Volvo Penta AQ 231/285 Intermediate Bearings

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
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One of my 20' Skipjacks has the referenced VP out-drive setup and I've received some conflicting information on the state of the intermediate bearings in the flywheel housing.

First question, is there anyway to determine if the bearings are going south short of pulling the outdrive and engine?

Second question, when the bearings fail is it catastrophic, or will there be forewarning? One mechanic says he can hear the bearing, the other said nothing.

If and when I do this, what other service should be done, and any estimate of shop hours for this work?

I'd like to do it myself but don't think I'm setup with the tools and time for such a significant job. Thoughts?

I'm looking for a good mechanic in the South San Francisco Bay area of California if anyone has a reference.

Thanks,
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I would learn to work on the stuff yourself. you will need to pull the drive (about an hour). then you will need to pull the motor (about an hour) to get to the PDS shaft and bearings. then you will need to put it back together.

while apart, I would put new bushings and seals on the steering helmet/yoke, and take care of the rust on your oil pan.
 

jerryjerry05

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To check the bearings: since there are 2 in the V-8 setups, you need a long screwdriver or
something you can hold to your ear and hold against the housing.
​Start the motor and listen to the bearing noise.
Hold it first on the front of the housing and then the back.
If there is any change in the noise it probably needs to be changed??
A bad bearing noise is pretty evident.

But?? If a "trained" mechanic suggested there is a problem?? there probably is.

There should be a grease fitting on the top of the flywheel housing.
Try greasing this and see if it makes a difference?
 

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
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Good advice Scott and Jerry. I'll listen and see what I find.

As I've never taken an engine out of a boat, what's the best way to lift? Cherry picker in the cockpit, rent a gantry, chainfall on garage header?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Growing up, we had an over-head trolley and chain-fall in the garage. 10' ceilings and a heavy I-beam spanning the width of the garage

many times, I had simply made uprights with qty 5 2x6's screwed together (center 3 8" shorter than outer 2), and a beam out of 3 2x10's sitting on top. stabilized them against the garage walls (as well as the rented storage units walls) with a few 2x4's screwed to the wall. used a chainfall / come-along

This last time, I used the overhead crane at work.

I wouldnt put a cherry picker in the boat, the wheels would probably punch thru the deck, and you need to get the motor out of the boat.

I have used a cherry picker, and ran the trailer on just the hubs to lower it enough to get the motor over the transom

Many have a wrecker with a boom as well
 

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
Messages
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Ok thanks for the pick information. I think I may have a friend with a hoist.

I listened through the housing for the bearing and definitely hear something spinning in there, but have no frame of reference to know whether it is good or bad. It's not loud, and cannot be heard without applying my crowbar to the housing with one ear against the other end.

I see no real noticeable difference from the top of the housing to the end of the housing either. When I added grease there was no change in the sound.

I'm leaning toward using the boat and monitoring the noise coming from the housing. Thoughts?
 

jeffnick

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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May 24, 2004
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You can get a mechanic's stethoscope for about $20.
mechanics_stethoscope.jpg


I'd likely check it regularly over the season and run it. Is there anyone nearby with a similar rig you could use as a baseline?

My 250 Aquamatic was 40 years old when I bought it, so I pulled the drive, then the motor and had the drive resealed and intermediate bearings done at a shop. There were no local shops that worked on anything that old so I schlepped the parts over 100 miles to a shop that would do the work. Now being familiar with the rig, I'd probably do it myself next time.

I removed the drive as one unit (solo).

This is how I got my motor out without help:
IMAG0983.jpg

.
 

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
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65
I'm gonna check the outer stuff when I replace the bellows this weekend, and evaluate then. I'll monitor it, and hit the inside stuff as needed.

JeffNick, How'd you mount the lift in the boat; deck with some plywood?
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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You can pull the motor without pulling the bellhousing if your real tight on space??
 

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
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Still waiting on some of the o-rings to get going on the bellows change, u-joint and intermediate bearing investigation.

Question is, I believe there is a better intermediate bearing replacement out there which is sealed. Anyone here familiar with replacing these bearings with a sealed version? And where do you get the sealed replacement variety.

Thanks,
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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You can try Grainger.
​But NO sealed bearing is fool proof.
They go bad just about as fast as a regular bearing.

If you install the seals and bearings the right way and grease it on a regular basis.
You shouldn't have trouble.

99.9% don't know there is a grease zerk to lube the bearings.
And 99% don't own a grease gun.
And if they do own one it doesn't have marine grease in it.

Bought a 32 Bayliner with twin AQ260 with 280 drives and had to change the bearings.

I pulled them and both sets of bearings had NEVER been greased.
The bad part was the boat was owned by a Volvo Tech??????

While you have it out, check the oil pan. Both of mine needed changing.
 

Hook'd

Seaman
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Jan 24, 2016
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Thanks Jerry. Where did you get the oil sump. I've tried the part number form volvo schematics, and noone has it; 856437.
 
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