Volvo sx-a drive shift delay with clunk / inconsistent forward shifts

travelon1979

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
15
I have a 2010 Volvo gi-j300 with Sx-a outdrive.

Purchased boat used with 74 hours.
Was running flawlessly until August when I went on max rpm (hit 4800 rpm) run (102 hours) to help determine which prop size I need when converting to a 4-blade.

I noticed immediately after the max rpm run the shift characteristics had changed. I'm getting inconsistent forward shifts and premature reverse shifts. Sometimes when shifting to the first detent it will shift as its supposed to. Sometimes it will delay for seconds and up to 20 seconds or so before smoothly shifting. I can push past the first detent and will sometimes kick it into gear smoothly. Other times it will Rev up a bit before shifting resulting in a clunk. It is inconsistent but more often than not there is a delay. It will also prematurely shift out of gear when throttling back. When shifting into reverse it shifts immediately upon pulling back and has a noticeable clunk. Before the issues started it wouldn't shift into reverse until I reached the first detent before the throttle kicked in.

I've read enough to know it could be: bad or mis-adjusted shift cable, wrong lube or overfilled, water intrusion in lube, bad shifter assembly, cone clutch, or something with the "shift shaft assembly".

My dealer didn't seem very knowledgeable in how to problem shoot this but was convincing that he'd be very shocked a volvo drive with only 100 hours would have a bad cone clutch. Previous owner had all the service documents etc and I had all the fluids changed when I purchased the boat. It does look like the drive was dinged pretty hard at one point.

Could a object strike cause the cone to have issues but not damage the lower gear set?

I had the (volvo certified tech) service center change the shift cable as it was a bit tight/rough when I took ownership. Thought maybe when I mashed the throttle forward something slipped. Went with a teleflex xtreme. The shift movement is much smoother but the shift delays/inconsistencies did not improve.

New cable adjustment: It appears I'm getting full travel when shifting into forward or reverse so its strange that it shifts so quick into reverse. Assuming the dealer knows how to fine tune a shift cable this should not be the problem.

Prop spin test: Manually shifted in to drive and spun the prop to check for play when trying to spin in reverse. Sometimes it locks immediately, sometimes it will take full rotation before the clutch grabs, and sometimes it won't grab at all. When in reverse it has some play but not as much but still seems a bit loose as other posters on iboats said it should grab immediately within a 1/4" of movement. This alone leads me to believe it is an issue with the cone clutch or shift shaft assembly.

Shifter adjustment: dealer inspected but not sure they really knew what to look for in a faulty shift control.

Gear lube looks good and dealer says they use volvo full syn lube. I pulled the plug and it seemed to be a bit over filled so let it drain down a bit till it stopped trickling out the side vent. Checked dip stick and all good. Problem still persists so not related to improper fill level.

I have not changed the lube yet but can only trust the dealer uses the volvo gear lube. They sell it on their shelf.

I'm going to take to another volvo service center to see what they come up with. Beyond what I've listed above does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be before shelling out a cool $2k to replace the cone clutch. I've read so many posts on different websites about shift delay /clunk symptoms and anytime a cone clutch was the problem the boat had atleast 400+ hours but usually many more. Warranty ended literally 6 months prior to the problem starting. I'd hate to repair the cone only to find its something else. I'd end up divorced :)

Anyway to problem shoot the shift shaft assembly?
Could a shim worked loose?
Seems convenient it happened right after a high rpm speed run.
I'm ultra sensitive / OCD listening or feeling any changes to the boat so feel if this was a gradual problem I would have noticed. It literally went from running perfect to not after the high speed run.

Any and all input would be greatly appreciated!
 
