2011 5.7 EGC power supplies

[Dave-R]

I am trying to bring back to life my sunken 2011 Cobalt. Have the new engine installed, with brand new EGC. I do not have any of the replacement gauges or switches installed. I have the ignition switch installed, and the engine cranks, but no life. I hooked up the Rinda Diacom adapter to the engine, and it says to check the connections, as it can't communicate with the EGC. I checked the EGC plug, and found power at pin# 79 but not at pin# 60 like it is supposed to. Any idea where pin 60 is powered from. I do have power to all the engine fuses. I know all the gauges are linked together. Think this could be my problem? thanks Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

Not sure if you have a copy of Volvo's EGC- but pages 46+, 69 of the EGC-Diagnostic are of some interest for this.... https://www.scribd.com/doc/231822318...EGC-Diagnostic

Pin number 60: R/PU Battery Feed 1
Pin number 79 R/PU Battery Feed 2
Pin number 80 GN/Y MIL Driver (Malfunction Indicator Lamp)
Pin number 45 PU Ignition Feed (Run, Start)
Pin number 71 W/LBL Ignition Relay Driver
Pin number 69 SBPower Ground

With the Diagnostic Scan Tool connected, turn the ignition switch to the ON position. A series of screens will appear giving the version and copyright information. If no screens appear when the ignition switch is turned ON, check the connections at the DLC, the scan tool adaptor, main engine harness connector, battery, power and ground connections to the engine.

Pin 60 is referenced on page 177 and looks like it may go to # F2 fuse in the engine fuse box but so does 79 it seems. So you may have a bad connection somewhere and ohms testing may help locate it as long the wire isn't backing out of the pin connector at the ECM from all the wire movement or water damage corrosion from being under water if you're not using a new wiring harness??
Going off of memory, any time there's a blown fuse with F 1 or F 2 fuse circuit, if one fuse blows, replace both as the other fuse is considered to be compromised now even though it still working.

DTC 0562 - System Voltage Low
SPN-168 FMI-17
Circuit Description
The battery voltage powers the ECM and must be measured to cor-rectly operate injector drivers, fuel trim valves and ignition coils. This fault will set if the ECM detects system voltage less than 11.0 volts for 30 seconds or longer while the alternator should be charging.
Conditions for setting the DTC
?System voltage to ECM.?Check condition - key ON and engine speed greater than 500 RPM.?Fault condition - battery voltage at ECM less than 11.0 volts continuously for 30 seconds.?MIL - on for active fault and for 10 seconds after active fault.

Be sure to read page 177 - 180 as there is a test procedure you can try for both High and Low voltages.


Sorry the letters are so big with the info below, it's a copy and paste of the dash indictor light should your boat have one? to possibly help give an idea of further testing that the ECM seems to be working/putting out a signal reference.

On-Board Diagnostics System Check (OBD)Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL)Circuit Description
The Volvo Penta Fuel system is equipped with on-board diagnostics (OBD). The system has an optional dash mounted check engine light for the indication of system problems. Engine control system problems that affect emissions or driveability of the boat will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). The MIL lamp is powered from the ignition switch. The Engine Control Module (ECM) will provide a path to ground through pin 80 at the ECM and then via Pin 9 in the engine harness connector to illuminate the MIL lamp.The MIL has the following functions:

1.
Notifies the operator of a problem with the fuel system, ignition system, engine temperature, exhaust temperature, or oil pressure so the operator can arrange for service as soon as possible.
2.
It will display DTC?s that have been stored due to a system mal-function.The lamp should illuminate when the key is in the run position, and the engine is not running. This feature verifies that the lamp is in proper working order.If the lamp does not illuminate with the key ON/engine OFF, repair the lamp as soon as possible. Once the engine is in the run mode, the lamp should turn off. If the lamp illuminates while the engine is running a current DTC may be set. Always use the OBD system check chart to verify proper MIL operation before proceeding with a DTC repair

 

[Dave-R]

Fun times: I cannot thank you enough. I will try all of these. Dave-R

 

[Dave-R]

I have installed all the original factory gauges, and the the new switches to the dash. I have no power to the dash gauges? All the components, horn, lights, blowers and pumps, are working. I have cleaned all the ground buses, and wires. The engine does turn over,but no start. I will pull the ignition relay and check for voltage. I have checked all the fuses at the engine block, and they all have power. I also did as Funtimes suggested and checked the EGC pins # 60, and 79 for power, and I do have it there. I will pull the engine harness off to also to check the pins . I was hoping for something like a circuit breaker on the engine. I have the Rinda diacom ready to use, but it can't communicate to the EGC. It says to check the connections. I think the dead dash gauges are telling me something. I will try to find a wiring diagram. Any help will be appreciated. Dave R.

