Another not reaching max rpm post.

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
Sorry for this... ive read and contributed to a lot of posts regarding not reaching max rpm at wot. Heres the story...
1998 volvo penta 5.0gipbycce with a dp-sm 1.95:1 outdrive. The boat has been sitting for over 10 years. I spent a year trying to get this into shape to launch. Engine was frozen... patience and marvel mystery oil freed it. Replaced the starter, cap rotor, plugs, manifold, risers, bellows, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, thermostat, thermostat housing, water pump impeller, and changed gear lube. New oil pan as well as a couple other things im sure I'm forgetting.
At any rate, I got her running and splashed a month ago. Sounds good, runs good. The only thing is, i only get 3800 rpms. Im using the origonal props which are in good condition. I replaced the high pressure pump and tested fuel pressure which was 30psi. Pipe doped all fuel lines and i didnt see any air bubbles during a fuel test. I sent out the injectors to be tested, flowed and matched. I bought a rebuild kit for the tbi and cleaned and replaced everything. Cleaned out the vst and rebuilt the fuel pressure regulator. Today after puting 25 hours on it i changed the oil and filter and also the water sep fuel filter. The oil seemed dirty, which i expected since the motor was frozen. Oil wasnt burned or milky, it just seemed a bit dirty. The fuel filter had some setiment in it, but no water. I should add that there was 150 gallons of 10 year old fuel in it. I pumped all that out. I would say that if there was any fuel left in the tank it would have been less than 15 gallons. I put 100 gallons in there a month ago, so i thing that would have diluted any rrsidual fuel left in the tank.
Anyway, no change in rpms after todays work. Im curious as to where to start (or continue in my case). Boat runs great otherwise. If i didnt have a manual that says i should be getting 4800 rpms i wouldnt think anything was wrong. My theory is that it is a fuel problem... which brings one last question. When rebuilding the fuel pressure regulator there were 2 screws that came with the kit. I used those to close the cap on the regulator because from whae i read it is "near impossible" to squeeze down on the spring to close the cap. I replaced the diaphram but not the spring. I actually found it easy to push down and could have used the origonal screws to close it. There was resistance, but it was far from impossible. So if the spring is bad, will i still see 30psi on the rail? My theory is that the spring is weak and the regulator is sending fuel back to the vst. However, if that were the case i would think that i wouldnt be showing 30psi at wot.
Sorry for being long winded. Im trying to give as much information as possible to get a solution. Thanks in advance for the help!
 
Last edited:

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
Thats a good point. No. But i would think it either works or it doesnt. So at idle it is at 500. I think at wot it sounds strong but i dont have anything to compare it to.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,565
Test the tach. You should be idling at 650
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,565
You get a quality diagnostic tach ( you can get a loaner from most auto stores) and you validate the RPM
 

rs1lollie

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
194
snap on timing light with the tach option on it, that works well to see if your tach is off,
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
A motor that has been stuck is stuck because the rings have rusted to the cylinder bore. Breaking the engine loose again can, depending on the procedure used, break ring lands and sometimes rings as well. With a few broken bits in the engine, it cannot be expected to spin up properly. Perhaps a compression and leakdown test is in order. Timing properly set? What do the plugs look like after a hard run then immediately shut off.
 

ericga

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
213
... I actually found it easy to push down and could have used the origonal screws to close it. There was resistance, but it was far from impossible. So if the spring is bad, will i still see 30psi on the rail? My theory is that the spring is weak and the regulator is sending fuel back to the vst. However, if that were the case i would think that i wouldnt be showing 30psi at wot.

Is the regulator original or an adjustable aftermarket? It would not show 30psi with a weaker spring.

Have you done a compression test? Knock sensor is good and no pinging?

What kind of boat and what speed are you reaching at 3800rpm?
 

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
Original regulator. Plugs look good. No pinging. I have a 28ft master marine. Making 34 mph top end. I think a compression test is next on the list.
 
Last edited:

ericga

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
213
If a cylinder has low compression run a wet compression test (1tsp of oil in cyl). If compression restored you may just need an extra MMO soak.
 

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
Finally managed a compression test. 180 psi across the board. I have to say I was a bit surprised. I have not tested the tach, but I don't think that is the problem. Curious if anyone has any other ideas.

A couple other notes... I am running champion spark plugs as recommended by the service manual... gapped at .045 which is what I believe they are supposed to be at. I've read that many do not prefer them so I will change them out. I find it hard to believe the brand of plugs would lose 1000rpms.
Lastly, sometimes when throttling up I get a slight hesitation... just for a second, and then the rpms increase. Any other suggestions on where to start?
 

ericga

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
213
Do you know if your boat has the exhaust flapper valve?
 

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
Also, the manual says it should idle at 600 rpm but it is not adjustable. So if I'm idling low would that be a faulty or dirty IAC and would that cause loss of 1000 rpms at wot?
 

ericga

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
213
A faulty IAC wouldn't cause a 1000 rpm loss at wot. Could you have mix 2 close cylinders in the firing order sequence? That would be barely noticeable but cause idle rpm to be slightly lower and affect your wot rpm. Two symptoms you currently have.
 

ericga

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
213
... and a slight hesitation throttling up so 3 symptoms.
 

mklearl

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 21, 2013
Messages
379
I'm leaning toward the timing being off at this point. Checking it will have to wait a couple weeks. Thanks for the input.
 
Top