What can you tell me about this motor and outdrive?

[Government cheese]

I'm thinking of trading for a 1975 fiberform with a Volvo Penta motor and drive. I have no experience with VP. I asked a guy at work and he tells me the motor is half of a Ford 460, is either 230 or 270 hp, and the 270 hp engine has two 4 bbl carbs on it. I honestly find it hard to believe that a forty year old engine would put out even 230 hp. He also said "If that's what I think it is" it has a closed cooling system with radiators, and doesn't need to be winterized. It does have bilge air inlets on each side, and two outlets in the back.

I think there are 200-some hours on the motor. I forget exactly. Is there anything special I need to know? I'll try to find out how to winterize it on my own, but if I don't find that information I'll come back and ask.

 

[Scott Danforth]

its a volvo Aquamatic series out drive, model 270, with an AQ130 (VOLVO motor). this the same 20B volvo motor that was in their cars (1975 volvo 240). my guess the AQ130C since it has the 270 drive on it. its 130hp.

the guy you bought it from didnt know that? my guess he neglected the maintenance as well. the half a ford 460 is the Mercruiser 3.7 liter flop (ford head, pistons and crank with mercruiser block casting)

parts are pricey for the old AQ 20B motors.

if you get it, that drive will need to come off, and change the inlet casting. my guess is the casting has long since corroded away (common problem).

also, put in a new impeller (10 minute job - its mounted on the crank)

 

[jerryjerry05]

NOTHING Ford here.
​Actually looks good for the age.

The 270 is the drives name.
It could be 110hp or 130hp.2 carbs it's probably the 130
Any more #s on the motor?

ALLLL motors need to be winterized.
You don't have a closed cooling system
Some later Volvos had a closed system but still used raw water to cool the system.`

 

[Government cheese]

The guy I got this from didn't have it long, a few weeks maybe? He works at Harris-Kayot, so Mercruiser is what he knows. We traded boats even up, mine needed probably $1000 worth of repairs before I found water in the oil, and at that point I didn't want to put any more money into it.

The guy who told me that info is not the previous owner.

I'll look into that inlet casting. Thanks for the info.

 

[Government cheese]

This piece?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes

 

[dennis461]

I do not see a water to water heat exchanger in the pictures. The bilge fans are to get fumes out, not cool the engine.
Is there a car radiator and fan hiding somewhere, I think not.
Most likely, the water system is a single loop, water up from the leg, through the engine, then out the exhaust.

Was the boat used in saltwater or fresh?

 

[Government cheese]

It's got michigan registration, so I would believe freshwater.

PO said the bellows were changed a year or two ago, and it looks difficult to get to that casting otherwise. I am tempted to splash it for a day just to see, but that means a trip to the lake and back home (hour each way) to winterize.

Two carbs.

I'll have to see where I need to uncork it to winterize that motor.

 

[Scott Danforth]

It's a new to you boat. New bellows, gear oil, impeller, points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, engine oil and filter all should be the first bit of maintenance

 

[74bayliner]

aq130c right there just like i used to have .. well still have but its in the garage taken apart. been to long its the only thing i salvaged from my scrapped project, along withe the outdrive of course, plan to finish some day...

 

[PiratePast40]

No Title

Does the boat look similar to this?

 

[Government cheese]

Just like that, different color though.

 

[PiratePast40]

Here are some of the issues I had with mine:
Floor and transom were rotted so stripped it down to bare hull and rebuilt everything.

Ended up replacing the fuel tank because of multiple leaks and past repairs. Was going to just patch it, but realized that at 30 plus years old, it'll still be an old and rusty tank. Replaced the fuel lines with the modern version and added a spin on fuel filter. I see the fuel filter on yours mounted at the front of the valve cover and not sure it's a good idea.

Have been having problems with the lift mechanism and finally traced it back to the switch itself. Very frustrating.

Replaced the points with the electronic version. I went with Hot Spark and their coil but others seem to like the Pertronics.

You have OEM style plug wires. Any brand will work but the Moeller marine brand fits better. I had the coil wire go bad and that drove me crazy until a neighbor helped me figure it out.

Once you get the carbs set up correctly, and the addition of the electronic spark, starts much easier, even after sitting all winter.

The aluminum crush washers on the carb fuel line fittings are one use only. Buy a bunch of them from Jeggs or when you order things like repair kits, bellows, and impellers from a VP dealer.

When I bought my boat, the guy said "all it needs is a bellows". Well, it needed a bellows because the old one leaked and rusted the u-joints. When they let go, they took out the rear end of the flywheel cover. Main lesson - do the maintenance!

I take the time to pressure and vacuum test the outdrive every few years. I've found a few leaks and believe I saved myself quite a bit of trouble and money by doing repairs before they became a big deal.

Good luck, keep us up to date on how you're doing with the boat.

 

[Government cheese]

I hate to think I'd have to replace the transom and floor.

Tried to take it out for a test a week or two ago and it wouldn't start. I think it's gonna sit until spring before I do anything to it.

Thanks for the info.