Volvo sx input yoke oil seal leaking

[mikeneal]

I recently pulled drive to remove engine ( cracked head that's another post) and found gear oil in the bellows. I read the manual and it speaks about a rolling torque 9-14 in-lb. I assume that's new bearings and I thought typically there was two value ranges, one for new parts and one for broken in bearing sets. Besides new crush sleeve and bolt any tips from the pros? Trying to decide if I can tackle this job myself. I have some a fair amount of mechanical things and have small fail type torque driver. Does the gear slide off the shaft or does it require a press?

 

[bigbrownbuku]

Its not uncommon to find no issue with the seal or shaft and the reason there is oil in the bellows is due to the drive being overfilled. Sterndrives can get quite warm during high speed operation so there is quite a lot of expansion going on in the oil volume.

The quick and dirty is don't change the rolling torque and use plenty of high strength loctite on the gear bolt. Before disassembly, feel the rolling torque of the double bearing box removed from the drive by hand, some spin quite freely (probably should be adjusted, some still have a small amount of torque from original assembly). Disassemble, replace the seal, reassemble with plenty of loctite on the bolt and tighten the bolt as must as you can without changing the original rolling torque. If you aren't sure blue the gear but its hard to change the gear height as its the front bearing cone that shifts during rolling torque adjustments.
I usually mount a sturdy large flat bladed screwdriver in the vice and fit the cross assembly over the screw driver so i can tighten the bolt with my right while checking the rolling torque with my left.
When you put 9 - 14 in lbs into perspective on original assembly after wear all they want to see is no end play with very slight resistance. I can easily get my rolling torque meter to show 2 ft lbs with my fingers and thumb.(24 in lbs)

 

[muc]

When Volvo doesn't publish a used vs new rolling torque it's because they are allowing a wide range. As a rule of thumb, stay near the lower end of the range for used bearings (spun under load a least once) and near the upper end of the range for new bearings.
The bearing that needs to come off the gear is pressed off and on. I have always had access to the special tools to do this job but would think that you might be able to rig something up. It doesn't take much force to press the gear off of the bearing but when pressing it back on you press hard enough to start crushing the sleeve.

Pro tips ---- if this is your first time working with a crush sleeve, buy an extra one in case you go too far. Remember to grease the seal lips and yoke where they ride. Have the bearings well lubed before setting the rolling torque (it really makes a difference). Don't take any of the advise from the post above this one.

 

[mikeneal]

I made a little pressure tester and with 10psi the leakage rate is quite fast (~1 psi in 45 seconds or something initially) so I am pretty sure the seal is toast. Staying around the lower range seems smart. I also am gonna measure what it is before I mess with it and can always try my best to replicate that. I have a 1/4 hex drive analog torque driver that goes from 0-30 in-lb so i could set the rolling torque the same. I dont have easy access to the press so crushing the sleeve might be a deal killer for me. My local VP dealer where I buy parts says he will do the dirty work if i carry the shaft to them , so might do that.