Last edited:

Jammer864

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 20, 2011
Messages
149
I would next check the shift shaft shimming. The drive does not have to be disassembled but the plastic cover over the shift shaft assembly does need to be removed. I dont have access to the procedure right now but will in a few days. You may find it on here somewhere by searching for it. Checking and shimming requires less than a half hour and you only need a feeler gauge and some sealant.
 

mikeneal

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 28, 2004
Messages
710
When you did the manual shift test I assume the rear cover was removed and you moved the linkage the full travel? If so it sounds like it has to be the done is glazed, that's the only option with that test IMO amuature opinion.
 

travelon1979

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
15
Thanks for the feedback! Took it to a different service center who by far the best marine service center I have ever dealt with. They actually reached out to Volvo before working on the boat as they agree at 100 hours the cone clutch should not have issues. Here are the steps they took before concluding the cone clutch needed changed.

​- Changed gear lube and lowered level to the half way mark on the dipstick (per Volvo recommendation)
​- Went through the adjustment process for the new Teleflex Xtreme cable I had installed by another dealer. (all good)
​- Checked and greased up the Volvo shifter assembly at the helm. (all good)
​- Checked the shift shaft assembly (all in spec)

​After going through all this I was comfortable having them change the cone clutch. They changed and took it on a test run and said it is shifting perfectly. The diagnostic process and cone replacement set me back $720 which I was pleasantly surprised with. I spent another $220 at the other dealer having the shift cable changed.

​One thing to point that tricked both dealers into thinking it was not the cone clutch is:

- The first dealer only put the put the prop in a tub of water. They said the prop was shifting once the shifter was engaged so didn't think it was the cone clutch so had me change the shift cable which I was going to do anyway. I took the boat out and had the same shift issue.

​-Second dealer lake tested the boat, kind of. They only put it into gear while tied up to the dock with no acceleration attempt. They also reported that shifted properly and was ready to give it back to me. I requested they test drive the boat before I come to pick it up. They experienced the same issues I have.

​Anyone else that has these problems and trying to problem solve the prop will spin if the cone is worn but won't be fully engage. Only when you go to truly accelerate under a load will it finally engage and clunk. I was a bit surprised both dealers didn't understand this concept when trying to problem shoot a cone clutch. It may have something to do with these cone clutches rarely ever go bad especially so soon.

I'm nervous something is amiss in the drive that will cause the new cone to go bad in short order. What is interesting is I've read a hundred times on different forums that a mis-adjusted shift cable can cause a clone to wear faster but the Volvo rep claims this is very highly unlikely due to how it engages.

​My boat is out of warranty. I also worked with Volvo directly myself in regards to the premature cone clutch failure. I was always very courteous and nice. Although they agreed it is very rare for the cone to fail so soon they told me to go pound sand when I asked if they would at least supply the parts and I pay labor. I was a little disappointed in this but I guess rules are rules as it relates to warranty and service. If I was the original owner I think they would have been more willing to work with me as they said you never know how the previous owner drove (shifted the boat)

​The Volvo rep says he believes any drive that would have cone issues this early were probably terrible captains. Citing specifically that consistent shifting into forward and reverse while boat is in motion can cause clutch damage over time.

​Hope this helps anyone else having issues.
 

Shaper79

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Great write up on the issue and checks. I took mine out yesterday after dewinterizing and all seemed good. But for a lil shift delay going from neutral to forward and neutral to reverse and it would raise the rpms a bit then a lil Clunk. But only Somthimes and more often is I had the wheel turned all the way one way or the other. I checked the shift linkage in the outdrive but it was pretty much in spec with very lil slop I did add another washer to tighten it up a bit. And the out drive oil is only 3/4 up the way on the stick! I was going to ask in iboats here if there is a way to check for adjustments for the shift cable at the remote control. And "sometimes " the idle would hangs about 1200rpm when when going back to neutral, so I'm thinking the throttle cable needs a bit of adjustment also. I'm guessing backing the nut off to give it more free play and slack. Idk
 

skydiveD30571

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
1,042
And "sometimes " the idle would hangs about 1200rpm when when going back to neutral, so I'm thinking the throttle cable needs a bit of adjustment also. I'm guessing backing the nut off to give it more free play and slack. Idk

You've got that right. Over time and use the throttle cable develops some slack, and once you apply throttle then bring it back to neutral, the throttle cable can't apply enough pressure to close the throttle back to idle. Pretty simple adjustment.
 

