Stumped - Shift delay 4.3 gl SX drive

[Mnoverboard]

Hello all, I'm stumped. Here's the problem.. When shifting into forward there is a NOTICEABLE delay (2seconds) before I feel the drive engage. Reverse engages without any issue. I believe the controls are teleflex SL-3 side mount with trim. Here's the facts...

With the shift linkage disengaged at the drive and the prop in the water, I can shift it using my HAND into forward/reverse like butter.
Attempted to adjust at the linkage but is already adjusted to the max
Replaced shift cable - same issue
Placed a 3mm shim in front of shift cable retainer on the drive so I could gain some threads and adjust the linkage. This solved the problem for most of the season... But now it's back. Two second delay when shifting into forward. Reverse no prob.
Outdrive oil is at proper level and is pristine.
I'm starting to think issue is at the controls. It's seems as if the whole assembly is set too far towards the reverse side of things.. But there doesn't seem to be a way of adjusting it at the controls. Any help would be appreciated as I'm starting to lose my mind lol. Thanks in advance Patrick

 

[bajaunderground]

Here's the installation manual, it does cover some of the adjustments. If you can hit up (PM) Bruceb58, he's very sharp on these controls. Page 14 notes having the throttle all the way forward when connecting the shift linkage...not sure if that helps? To me it sounds like a clutch issue within the drive itself? But I know nothing about how the clutches and/or mechanism 'engages'?

 

[bruceb58]

If you can move the linkage at the drive and it shifts properly, something is happening with your control in that it loses some throw.

Shift using your control while on muffs. Use the control and shift it until you get the delay. Immediately turn off the motor while keeping it in gear and go back to the linkage, remove the cotter pin for the control cable and see if you can push the linkage going to the drive further into forward. If you can, then you need to make an adjustment to the cable to make it go into forward further.

The Teleflex S3 is basically the Volvo control but for some reason they charge more for it with the Teleflex name on it.

How much slop is there where the cotter pin goes in? I make sure there is a stainless washer right underneath the cotter pin to remove any play that might be there.

Describe your adjustment procedure.

 

[Mnoverboard]

Thanks for the response bruceb58. While shifting in forward (with muffs) there is a delay. All it takes is for me to rotate the eccentric piston maybe 2 degrees and then forward engages. There is a fair bit of slop between the cotter pin and linkage which I will remedy with a thicker washer. I have no more threads for adjustment on the "drive end" of the cable which is why I placed a small spacer before the cable retainer on the drive. The control end of the the cable is OEM style and doesn't look like it can be adjusted. If it's something more sinister like the cone clutch , would it display this behaviour in both fwd and rev?.. Thanks again

 

[Mnoverboard]

Was thinking ... With the engine off, linkage disconnected, shift into reverse by hand and note the resistance when trying to turn prop by hand. Then repeat the procedure in forward and compare. If they are approximately equal then would it be safe to assume the cone clutch is good and therefore my problem lies somewhere in the controls?

 

[89retta]

Have you tried removing the shift lever and moving it one spline back?

 

[bruceb58]

The control end of the the cable is OEM style and doesn't look like it can be adjusted.

The control end of the cable should look exactly like the drive end. Should be threaded on both ends. You should have plenty of threads to do adjustment. If you don't, you need to fix that because it is not correct.

Can you take a picture of it?

 

[Mnoverboard]

It's only threaded at the drive end. Control end of cable is oem style and lacks adjustment. Will try to post pic

 

[Mnoverboard]

No Title

 

[Mnoverboard]

Picture on my phone was too large but looks exactly like photo above

 

[bruceb58]

You have the old OMC style cable. When I moved to the new console control like you have, I found that I needed to change out the cables to the new style with the threaded ends on both sides. Is this console shifter new to you or did it always have it?

 

[Mnoverboard]

The controls are original to the boat. I replaced the shift cable in the off season but it made no difference.

 

[bruceb58]

I have that exact same control, I suggest using the cable with both ends being the 33C type. I use those and I have plenty of adjustment range.

 

[Poco2]

The sliding sleeve, also known as the cone clutch, has an upper cone(reverse) and a lower cone(forward).Reverse can work quite well but if the lower cone wears it will slip causing your delay. It is easy to check without starting the motor or being in the water. Put the shift into forward. The prop will turn clockwise very easily but will immediately lock when turning counterclockwise. Put it into reverse. The prop will now turn counter clockwise easily but will lock when turned clockwise. The prop turns easily either direction when in neutral. Any slippage means a worn cone.

If you think it is the cable then go to the outdrive and remove the upper drive cover (3 10mm bolts) and remove the link on the left side of the shift lever.(not the shift cable. leave it intact.). Save the washer and cotter key. Push the lever up (this is forward)and test the prop as above. Push the lever down (reverse) and test again. all positions have a detent inside that you can feel. If it tests ok here then it is the cable adjustment or defective shifter.

When I say the prop locks immediately it shouldn't move 1/4 inch before it stops.

I had the same problem but sometimes I had to rev up a bit then it would engage. I changed out the cone and problem solved. I used the new cone 3807613 and left the spring out per parts bulletin P-44-1 18 01.

 

[Poco2]

I cant seem to post a link to the bulletin. Ill try to find a new one if someones wants to see it

 

[Mnoverboard]

Thanks Poco2, that's exactly what I did this afternoon. Disconnected the shift linkage and shifted into reverse by hand. I tried to rotate prop opposite and it was nice and solid. When I shifted into forward .. That was a different story. I could rotate prop 90 degrees before I got firm resistance. If I spun prop forward a bit I could then rotate it opposite 45 degrees before I encountered resistance again. Probably not gonna be cheap I imagine. If ya can find the link to the bulletin I'd like to see it. Thanks again

 

[bruceb58]

Yep...sounds like its a cone issue which may have been caused by cable adjustment out of whack.

 

[Mnoverboard]

Gonna have a go at replacing the cone clutch this weekend if time permits. The service bulletin states that when installing the new cone, Do Not re install the C clip, spring washer, and spring. I don't know if I can get to the c clip and spacer without a special tool to remove the lower gear set. Has anybody simply removed the spring and left the c clip and spacer in place? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[rubyme8]

Gonna have a go at replacing the cone clutch this weekend if time permits. The service bulletin states that when installing the new cone, Do Not re install the C clip, spring washer, and spring. I don't know if I can get to the c clip and spacer without a special tool to remove the lower gear set. Has anybody simply removed the spring and left the c clip and spacer in place? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Were you able to replace your cone clutch? Was there a manual you followed? I'm a little confused with what the service bulletin means by "Do Not re install the C clip, spring washer, and spring" does that mean to replace the existing spring with a new one or remove the existing spring and throw it away?

 

[bruceb58]

You are posting on an old thread and the OP hasn't been here since October of 2016. You should start a new thread.