 

[Fun Times]

Try jumping the should be purple ignition wire right off the back of the ignition key switch to a known working 12 volt power supply usually found at the key switch as a red in color wire. Also be sure the safety lanyard ignition kill switch is in the run position.

 

[Dave-R]

I tried jumping the purple ignition wire with a hot lead, with no results. I opened, and checked the engine harness to see if a pin was bent or something, but it also looked good. The ignition switch power comes from the engine harness, and when in the run position, I also have power to the purple ignition terminal . I got a wiring diagram from cobalt, but if I enlarge it you can't read it. I will look on the ground side next. I have cleaned the ground buss's till they shine, and took the wires off and cleaned them also. I have 2 new batteries that are fully charged. On the engine, all the fuses are good and they have power to both sides. The pump, blower, lights, and horn work fine. Funny thing though, sometimes the engine will crank, and sometimes it won't. I have no idea what that would be from. I am going to check the EGC harness to see if the grounds in it are okay. I did note that the gauges do all light up with the Nav lights, so they are just not getting a signal. After all this the Rinda Diacom still cannot communicate with the EGC. I get a check cable alarm. Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

The Rinda most likely won't turn on until you ensure power is leaving the key switch, travels through the gauges, the safety kill switch, through the main power wire harness cannon plug, through the engine wire harness (pin 5) to fire/wake up the ECM which is pin number 45 PU Ignition Feed (Run, Start).

You'll want to ohms check the purple wire between the key and wire harness cannon plug to see if there is a wire break somewhere...Also give the wiring harness a wiggle with the key on to see if it powers up for you. One other idea is to try and confirm if you have an issue on the boat side or the engine side by jumping the wires at the engine cannon plug similar to this video. Pins 5, 6 & 7 > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUoXFIo2Ab8

Do you have 12v power and ground at all gauge wire connectors?
There should/could also be a wire plug connector under the helm/dash that could have a bad connection so be sure to check for that. Does the Depth & Air/Water gauge turn on?

Also be sure to inspect the resettable circuit breakers like seen here,
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...6#post10191996

What Cobalt boat model do you have?

 

[Dave-R]

Thanks Funtimes even more. The boat is a 2011 Cobalt 232. The gauge lights work, they all have the sealed connections, so I think I can pull the cap off and check the ground plugs for continuity. The chance for a loose connection is high, as I pressure washed the heck out of it during cleaning. The depth gauge does not turn on either, only the light when the nav lights are on. Will also look under the dash to see if there is a plug not hooked to the gauges. The issue of sometimes cranking, and not cranking also is telling me something, but not sure what. I like the Idea of jumping at the engine harness also, as if this succeeds, should be easy to track down the loose ends. I will try these things and get back to you. Dave-R

 

[Dave-R]

Bingo: Funtimes you got me headed in the right direction. I knew I had voltage at the purple wire (ignition Wire) on the switch. And I assumed it was getting to the engine harness. Wrong. The kill switch, which I had already taken apart and tested, had a broken wire about 18" away. After a prayer, I turned the key, and heard the computer check beeping, and the fuel pump relays click, and the pumps made a 10 second run. I plugged in the Rinda, and she connected. After clearing a few codes, the only active code was a SPN: 29 TCP #2 senser fault. I'm going to replace both the TCP, and the TPS. The gauges are still a problem though, not sure where they power up from. But I will keep looking. Progress at last. Thanks again Dave-R.

 

[Fun Times]

Good to hear it's getting closer to success with powering up the engine.:encouragement:

If interested, Cobalt offers an online owners manual with a basic (not detailed) wire harness diagram in section 4 for most models including your 2011, 232.
While I'm pretty sure it's not going to be your issue because the Air/Depth gauge is supposed to power up with the gauges, there is a 1 amp inline fuse to the Air Temp/Depth gauge behind the dash.

If you had a broke wire then whatever caused it may have pulled on the wire pin at one of the wire harness connectors up under the dash that either puts 12v or ground to the gauges......Since the gauge lights work, that should indicate that the gauges have good ground already in place so it "should" be an issue with the power wire. It's just one of those things you have to follow the wiring through the system including the wire plug connectors and see where it's not connected correctly just like when you found the first broken wire by the kill switch.
One thing about Cobalt, essentially they do at least try to make things like wiring as easy as possible to work on. So once you find it, it will all make more sense.:joyous:

With a small search of your boat model/year, the owners manual can be found here, http://www.cobaltboats.com/support/download_library.html#.V5ROTf36upo

 

[Dave-R]

I just found my gauge problem. The purple ignition wire pulled out of it''s socket just before it entered the gauge loom. There is a lot of tension on the connection. My neighbor builds wiring harnesses for street legal atvs. I will see if he can make me a harness a little longer. Just when I could see the light at the end of the tunnel, The Rinda say's my new EGC is programmed for a 8.1 engine instead of the 5.7 GI-C 300 that I have GRRRRRRR. I know that the Rinda Diacom I have can reflash the EGC, but not sure where or who to contact. Oh well to steps forward and one step back. Dave-R

 

[Fun Times]

^ Good to hear.

