Winterization

[magre17]

How do I winterize My 2001 Glastron 185GX has a 4.3L fuel injected Volvo Penta engine. it will be in a heated garage all winter but I want to make sure I get all the water out. never had a inboard/outboard before.

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard

for a raw water cooled motor

change engine oil and filter
change gear oil in outdrive
remove prop(s) and grease shaft
inspect outdrive seals
Inspect bellows (every few years replace)
drain the 5 plugs (1 on each side of the motor, one on each exhaust manifold, and the one in the intake manifold by the thermostat housing) prod each drain port to ensure its not blocked.
drain the large hose from the water pump to the thermostat housing
remove raw water pump cover and remove the impeller (keep in safe place)
drain the raw water line back to transom shield
disconnect batteries or turn battery switch off.

 

[Augoose]

Exactly what Scott said but add inspect impeller and replace every 2 years or earlier as necessary if the fins become ridged, fill up the fuel tank and add stabilizer, pull batteries and put them on a trickle charger/maintainer, and run fogging oil through the engine (if you want).

In the spring be sure you change the water/fuel separator, grease the driveshaft and u-joints after inspecting them, and don't forget to grease your trailer bearings!

Here is the checklist I use: not all inclusive but it will get you started.

Winterization Proceedures:

1. Fill gas tank and add fuel stabilizer
2. Change engine oil & filter
3. Change water/fuel separator
5. Check trim pump level
   1. ATF fluid
6. Check power steering fluid level
7. Drain cooling system
8. Inspect u-joint and exhaust bellows
9. Replace lower gear unit oil
10. Pull outdrive and service
    1. grease u-joint bearings
    2. grease u-joint splines
    3. inspect gimbal bearing
11. Impeller ? Inspect / Replace every 2 years
12. Pull prop and inspect
    1. grease shaft
13. Lubricate gimbal and all zerks on transom housing
14. Clean terminal ends on battery

Summerization Proceedures:

1. Inspect trim pump fluid level
2. Inspect engine oil level
3. Check gear unit oil level

4. Inspect carburetor fuel filter

 

[Pete_a]

Run some ethanol free gas through carb and tape a trash bag over carb to keep it clean, tape fuel vent. All great advice. Lucky you to have a heated garage.

 

[89retta]

Its a fuel injected engine. No carb guys. Just a peeve of mine when people don't read all of the original post

 

[Pete_a]

Its a fuel injected engine. No carb guys. Just a peeve of mine when people don't read all of the original post

Whoops, did read maybe didnt absorb. So cover with bag yes, carb eh forget about what i said

 

[Augoose]

Its a fuel injected engine. No carb guys. Just a peeve of mine when people don't read all of the original post

I recognize the OP has a FI system. I cut and pasted my checklist into this thread to help not only the OP but anyone looking for general guidance for winterization procedures.

I have no doubt that readers of this post will be able to use the information that applies to their boat and ignore the rest. I didn't think it was necessary to add a line stating "if you don't have a carb don't inspect the carb fuel filter".

 

[89retta]

I understand that, But one thing I've learned from life and this forum. Is that when it comes to newbies to boats or anything is that they are learning.. And some of them might not know what a carb is or that it has a filter. So if they have a FI engine they might start looking for something they don't have. Not saying people are dumb. They are just learning. 25-30 years ago most cars had carbs now hardly any.

 

[bigbrownbuku]

Check with your insurance company first. Some insurance companies wont cover frost damage if self winterised. They need to see a service invoice from a reputable company. I think this has more to do with forcing someone to pay than actual real world usefulness.

If you aren't going to service the engine yourself but just want to winterise (quick and dirty) buy a square/rectangular bucket (larger flat area to sit on a surface above the engine) and install a hose fitting in one end (any small plastic through hull fitting will do) with a male 3/4 pipe garden hose attachment on a few feet of hose, enough to get from wherever you can rest your bucket to the flush port. Connect this to the flush port (blue, top/front right of engine) add a few gallons of RV antifreeze to the bucket and run the engine until its all gone without connecting the garden hose to the drive. 3 to 4 gallons to be sure and use the potable kind not regular antifreeze. Then get a full service in the spring before you use the vessel. Leave the drive in the down position when stored.

To be completely sure crack your block, manifold drain plugs and the lower heat exchanger end cap (if fw cooled), if they show RV antifreeze job done.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Check with your insurance company first. Some insurance companies wont cover frost damage if self winterised. They need to see a service invoice from a reputable company. I think this has more to do with forcing someone to pay than actual real world usefulness.

If you aren't going to service the engine yourself but just want to winterise (quick and dirty) buy a square/rectangular bucket (larger flat area to sit on a surface above the engine) and install a hose fitting in one end (any small plastic through hull fitting will do) with a male 3/4 pipe garden hose attachment on a few feet of hose, enough to get from wherever you can rest your bucket to the flush port. Connect this to the flush port (blue, top/front right of engine) add a few gallons of RV antifreeze to the bucket and run the engine until its all gone without connecting the garden hose to the drive. 3 to 4 gallons to be sure and use the potable kind not regular antifreeze. Then get a full service in the spring before you use the vessel. Leave the drive in the down position when stored.

To be completely sure crack your block, manifold drain plugs and the lower heat exchanger end cap (if fw cooled), if they show RV antifreeze job done.

This is the worst way to winterize and will guarantee a cracked block.

You need to drain..... Period.

Your method will push all the antifreeze out the exhaust and get non in the block

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Glad I have a heated garage too...my precious is even more glad!! I'll be able to gaze at her all winter long!

 

[Pete_a]

This is the worst way to winterize and will guarantee a cracked block.

You need to drain..... Period.

Your method will push all the antifreeze out the exhaust and get non in the block

Good way to fry an impeller too

 

[Lou C]

I get nervous when I hear people talking about using the suck AF up the drive method, if you have not drained the block first. Because if the thermostat does not open all the way, it will not allow the raw water to exit out the exhaust. The raw water left in the engine can crack it if you get a good hard freeze. Always manually drain, probe all drain holes with a stiff wire and if you want, you can back fill with -100 AF but that's optional.