2004 SX-M Trim Sender

[trippledigitss]

Hello everyone, I cant find my darn repair manual anywhere to lookup the correct part number for the trim sender on my outdrive. I am not getting a correct reading on my gauge so I want to see about replacing it and want to get an idea of the cost - which looks like about $150?

I have read several of the threads here and am going to try the test, repair, and splicing suggestions I found here. And thanks to Don S for posting the PDF on replacing it, very helpful with great diagrams!!

I havent pulled it yet or traced the wiring so I dont know if it is the 2 or 3 wire. But from what I am finding here and from other online parts diagrams, the correct P/N # is 3594989. Does it look like I am on the right track?? Thanks for any help!

 

[Thalasso]

Save your money because the new one isn't going to work any better. The Volvo trim senders are junk.
Get used to doing it by ear (sound) and feel
Mine quit working right after year 1

 

[Fun Times]

Sort of depends on what style trim gauge you have whether it be digital or analog to choose the correct sending unit. Part number 3594989 is technically designed for the analog gauge. See item numbers 1 or 7, http://www.volvopentastore.com/Trim...on_id.990648949--store_id.366--view_id.783189

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...on_id.990648949--store_id.366--view_id.765224

 

[spoilsofwar]

For what it's worth, my SX-A has been operating on a spliced trim sender for going on two seasons now. It is the original sender to the boat, from 2012. The only reason I needed to do the splice in the first place was because the drive pinched the wires and cut thru the insulation. I repositioned the wires after the splice, and it's been good since.

 

[trippledigitss]

OK, thanks for the info guys.

Yeah, Thalasso, I use feel and sound now and am just fine with that. I dont really have a "need" for the gauge other than I would like to know when I have it trimmed up high. I like to trim it up as much as possible without cavitation or running it 'dry'. Mostly because I want all my gauges to work as intended and that is the only one not working!

Fun Times - thanks for the links, I will check them out on my lunch break today. I am pretty sure it is just a basic analog, its just the needle that points up or down, not a digital display but I dont know if that means the inner workings could still be digital? I was working on my trailer this weekend so I didnt get a chance to pull the sender and look at it yet.

Spoils - very good to know! I would really like to save that $150 so I can buy some new hydro hose for my trim cylinders. The lower port one started leaking last weekend and I cant tell if its the fitting or where the hose attaches to the fitting.

Any of you guys know if there are o-rings on those trim hoses? I rebuilt port ram a few months ago but I cannot remember for the life of me!!??

Thanks again for the help!!

 

[Fun Times]

Fun Times -I am pretty sure it is just a basic analog, its just the needle that points up or down, not a digital display but I dont know if that means the inner workings could still be digital?

Most likely it's just an analog gauge as that is the most common. When you get a chance just walk by the outside 'starboard side' of the boat by the stern drive and count how many wires are coming off of/out of the trim sending unit. It will be 2 or 3 wires.

I would really like to save that $150 so I can buy some new hydro hose for my trim cylinders. The lower port one started leaking last weekend and I cant tell if its the fitting or where the hose attaches to the fitting.

Any of you guys know if there are o-rings on those trim hoses? I rebuilt port ram a few months ago but I cannot remember for the life of me!!??

Yes there are O-rings, item number 13, http://www.volvopentastore.com/Trim...on_id.285930759--store_id.366--view_id.783187

Volvo O-ring part number 3852165, http://www.iboats.com/O-Ring/dm/cart_id.015895223--session_id.944143737--view_id.290478 , Or Aftermarket Sierra # 18-7141-9, http://www.iboats.com/O-Ring-18-714...5895223--session_id.455638392--view_id.171883

The fitting could just be loose or the O-ring is now distorted due to last servicing done. To avoid water getting in the system, new O-rings would be best.

 

[trippledigitss]

Yeah I found that parts diagram after I replied - but thanks for the info! I kinda chewed up the nut on the fitting by not using a flare nut wrench so I ordered a new one today and will just replace it all together.

I will check out the sending unit in the next or two.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[trippledigitss]

So I looked at the trim sender and its a 2 wire. I took it off and looked at the wires everywhere I could see and they look fine. As I twisted the dial inside the needle jumped up & down but wouldnt read consistently. Now I am thinking its the sender and not the wires?

 

[Fun Times]

Typically when the sender jumps around and will not stay within a normal working range on the gauge or (for testing purposes) while connected to a multimeter set to the ohms scale, the sender has most likely failed internally due to water/moisture accumulation. Either way, a new sender would be needed to make the trim gauge work normal again....If desired.

 

[trippledigitss]

Ok, thanks fun. That's a bummer, I hate to spend the money for 'non-essential' equipment especially if they are low quality as Thalasso says. But oh well, guess that's what I have to do if I want the gauge working.

 

[monster1]

The problem with these senders is that the wires aren't sealed properly. The manufacturer put a rubber boot over the wires and called it a day.

 

[trippledigitss]

Then maybe I should put some epoxy or some sort of sealant around the boot where the wires go into the sender housing? I've done that to reinforce and protect other things before and it worked great.

 

[bruceb58]

I replaced mine some years back. If it goes out again, I am not replacing it. It's a pretty useless gauge.

 

[monster1]

Then maybe I should put some epoxy or some sort of sealant around the boot where the wires go into the sender housing? I've done that to reinforce and protect other things before and it worked great.

Yeah I'd pull the boot up and put some 4200 where the wires go into the switch housing and slide the boot back down.