The Rinda say's my new EGC is programmed for a 8.1 engine instead of the 5.7 GI-C 300 that I have GRRRRRRR. I know that the Rinda Diacom I have can reflash the EGC, but not sure where or who to contact. Oh well to steps forward and one step back. Dave-R

So you plug in the scan tool and it reads 8.1L and not 5.7L? Normally what should be happening is the scan tool is just reading what is programmed into the ECM via the calibration, checksums, EEPROM, etc.. Typically the scan tool shouldn't be set just for one engine model, they're usually set to read a number of engines. Did you set it up for marine engines at the beginning?

What are the chances the ECM was changed somewhere along the line to where there might be the wrong ECM is mounted to the engine? There should be some sticker info on the ECM indicating what ECM you should have as far as engine....But bear in mind that some are able to re-flash this design ECM so maybe something was changed internally somewhere along the line and then ECM's swapped.

What model scan tool do you have? Hand held or download software for a laptop computer, etc.?

Below is some info of how it should start up and read,

Volvo Penta EGC
3) Once the tool is connected, turn the ignition switch ON and start the engine if necessary. If the engine will not start, leave the ignition switch ON and proceed.
4) After the scan tool displays its initial opening messages, use the  and  keys to display the “MARINE EFI” operating mode from the main menu, then press the YES key to select it.
Obtaining General Diagnostic Data After selecting the “MARINE EFI” function the scan tool will attempt to communicate with the engine’s fuel injection computer and automatically identify it. After an identification is made you will be presented with several menu choices. To obtain general diagnostic data and system trouble codes, select the “ECM Data” function. This menu choice causes the scanner to begin reading information from the Volvo EGC module. The scanner will prompt for your input as follows:
1) After selecting the “ECM Data“ function the scanner will communicate with the engine’s EGC control module and automatically provide you with the number of Operating Hours the engine has logged.
2) Once the engine operating hours have been displayed the scanner will prompt you to scan for trouble codes. Selecting YES will cause the scanner to interrogate the EGC’s trouble code memory. If any codes are present, their descriptions will be displayed. After the trouble code description is displayed you will be prompted to view optional information associated with each code. This information includes whether the code was set during the current ignition cycle and the number of engine restarts since the code was set.
3) After trouble codes are displayed the scan tool will provide an option to Erase the stored codes.
Viewing Specialized Diagnostic Data In addition to providing general diagnostic data as described above, the scan tool provides several other data lists that are each tailored for a specific purpose. These lists vary based upon EGC system type and are accessible from the main Volvo Penta EGC system menu. All lists may not be available on a particular EGC system type.
Warning Monitor data list:
This data list provides quick access to a subset of EGC parameters and status indicators that are considered system critical. Parameters displayed in this list provide a technician with a summary of important operating data such as oil pressure, engine temperature, MIL status as well as other critical engine indicators.
ECM Information data list:
Selecting this data list allows a technician to view version, serial number and calibration information related to the engine and EGC module. This information includes a variety of non-diagnostic data including hardware and software version numbers, calibration checksums, serial numbers and engine firing order data.

In the end of all this, first contact Rinda and explain the situation as they are good people to work with for info to see what's next for you.

 

[Dave-R]

Funtimes: I have the Rinda Diacom 2.9 software with a laptop. It is pretty much like you described it. We first cleared the past DTC's and one would not clear and that is SPN29 FM-3. Turns out to be a TPC-2 senser high voltage or short alarm. The wife printed out from the Rinda,a system information sheet that has all the ECM data, serial# ,software serial#, and current cal model,engine displacement, (8.1) and cylinder firing order(18726543). That is when I knew we were done for as our engine is a 5.7. Has anyone out there reflashed an ECM ?I had my neighbor who makes all kinds of wiring harnesses, repair my damaged gauge harness. He said he could make me any other harness we might need in the future. I tilled up an acre for him and he promised to get even. I think I will have to get a new throttle positioner / throttle body. It says General Motors on it but no numbers anywhere. If I have to use Volvo penta it will be a lot of money if anyone has an idea on a cross reference it would be great. I will post some pictures of the boat. you would never know it was under water 8 months. Thanks Dave-R