2004 4.3L GXI-E Maintenance questions

[GMTK]

Got a quote from the local dealer of $1600 to do some general maintenance, I think the quote is high but I'm in a one horse town. I'm hoping to do most of these myself but was looking for a little guidance and tips from the pros. I'm pretty handy but this is my first inboard.

Boat is a 2004 Hurricane SD187 with a 4.3L Volvo GXI-E. Engine has 106 hours on it.

I have two current issues on the boat I'm looking for guidance on - a small leak on the oil inlet above the oil filter and some sort of black caulk/sealant around the input hose to the raw water pump.

1. On the oil leak - I put a wrench on it to snug it up and it's very snug. Leak is minimal but it is a leak. No spatter just a very small leak. Any ideas on if I should fix this and if so, how? (My guess is some sort of internal seal is bad?)

2. I'm going to change the impeller and the manual says to remove the raw water pump inlet hose, but there is some sort of black sealant/goo/caulk where I'm guessing there was a leak and someone tried to seal it up. Thought on this? I know the manual says to remove that hose to change the impeller but didn't know if it was possible to change the impeller without removing those hoses.

Maintenance:
My plan is to change the gear oil, motor oil, impeller, fuel filter and oil filter. Also ordered some power steering fluid to make sure it's properly filled.

For the oil, the past owner put in Royal Purple high performance marine motor oil, synthetic, 10w-30. Is this acceptable? The manual says SAE 30, 20w-50 or 15w-50. I'm in south Texas so low temps are not an issue.

On the impeller installation, is there a gasket or do I use RTV to connect the outer housing back to the main pump assembly? I know there is an inner o-ring but I would think a metal to metal surface would need a gasket or sealant.

Thanks to all in advance for the advice and thoughts.

 

[Fishhead-1]

As far as the oil leak I would remove and inspect that fitting on the tapered side on both sides for nicks or scratches and make sure it's not coming from threads into filter housing. The goo on raw pump is the rubber piece that slides over the bracket to stabilize the pump from spin of movement. Remove bracket clean and replace while you have pump off.

 

[Fishhead-1]

Is the $1600 quote for pulling drive, greasing splines, replacing boots, propshaft grease, alignment check or any other work needed? Also no sealant on raw pump, replace o ring and good to go.

 

[GMTK]

$1600 was for:

Oil change and suppplies
Impeller change and supplies
Gear oil change and supplies
Fuel filter change and supplies

 

[further]

Damn! $1600? I'm in the wrong business lol. I see you've got a manual.... Should be able to handle all that on your own with some basic knowledge and this great resource. Folks on here will definitely help you out and guide you in the right direction.

 

[bajaunderground]

No Title

Keep in mind to move those oil lines very little and very gingerly...those lines use a barbed compression set-up and are notorious for failure (see attached pic of where). I had mine blow off the barbed fitting last year and within about 5 secs my whole engine compartment was covered in oil. My buddy had to tow me back to the dock as ~4 quarts had sprayed out in that time...

My repair was cut clamped/compression fitting off and use two hose clamps to re-secure the lines. Replace the lines if they look compromised?

 

[lg260ss]

Keep in mind to move those oil lines very little and very gingerly...those lines use a barbed compression set-up and are notorious for failure (see attached pic of where). I had mine blow off the barbed fitting last year and within about 5 secs my whole engine compartment was covered in oil. My buddy had to tow me back to the dock as ~4 quarts had sprayed out in that time...

My repair was cut clamped/compression fitting off and use two hose clamps to re-secure the lines. Replace the lines if they look compromised?

This is very true. Volvo had a lot of issues with failing oil hoses in 2003-2004. I had a 2003 four winns that a hose failed on back in 2005. Made a huge mess, luckily Volvo admitted they had an issue and cleaned it up and replaced them for free.
If the op has this style hose I would suggest replacing them with the standard clamp style hoses.

 

[Lou C]

That price is very high for the work done.
The leak in the remote mount hoses is one reason why I never bothered to put in a remote oil filter mount on my engine. I did not trust thrm 100%. On some boats the standard filter mounting is a bear to reach. On mine I can get at it without too much trouble.

 

[bajaunderground]

That price is very high for the work done.
The leak in the remote mount hoses is one reason why I never bothered to put in a remote oil filter mount on my engine. I did not trust them 100%. On some boats the standard filter mounting is a bear to reach. On mine I can get at it without too much trouble.

That was the advice from my boat mechanic, he suggested I DC the remote filter as the GM location is very, very open and readily accessible.

 

[NoExcuses]

Agree with other posters on price, 7-8 years ago I paid $700 for winterizing and changing fluids/filters on TWO 5.0 liter GXi-E engines from a traveling mechanic. I'm to cheap to even pay that so I do it myself now. As others have said, your oil line remote lines look like the older type that will fail catastrophically on your Memorial Day weekend causing a huge mess in your engine compartment. The crimps on the replacement hoses are very beefy compared to the ones currently on your engine. Mine failed about 3 years ago with around 600 hours.