DP-SM Outdrive Install - Something Binding

[Glevans1]

After changing out my bellows and gimbal bearing, I am having trouble tightening the Outdrive to the housing. I was able to slide the leg on far enough to have a few threads showing, but it seemed to bind up there. I began tightening down the new nylock nuts, but it just seems to be that there is too much resistance. I don't want to force it any more than I already have so I loosened off the nuts and will remove leg to check things out more closely tomorrow. My alignment bar slid in all the way nice and easy, so I'm wondering what can be wrong. I know I should be able to hand slide the leg all the way in once the spline is lined up. Is it possible for the bearing gimbal to be slightly "cocked" so that the shaft is binding? I would think that it would straighten itself out once the shaft continued moving through it. I believe I have followed all the procedures listed in my shop manual so I'm kinda stumped. Any ideas?

 

[Fun Times]

Usually you have to use the alignment bar to ensure the new bearing is not slightly turned/out of alignment with the engine coupler.

Eye ball and if needed slightly tap on the bar up, down, side to side as you are inserting the bar towards the coupler to help get into the coupler...Once the bar is in the coupler, tap on the bar to ensure all alignment is good... The drive will not necessarily align the bearing as you insert the drive input shaft as the U-joints may become offset slightly following the angle of the bearing.

Though they are showing Mercruiser units, the how to info covering engine alignment in the following link is the same concept as your Volvo SM drive. All the how to videos of checking engine alignment is a must watch... http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...es-outdrives/455000-engine-alignment-how-to-s

Also be sure no old dried up grease is packed in to coupler as that could prevent the shaft from going in easily.

The steering/bell housing has to be perfectly straight to reinstall the drive easier as well.

Did you oil the O-rings on the shaft? They could be causing to much friction as the O-rings slide in to the bearing.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If you changed the O-rings.
​The groove they fit in can get grease under the o-ring.
It needs to be cleaned and the grease added on top of the ring.
​Under the o-ring it lifts the o-ring and the shaft can "lock" in place and need a BFH to make it go in.

 

[jharvey1984]

I had the same problem when I replaced my gimbal bearing. Put motor oil on the new orings, make sure no grease on driveshaft except for on splines and I also rubbed some motor oil on the inside race of the gimbal bearing. Worked like a charm and slid right in after that.

 

[BRICH1260]

Put your unit in gear prior to install and slowly rotate the prop shaft which rotates the drive shaft as you push it back in. Sometimes the splines may not line up exactly with the coupler splines.A slight rotation can sometimes help.

 

[dypcdiver]

Did you locate your new bellows correctly over the lip?

 

[Glevans1]

Update. I removed the leg to try some of your suggestions. Used the alignment bar to ensure the gimbal bearing was set correctly then rechecked ease of installation into the coupler. I wouldn't say it slid in effortlessly, but did go in with a two finger push. Made sure no grease near O-rings and used motor oil to lubricate. I noticed the bell housing wasn't exactly straight on, so corrected that. Pushed the leg back into position and was able to get it within half an inch or so of mating the surfaces. It was still a little harder to tighten down than I would have liked, but all in all, I didn't have to use excessive pressure on the nuts. I didn't see the post about removing grease from the shaft except for the splines until later. Pretty sure I had some grease further up the shaft than the splines. Anyhow, many thanks to you all for the information provided. Tested the leg in my driveway and everything seems to be working and sounding correct.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The grease ON the shaft shouldn't be a problem.
The grease under the o-ring would be a problem.
​Grease stays in place a lot longer than oil.

 

[Glevans1]

Final update. Thought I would post this in case someone else can benefit from it. Although I thought I had this problem fixed, turns out I would have to pull the drive one more time to finally get it right. The answer was so simple that it's a little embarrassing to mention. When installing the gimbal bearing I didn't remove the bellows as it was in good shape (new in late 2015) and I thought I could save a little time. I didn't have a large enough socket or bearing installation tool so I used a long brass drift and tapped it in around the bearing edges. Problem was, I didn't set the bearing all the way in. It became cocked inside the channel and I couldn't see in there enough to know that. It felt like it was seated and wasn't moving any further so I stopped. When I put everything back together the U joints remained slightly cocked as the input shaft wasn't into the coupler all the way. Worked OK in the driveway but I didn't try turning the wheel while it was in gear. After launching, as soon as I tried a turn, the u joints started knocking. Pulled the boat again, removed drive and bellows and immediately could see the problem. I pulled the bearing with a slide hammer and re-installed correctly with a borrowed large socket. Everything looks, sounds and drives good now so hopefully I'm good for awhile.

 

[bruceb58]

Next time, throw the gimbal baring in the freezer for a few hours. Makes driving it in easier.