thanks pirat40, which chicom gear reduction starter should I get? What tensioner is the auto version?

 

[PiratePast40]

I would first see if the starter still works. If not, you can take it to a local shop to have them check it out. Look here on iboats for a replacement, or just search for a new one on ebay. The aq 131 is the Volvo B230 block, so any belt and tensioner for that engine will work. Again, check the iboats store first. NAPA carries Sierra parts so a local store may have them in stock. If not, check other parts stores if you want to stay local. Google is your friend here. Also, make sure you go through the manual to determine what other parts you will need before you get the job started. It's frustrating to get to the part about putting things back together and discover that you need to replace gaskets and o-rings that you hadn't thought about.

Be aware that electrical and fuel parts for boats are usually different than those for automotive applications. The issue is fire and explosion so don't try to swap those versions.

 

[dan2744]

Thanks, I have the belt on already, I put the b230 belt on that I got at parts store. After installing the belt I cranked it over by hand and the lines kept hitting their spots so I think I'm gonna start reassembling. Us the firing order 1342? 1 plug at mark and then go clockwise?

 

[PiratePast40]

Many of your answers are in the manual.

 

[dennis461]

Many of your answers are in the manual.

Except for firing order. The manual has everything except it.
So I keep the picture here with my boat registration.
http://repairguide.autozone.com/zne...0c152/80/06/3f/29//small/0900c15280063f29.jpg