Replacement Engine

[Jprevat]

My 1997 4.3 GL has a cracked block on the inner water jacket that slowly seeps water into the oil but only above 30 mph. I dont have the funds for a reman engine at the moment but would really like to be able to have the boat water worthy. My neighbor has a 1996 4x4 blazer with the 4.3 vortec in it that he wants to part out.

My thoughts were maybe I could take this engine and keep my boat on the water for a budget while I build a new 4.3 for it. I dont want to rush anything on building an engine so I thought this would be a good way to be able to take my time on it and do it right.

My questions are, will this engine work in place of my 4.3 after swapping my marine specific parts over? Will I need to make any modifications to it so that it will work? (ie: change flywheel, different exhaust studs)

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Scott Danforth]

your neighbors motor would be just fine.

pull the motor, throw away the intake manifold, all the brackets, flex plate, etc. and strip it down to a short block. take the heads in for a refresh (about $200 for the pair) install brass core plugs in the block. install the marine head gaskets, install the reconditioned heads then move over the water pump, all brackets, all pulleys, flywheel starter, alternator and ignition from your marine engine

you will need to test your exhaust manifolds and elbows (I would buy new)

reinstall and align

have you pressure tested your existing motor to confirm a crack? pressure and leakdown test?

 

[bruceb58]

You sure it's not just a crack in the intake manifold?

 

[Jprevat]

Thank you for all of the information. I really wasnt sure about the flex plate so I can go ahead and pull my current engine and strip it to the block.

I had already bought new exhaust manifolds and elbows as the originals were showing cracks so I'm thinking I can just reuse the newer ones.

I also pulled my intake on the current motor to check the block behind the pushrods and i have two cracks in the water jackets on cylinders 4 & 5. One crack looks like it tails all the way up to the mating surface for the head.

Im not sure the previous owner knew what winterizing was to be honest.

Are there any tips or tricks for getting the motor aligned once I am installing it back into the boat?

 

[shaw520]

you will need an alignment tool,...get the motor back in place and shim till align. tool inserts with ease

 

[Jprevat]

Thank you sir. They dont look all that bad to use.

Just so I know definitively, I will be pulling the SX outdrive before pulling the motor and with it will need to be in nuetral to do so?

 

[Jprevat]

You sure it's not just a crack in the intake manifold?

There was a crack there too so I picked up a new one and put it in place just to see if I could run some block sealer through it and hopefully get lucky. I didnt get lucky. lol

 

[bruceb58]

There was a crack there too so I picked up a new one and put it in place just to see if I could run some block sealer through it and hopefully get lucky. I didnt get lucky. lol

Block sealers are a waste of time. Don't even see how they could possibly work at all on a raw water cooled engine.

 

[Jprevat]

The one I tried was supposed to be a permanent fix after it had run through there at operating temperature. I rigged up a water circulation tank with a bilge pump and it did help but once I tried cruising at higher rpms I was seeing the same mixing problem again.

 

[Fun Times]

I will be pulling the SX outdrive before pulling the motor and with it will need to be in neutral to do so?

What gear you're in don't matter on the Volvo SX.

Pull the back upper cover off and you will see a cable clipped to the lower shifting mechanism with a brass fitting. You can move the shifter to a gear so the brass fitting is easier to get at as it moves towards you vs sitting inside the housing....< If you put it in the wrong gear at first, the fitting will go inside the housing deeper is all. This video may help somewhat too but you don't have to do anything to the water hose for removing the drive like the guy in the video mentions. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...7D&FORM=VRDGAR

Edit: Forgot to mention that you will need to remove the little brass fitting off of the cable before sliding the drive off the transom assembly. If reusing the old cable, mark where the fitting rests now before it's removal.

 

[Jprevat]

What gear you're in don't matter on the Volvo SX.

Pull the back upper cover off and you will see a cable clipped to the lower shifting mechanism with a brass fitting. You can move the shifter to a gear so the brass fitting is easier to get at as it moves towards you vs sitting inside the housing....< If you put it in the wrong gear at first, the fitting will go inside the housing deeper is all. This video may help somewhat too but you don't have to do anything to the water hose for removing the drive like the guy in the video mentions. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...7D&FORM=VRDGAR

Edit: Forgot to mention that you will need to remove the little brass fitting off of the cable before sliding the drive off the transom assembly. If reusing the old cable, mark where the fitting rests now before it's removal.

Thank you so much for that. I will gladly accept any and all help so I can get this right the first go round.

 

[Scott Danforth]

take cell phone pictures of everything that you are disassembling. take pictures from 3 different angles as well.

 

[Jprevat]

I usually take pictures of everything as I disassemble so I have a reverse step by step guide for putting it back together. It looks like ill be able to pick it up this week so im hoping to get the lower unit off and start getting the motor ready to pull here soon.

 

[Jprevat]

Is this the correct gasket kit I will need to button the outdrive back up? Should I go ahead and do the bellows and gimbal bearing? I dont have any problems with mine but thought I should ask.

 

[bruceb58]

It is not. That is for an OMC. All you need is the oblong O-ring that is used for the water passage. The other 2 go on the driveshaft. I replace those rarely.

 

[Jprevat]

It is not. That is for an OMC. All you need is the oblong O-ring that is used for the water passage. The other 2 go on the driveshaft. I replace those rarely.

Thank you very much. I'll see what I can find on here rather than trusting amazon to find it.

I guess I should go ahead and pick up an alignment tool and learn how to use it as well.

 

[Fun Times]

Thank you very much. I'll see what I can find on here rather than trusting amazon to find it.

I guess I should go ahead and pick up an alignment tool and learn how to use it as well.

Start here with this link and fully work your way through the other link posted about engine alignment. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...3#post10300783

To find your correct Engine, Drive and Transom Shield parts catalogs, it would be best to find the full model number and/or serial number of each component then post them here. http://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/...enta/help.html

 

[Jprevat]

Start here with this link and fully work your way through the other link posted about engine alignment. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...3#post10300783

To find your correct Engine, Drive and Transom Shield parts catalogs, it would be best to find the full model number and/or serial number of each component then post them here. http://www.volvopentastore.com/mall/...enta/help.html

Thank you sir. I really appreciate it.

 

[Jprevat]

Ok I here is what I have so far. The decal on my cylinder head reads that I have a Model: 43GLPKLD engine Serial # :101204537 (as best I can see it) and the Gimbal housing (plaque on top and inside transom product # : 3868413 and Serial # : T0379241. Ill look on my outdrive when I make it back home and see what I can find on it.

 

[bruceb58]

Model: 43GLPKLD

You likely have 2 letters backwards. Should probably be 43GLPLKD

Basically, you have an "LK" model.