2004 SX-M Trim Cylinder Hose Replacement

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Hey guys, so the lower port hose is leaking on the end at the cylinder. From the looks of it, it is leaking where the tubing enters the metal fitting/cap that attaches to the rubber hose. I bought a new hose to replace it and I would sure like to do it without removing the stern drive. I have had the boat for nearly 2 years and I have not done that yet - I know I need to eventually but right before the summer season is not the time I want to attempt it! I am just certain there will be more issues that arise besides the maintenance suggestions in the VP manual of replacing the bellows, water hose, and water sealing seal (and what the heck is that anyway?) - so I would just rather wait.

Anyway - the question I have is that it must be possible to do this job and install the new hose directly without removing the drive? I did see a video on YT where a fellow made a custom wrench and I did so as well (with a 7/16, not the correct 11mm flare wrench) But the fitting nut is so tight at the manifold I cant get it to move and I am worried about stripping the nut. I am thinking about making another wrench using the 11mm but that wrench head is thicker and the other issue is that the upper hose is so close there is no clearance to turn the wrench without head it hitting the upper nut.

I sprayed some penetrating oil on the fittings in hopes they will loosen and I will try again in the AM. I guess the best idea is to remove the upper hose too but I would like to minimize removing unnecessary things to avoid the chance of other issues arising...

I guess what I am looking for is any advice (or encouragement) that I can get this done without fully removing the stern drive. Has anyone else been able to do so? I was also hoping I could replace the trim sender at the same time and route the wires without removing the stern drive?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

bajaunderground

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
1,401
If you can cut the hose(s) your replacing in the stainless steel portion you can get a box end 11mm on there as well, it works quite well. Make sure your drive is trimmed up and tied-off as once you lose pressure, it will drop. I've not replaced mine yet, but did that to pull off the old hoses on the trim cylinders that came off with my old transom assembly.

Edit: having pulled a trim sender off a transom assembly, I can assure you there's no way to get it out with pulling your drive, gimbal housing and possibles motor. It's a royal PITA when you have unfettered access off the boat, let alone with drive and motor in place.
 
Last edited:

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Thanks baja, thats a great idea cutting the hose! I think I can definitely do that. Well I think I will hold off on the sender for now, was having a hard time deciding to peel off the 170 just to make a useless gauge work anyway! hahaha. Thanks again!
 

dypcdiver

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
1,016
Pull the drive you know you need to. I had to replace my manifold as all 4 nuts were seized, it can be done without removing the motor.
 

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Well it looks like I may be pulling it tomorrow. The penetrating oil didnt do a thing. I didnt try cutting the tubing yet and use a box end, that will be my last attempt before I pull the drive. But I got a customized 11mm flare nut wrench and it just slipped and started to strip the nut. No clearance to take the upper hose either because the mounting stud/nut for the manifold is in the way. This alone is a major PITA. I think I will be ordering the useless trim sender as well as new bellows and seals, may as well replace those at the same time. Can you guys tell me the P/N of the seal kit I need to order for SX-M 1.97?
 

gbolin

Recruit
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
3
I have the same problem... where did you get the hose kit? I have searched and I cant find a definitive part number that fits for sure... and all I can find on the drive placard is that it's a sx-m 1.60 3868891. I have had the boat a month and a half and need to stop the leak... dont want the man rolling up and finding an oil slick.
any help is appreciated.
 

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Hey Goblin - well after searching all over for the best price I bought the first hose from JMS Online but I bought the wrong one. It took about 9-10 days to get it and I sent it back as soon as I got it but still havent gotten the refund now going on 3 weeks. But then I found the correct part from a seller on FeeBay and got it within 3 days or so.

I found the part numbers for my SX-M 1.97 here: http://www.volvopentastore.com/Trim-...view_id.789362

I would think yours would use the same parts if just the gear ratio is different. But keep in mind that the new hose doesnt come with the o-rings so be sure to order those at the same time. I had to buy them separately and paid $10 shipping for a $.50 o-ring!

BTW - its not a kit, you have to buy each hose separately. They cost $30-75 each depending on each one and it seems the shorter the hose and less stainless tubing - the more expensive!!
 
Last edited:

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
And yeah, I found my leak the last time out and even though its a really small one I wont take it out until I get it fixed. Dont want to be putting oil in the water or water to get into my system either. But it looks like its going to be a pain to put it on. I cant get to the hose so it looks like I need to take the whole darn stern drive off.
 

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Dang this is really becoming an ridiculous hassle considering I just need to replace a STINKING HOSE! I pulled the drive but the freaking pivot unit is in the way and I cant get the pivot pins loose. I heated them, I oiled them, I freaking stood on the socket wrench and they wont budge. Thinking it would have been easier to just buy a new freaking boat! Or take it to the shop I guess!! I cant believe how difficult it is to change a little hose. Oh man I am SO FRUSTRATED with this thing!!
 

trippledigitss

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
33
Just a little update - I was able to finally get my hose replaced and everything back together. I never did get the pivot pins loose but I was able to remove the u joint and exhaust bellows and reach thru the pivot housing to remove it.

The fitting was stuck in the distribution block pretty tight but I cut the tubing like Baja suggested and used an 11mm box wrench to turn it out. I was only able to turn it less than 1/8th of turn at a time so it took awhile but it worked. After all of that I realized the hose they send me was the upper port, not the lower, so it fit very tightly next to the existing upper hose - but the problem was where it connects to the cylinder. The correct lower hose is straight at that point whereas the upper one kinks up to clear the lower. I just 'customized' the tubing a little and bent it down for the clearance. Its been under pressure for nearly a week and no leaks yet! *fingers crossed*!! I am going to grease up the u joints zirk and fill the lower unit with gear oil then hopefully get her out for a test run tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help on here guys! It really was frustrating as hell but I got her fixed and saved a lot of dough! And just in time for the 7/1 chinook opener!! Happy summer and safe boating to you all!
 

bajaunderground

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
1,401
Just a little update - I was able to finally get my hose replaced and everything back together. I never did get the pivot pins loose but I was able to remove the u joint and exhaust bellows and reach thru the pivot housing to remove it.

The fitting was stuck in the distribution block pretty tight but I cut the tubing like Baja suggested and used an 11mm box wrench to turn it out. I was only able to turn it less than 1/8th of turn at a time so it took awhile but it worked. After all of that I realized the hose they send me was the upper port, not the lower, so it fit very tightly next to the existing upper hose - but the problem was where it connects to the cylinder. The correct lower hose is straight at that point whereas the upper one kinks up to clear the lower. I just 'customized' the tubing a little and bent it down for the clearance. Its been under pressure for nearly a week and no leaks yet! *fingers crossed*!! I am going to grease up the u joints zirk and fill the lower unit with gear oil then hopefully get her out for a test run tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help on here guys! It really was frustrating as hell but I got her fixed and saved a lot of dough! And just in time for the 7/1 chinook opener!! Happy summer and safe boating to you all!

Good job, just keep an eye on how the hoses rub the housing and each other...I'm replacing mine this fall, no leaks, just changing out to my newer rams, which use shorter hoses.
 
Top