Help: oil from my Volvo-Penta SX Cobra outdrive lower portion 7/2016

mtbdudex

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 3, 2009
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78
Well I last fixed my outdrive upper portion 6 years ago, thread here


Now, appears a seal in my lower portion needs replacing.
After winterizing last year, did the spring wake up, video clip
https://youtu.be/-XTupDFD7FU

Noticed oil on the lower portion
2016_07_07_17_36_06.jpg


and oil on dipstick after putting in water for brief usage (about 45 minutes)
2016_07_07_17_30_02.jpg


so now I've got the prop removed,
2016_07_07_17_30_05.jpg


and my manual also, so what seals do I need to replace?
2016_07_07_17_30_07.jpg



.
2016_07_07_17_30_09.jpg
 
Last edited:

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
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Jul 7, 2004
Messages
2,064
A pressure test first is best so your sure where the leak is.
Most likely you need prop shaft seals and the oring for the bearing carrier.
 

mtbdudex

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Ok, so I' not a pro mechanic, but no problem with tear down and re-assembly.
ie, I have no easy access to special test equipment nor any special tools for dis-assembly/re-assembly.

So knowing that, since outdrive is 20 years old is the prudent thing to to at this stage is dis-assembly and re-build for all seals then?
I'm think along those lines.
 

muc

"Retired" Association of Marine Technicians...
Joined
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Messages
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At 20 years, yes probably.
I have always had access to the required special tools and wouldn't attempt this job without them --- but that's me.
There is only one seal, the rest are o-rings that rarely go bad unless you disassemble them.
Not sure how somebody goes about getting the bearing carrier out and torqued back down without that tool.
Getting the drive shaft out of the pinion gear might be tough, they are usually stuck in there pretty good and even with the special puller they have a good pop when they let loose.
Volvo recommends checking and resetting the rolling torque upon reassembly. At 20 years my guess is you will need a .002" - .004" thinner load ring to get proper rolling torque.
Read your service manual to decide if your up to the job.
Might want to ask your local dealer how much they would charge if you brought just the lower in to them. With the proper tools and experience this is a very easy and quick job, it takes longer to drain the fluid, pull the drive, separate and reassemble the upper and lower,pressure test, refill lube and reinstall the drive. than it does to do a reseal.
 

mtbdudex

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I removed the lower drive unit, a local marina quoted me 4 hours labor for the work, I told them to proceed... @ $109/hr + parts this is $450 total.....
 

further

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Jun 18, 2009
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I had a similar leak after spring startup which ended up being the prop shaft seal - mine is also 20 years old. I builit a simple pressure/vacuum tester and found it wasn't holding pressure. Had a mechanic do the replacement because of the special tools needed to get the bearing carrier out. Cost was $450 so your quote is good.
 

mtbdudex

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 3, 2009
Messages
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Honestly thx for posting, as a dad on a budget I don't mind spending $$ for a fair job.
My gut feel was 2 hours but guess I underestimated the total time req'd.

Since I'm in the auto OE business, we have detailed std service work tables for 99% of service work, when I asked the tech does that exist for this job I was told does not exist (I find that hard to believe, as techs make extra $$ by beating the std times).
 
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