Shaper79

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Thx for the confirming my thoughts on the throttle cable. Do you guys know anything about the shift cable adjustment on the remote control part. It looks good at the outdrive. Thx. To the OP for a good thread on this weird shifts
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,454
Thx for the confirming my thoughts on the throttle cable. Do you guys know anything about the shift cable adjustment on the remote control part. It looks good at the outdrive. Thx. To the OP for a good thread on this weird shifts
If you have it adjusted at the outdrive, there is nothing more you can do at the control. In fact, there should never be anything done at the control since there is little to no adjustment range there.
 

Shaper79

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Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Ho. Thanks for coming back on that Bruce, I was contemplating dabbling with the control a bit but. I don't want to open a can of worms. I did separate the outdrive over the winter to grease gimble and u joints and bellow inspection and this was the second time I done it and to my careful and OCD habits I'm sure I put everything back to spec. I may take the nut off the cable threads and see if the is any more slack by gently pulling on it with some needle nose plyiers , then reinstall the nut and washers. The only thing I did was add one more very slim whaser to take up any slop. I put the muffs on. And it shifted on "Q ". I need to adjust the throttle cable very slightly. Taking a bit of slack out. It is righty tightly - lefty loosely still applies in this task ' corrrect?? Ho and I did reach around and spray the guts side of the remote with some w-40. Just in case it might need done e lube. I hope that's not a NO No ?? Thx for all the help.
 

Sparkinator

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Aug 15, 2009
Messages
423
My shifting has been bad on 2 occasions. I had a worn shift cable (15 years old). Replaced it and ran great. Second time, the keeper that anchors the shift cable shield came loose at the drive and was allowing the entire cable to move. I secured it and haven't had any more issues.
 

Shaper79

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Yea. I'm going to fool with it a bit tomorrow. It may be getting to the point of a new shift cable any way.
 

Shaper79

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Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Ok. This what I found. And after a test in the muffs all seems fine. I'll start with the high intermittently high idle issue. Seems that over time some slop worked it's way in to the cable, so all I Did was remove the tiny carter pin and washer that keeps the throttle cable secure to the throttle body stud. But I left the cable attached to the TB stud, then with the correct tiny wrench I turned the nut clock wise that's in the throttle cable and it broke the nut free , then I unhooked the cable from the TB stud and turned the cable attachment eye counterclockwise about three full turns to extend it , while making sure the TB leaver and spring was in good working order and fully forward in the idle position, the. Simple reattached all in same order. And lubed ,..... in tho the delay shifts from neutral to forward and neutral to reverse I simply recheck how I installed the cable and nut to the shift leaver on the outdrive behind the cover. And it seems ..., after to my winter PM greasing gimbal and u-joints , bellow inspecting.. I did not fully have the shifter in absolute neutral when reconnecting the shift cable. I disconnected the shift assembly made sure cable was free and not sticking, made absolutely sure she was in neutral the reassembled. The nut this time ended up near the back of the threads while I initially had it set in about the middle of the the threads. And I also added an extra thin washer to take up any slop. Then tested on muffs all was normal. Fingers are crossed for the lake test in a few weeks. This may help someone else.
 

JustJason

Vice Admiral
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
5,319
Check your idle speed with the boat in the water and in forward gear. If the idle speed is to low that will cause your delay in shifting. Idle speed would naturally be higher when running on the trailer, so it will shift into gear faster. In any event, if the idle speed is low, there is going to be a delay when trying to shift into gear.
 

Shaper79

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2016
Messages
233
Yes. I'll be making sure I have that little wrench with me on the lake. Should be about 600 rpms correct
 

skydiveD30571

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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
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It depends on the model, and your manual will state the target RPM range, but yes 600rpm while engaged in forward gear with idle power should be good. Generally there's about a 75rpm difference between unloaded (on trailer, out of water) and loaded (in water) idle rpm.
 
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