2001 Chaparral 230 SSI with PV 5.7l 4 barrel holley carb does not start once hot

Raptor2014

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Over the winter I found out that my block had cracked from not completely winterizing the motor. I have replaced the motor with the old style Penta 5.7 (Red/Orange) it came with the Holley 4 barrel carb. I know a lot of the accessories that were on my 2001 are not used on the older one. That being said I did a lot of research on the wiring harness making sure I had all of the correct connections. I have taken the boat out multiple times with 3 out of the 5 being towed back to the boat ramp once out on the water. The motor starts great when it is on the trailer and cold. I have noticed that it does not like to start when it has not been running for a while out on the water. I have been trying to look up on the forms for similar problems but I have not been able to find a topic. Here are some of the things I think it could be or if it is something else please let me know. Vapor lock which I think it from air getting in the carb or Coiler for the spark plugs. Do the coilers go up after so long? is there a way to test them. Any and all input is appreciated!!
 

spoilsofwar

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The red VP engines would not be "older"; they were built from 2000 until 2011 - the right age range for your boat. Did your boat originally have a charcoal painted block? If so, those were actually the older motors, starting back in 1994. Just because the boat is a 2001 model doesn't mean it was built with a 2001 model engine; for example my 2012 boat has a motor built in 2010.

Where did the replacement motor come from? What is the serial number? And is the Holley carb on it original to the motor? None of this is the root of your issue, I'm just trying to narrow down what you're working with.
 

Raptor2014

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My motor was charcoal black, I did not know that they were newer (red) lol. I would have to look where the Serial number is on the motor I do not know where that is located. It was a slightly used motor with the heat exchanger from a twin motor boat. Since the charcoal motor was an electric fuel pump and the red motor came with the manual. I stayed with the manual and did away with the electric. I am not sure if the carb is original or not how I do find out which one it is
 

bruceb58

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Since you have a manual fuel pump, you have an older engine. I wonder how much older. You may not have Vortec heads anymore.
 

spoilsofwar

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Bruce is right. VP has gone back and forth with the engine colors, and before the charcoal they were also red for a spell. My mistake for automatically assuming it was one of the most recent red painted blocks.
 

bruceb58

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You didn't answer my distributor question but I am guessing you now have a points distributor. I highly suggest you put the distributor from your original engine onto this one. I would also move your carb over as well since you likely know your original engine was running correctly.
 

Raptor2014

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are you looking for what type of distributor I have or the coiler to the distributor? The coiler is the MSD Blaster 2 (PN 8202)
 

Raptor2014

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Are you talking about the coiler? or the actual Distributor? the Coiler is the MSD Blaster 2 PN 8202. Hope that helps if not I can look at it and get it right back to you.
 

bruceb58

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I was talking about the distributor but since it comes with its own coil and the one you have is not compatible, that basically answers the question about your distributor.

Do you still have your old distributor?
 
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Raptor2014

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No I do not have the old one, the one with the motor I currently have came with everything included with it.
 

bruceb58

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No I do not have the old one, the one with the motor I currently have came with everything included with it.
Bummer. You left a $300+ distributor on there.

I am assuming your new distributor has points. If so, you wired up a ballast resistor of some sort right?

BTW, you really did yourself a huge disservice not transferring everything over to the new engine. Not only have you created a frankenmotor but you are gong to have a heck of a time ever selling this thing and getting what it's worth.

Have a picture of your motor?
 
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Raptor2014

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I did not see point on keeping the distributor when the motor I purchased came with everything included. However the motor was not set up with the serpentine belt system it was the older V-belts. I transferred over all of the pulleys and the needed systems to have the motor running. I do not see how I did any sort of disservice to myself considering it was the same motor, same size, same brand etc. I have included the picture of the distributor cap and the coiler.
 

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bruceb58

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This new motor is not a Vortec. You lost probably 30 HP by doing that. All you would have had to do is swap the heads and intake manifold.

You now have a points distributor instead of a modern electronic distributor.

Do you have a ballast resistor of some kind feeding your coil? If you don't know, measure the voltage between the coil and the engine ground to see what the voltage is. If you don't have a ballast resistor, you may be overheating your coil.

Of course the best thing to do is buy one of these:
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/delco-...tor-p-119.html
This just happens to be the distributor you used to have.

I see what appears to be some scotchlok connectors in your wiring. You need to get rid of those.
41y%2BBimzB5L._SX342_.jpg
 
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Raptor2014

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And why do you think I have to removed my entire distributor? I am still lost as to what the core of my problem is here
 

bruceb58

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The core of your problem is that it looks like someone hacked into the original wiring harness, based on what I see with original connectors with blue scotchloks.

There is now a combo of connectors that connected to the original distributor with scotchloks added to them to connect to this points distributor. Unless you have a ballast resistor in there connected to this points distributor, you will overheat your coil.

In addition, using scotchloks to connect to the original wire harness is a recipe for disaster down the road or may even be your problem now since they can vibrate loose and corrode.

Do not ever go to this mechanic again who did this to you.
 
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