Rebuilding the 4.3GL in my 1998 Sunbird 200SL

[Jprevat]

Hey Guys,

I was on here a while back trying to figure out how to swap in a used S10 Blazer engine into my Sunbird. I had one all lined up but I decided I would rather completely rebuild a 4.3 short block and have zero hours on the timer.

I figured I would make a new thread about putting it all back together and get some help from yall along the way.

So here I am with my first question, I just pulled my outdrive and I have some water In the drive shaft bellow. Its not too much but enough to be dingy. It didnt get past the o-rings on the shaft toward the gimbal and my u-joints are still nice and tight so no harm there.

Will replacing my driveshaft bellow fix this problem? Is the gasket around the water inlet the only one I need to reattach the lower unit? Is there any reason at all why the previous owner used silicone around the mating surfaces?

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would also replace the input shaft seal.

Yes, replacing bellows will help

 

[Jprevat]

Thank you for chiming in. Ill see If I cant come up with some part numbers. It seems I havent been able to find them on iboats.com yet.

 

[Jprevat]

Ok so I am working on pulling my 4.3 and was curious of any tips or tricks. Should I drop the power steering pump with the lines attached to the ram to avoid contamination or should I do as my Seloc manual tells me and unhook the metal connectors at the ram? I am also thinking of dropping the raw water pump to avoid damage and removing the exhaust manifolds to better clear the lip out back. I have thought of pulling the intake as well but im thinking if i rig the chains right ill be able to clear the carb. Are these good ideas or am i missing something.

 

[Jprevat]

Ok guys, It took me a little time but I have pulled the old motor and stripped it to the short block. Sure enough, the number one cylinder was full of water so the head on that side has a little surface rust. I am taking both heads in to get them refreshed today so I am hoping for a close as can be to new motor.

What would yall recommend as far as break in on a 4.3 GL? I have seen everything from 13-20 hours and all different recommendations on throttle position. So needless to say I am a little confused.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[bruceb58]

Make sure you buy new exhaust manifolds.

 

[Lou C]

Make sure the machine shop checks them for cracks, mine had cracks in the center cyls in the exhaust ports. There was also water in #1 cyl but it came from a blown head gasket.

 

[Sunken Ship]

Check the manuals for the break-in period. It was less than xxxx RPMS for so many hours. It was very hard for me to do :lol: (keep under certain RPMs). Are you going to have the block bored, new pistons, cam, bearings, oil pump etc.? How bad was the ring groove?

 

[Sunken Ship]

Just ran across this today from the manual, page 14, 4.3GL

 

[Jprevat]

The heads were checked for cracks, cleaned up, and 2 valves were replaced. I have new manifolds waiting to go on too.

I am picking up my new lifters, timing cover, and oil pump today so I am getting really close.

Thank you for taking the time to post the correct break-in procedure Sunken Ship! That doesn't look anything like the other ones I have found.

 

[Jprevat]

Quick question guys. I have almost finished with my engine and need to get my drive bolted back up. I replaced the bellows and have a new water inlet o-ring on the way for tomorrow. My problem is that I dont understand how the metal on metal surfaces there keep water form getting into the drive shaft. It looks like the previous owner sealed it up with silicone. Was he right in doing so?

 

[bruceb58]

It looks like the previous owner sealed it up with silicone. Was he right in doing so?

No..the nose of the drive pushes up against the drive bellows to make the seal. Put some grease on that bellows there and that's all you need to do.

 

[Jprevat]

No..the nose of the drive pushes up against the drive bellows to make the seal. Put some grease on that bellows there and that's all you need to do.

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. I was hoping that was the correct direction I needed to go.

I think thats why there was a little water in the bellows from the PO. I dont think he greased the bellows and it peeled up part of the lip so it didnt seal correctly.

Im so close to getting this thing in the water now and watching all these boats come by on the river is killing me. Hopefully one more week.

 

[Jprevat]

No Title

I finally have some pictures. So yall dont think im building a ghost boat.

 

[bruceb58]

You used OEM bellows right?

 

[Jprevat]

You used OEM bellows right?

I did. As per advice I received on this forum.:thumb:

 

[Jprevat]

Hey guys, I have another question and I hope yall can help me out. Do any of yall know where I can find new flywheel studs? They look like they may be about 1.5" sticking out of the rear of the crank from what I can tell. Are they a volvo specific part?

 

[Bondo]

Are they a volvo specific part?

Nope,... Just plain ole machine grade studs, 3/8" I think, they'll be coarse on 1 end, fine thread the other,..

Auto parts store, machine shops, quality bolt store, better hardware store,... maybe even a big box store,...

 

[Jprevat]

Nevermind. I went diagram surfing and bought Volvo Penta direct.

 

[Jprevat]

Nope,... Just plain ole machine grade studs, 3/8" I think, they'll be coarse on 1 end, fine thread the other,..

Auto parts store, machine shops, quality bolt store, better hardware store,... maybe even a big box store,...

LOL well I wish I would have seen this earlier. I just went ahead and ordered from volvo. I couldnt get any of them out of the old crank so I had no clue the threads were even different.