Winterizing

[Lawnpro979]

Sorry to sound dumb, But I'm new to my inboard Volvo Penta 4.3 I live in Texas, and was wondering if there is a step by step process for this ?
Maybe already on the site somewhere. I haven't found it.
I'm wondering Living where I do. Will I even need to Winterize?

Thanks

 

[littlerayray]

Depends on how cold it gets over the winter

 

[littlerayray]

Do you keep your boat inside if it's kept inside a light to keep the block from freezing and opening the petcocks to drain the block adding a fuel stabilizer as well as fogging the motor it's not as involved as people think I got my boat winterized with antifreeze in less then two hrs don't forget to change the lower unit oil as well as motor oil and fuel water separator

 

[BRICH1260]

If you know that you are not going to be using the boat for several more months, even though you are in TX, I would go ahead and drain the block and manifolds. Look for plastic screw in plugs on each side of the block down low just above the oil pan. Screw out the plugs and poke a nail up in there just in case of a blockage. Then do the same to each manifold. Do this at a minimum.

 

[further]

Hey there Lawnpro979... There's lots of good info in the Adults only sticky at the top of the forum including all kinds of good info on winterizing. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...183345-how-to-winterize-your-engine-and-drive
Tailored for merc's but the process is the same.

Also lots of vids on you tube as well but you need to weed through to get the good ones.

Depends on how cold it gets where you live, if there is a chance of freezing i wouldn't hesitate to drain the block and manifolds at minimum.

I normally do the following to put mine to sleep for winter (I like to change all my fluids now so I'm good to go in the spring - only thing I do in the spring is replace the impeller):

• Top off fuel and add stabilizer
• Run engine to operating temp to circulate fuel (on muffs of course)
• Change oil/filter
• Change drive oil
• Change fuel filter
• Run engine and fog oil into carb
• Drain engine per manual (link to manual at top of the forum). This is where there is lots of debate between leaving the motor dry, backfilling with antifreeze through the hoses or running antifreeze through the muffs into the engine. Many will say air don't freeze so just drain it and be done. I like the anti corrosive properties of the stuff I use so I just backfill through the hoses and thermostat to fill it up as much as I can. You'll have to make the call based on the chances of freezing where you are. I'm in the northeast and regularly see below 0 temps so any water left will be an issue.
• Remove drive, check bellows (replace if needed) check alignment, gimbal bearing and grease gimbal if all good. I store my drive in my garage and throw it back on in the spring. If storing with the drive on, make sure the drive is down so you don't stress the bellows and let water drain out.

I'm sure there's something i'm missing but this is the general guideline I use and all has been fine.
Good luck!

 

[Bondo]

I'm wondering Living where I do. Will I even need to Winterize?

Ayuh,.... If it ever goes below freezin', you'll wish you'd atleast drained the water out of it,.....

 

[Alaboat]

Hey there Lawnpro979... There's lots of good info in the Adults only sticky at the top of the forum including all kinds of good info on winterizing. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...183345-how-to-winterize-your-engine-and-drive
Tailored for merc's but the process is the same.

Also lots of vids on you tube as well but you need to weed through to get the good ones.

Depends on how cold it gets where you live, if there is a chance of freezing i wouldn't hesitate to drain the block and manifolds at minimum.

I normally do the following to put mine to sleep for winter (I like to change all my fluids now so I'm good to go in the spring - only thing I do in the spring is replace the impeller):

• Top off fuel and add stabilizer
• Run engine to operating temp to circulate fuel (on muffs of course)
• Change oil/filter
• Change drive oil
• Change fuel filter
• Run engine and fog oil into carb
• Drain engine per manual (link to manual at top of the forum). This is where there is lots of debate between leaving the motor dry, backfilling with antifreeze through the hoses or running antifreeze through the muffs into the engine. Many will say air don't freeze so just drain it and be done. I like the anti corrosive properties of the stuff I use so I just backfill through the hoses and thermostat to fill it up as much as I can. You'll have to make the call based on the chances of freezing where you are. I'm in the northeast and regularly see below 0 temps so any water left will be an issue.
• Remove drive, check bellows (replace if needed) check alignment, gimbal bearing and grease gimbal if all good. I store my drive in my garage and throw it back on in the spring. If storing with the drive on, make sure the drive is down so you don't stress the bellows and let water drain out.

I'm sure there's something i'm missing but this is the general guideline I use and all has been fine.
Good luck!

Not to hijack this thread but get further clarification for running antifreeze through engine. I looked into buying (or building) something like the Camco 65501 DIY boat winterizer. In their instruction manual, they indicated that for most VP engines, do not fill through muffs but through an adapter(either theirs or homemade) that hooks the fill tank to the suction side of the raw water pump. The only time you would use the muffs is if your engine has the raw water pump mounted inside the outdrive. Does this sound like good info? There is only one water pump on the 4.3 VP and its on the front of engine and is belt driven right?

 

[littlerayray]

If your gonna add antifreeze disconnect the hoses frome either side of the water pump with the petcocks open add till it trickles out to push remaining water out after that close the pet cocks and add more do not use the muffs It won't work

 

[littlerayray]

My little 3.0 mercruiser took about 2 gallons to fill the block I also ran some down the raw water exhaust hose

 

[further]

There are literally hundreds of posts and discussions on running antifreeze through the engine with muffs. One of the main arguments against is that the motor needs to reach operating temp for the tstat to open and properly circulate to replace any water and if it by chance doesn't open you run the risk of not replacing all the water with antifreeze. I drained and back filled the hoses with af last fall and we had several below zero days and no issues.

 

[Lawnpro979]

Yea, It does from time to time get to freezing here, Cant take a chance..... it will be keep inside. but it's a detached Garage. I did check some you tube videos and your right Have to weed out the good from the bad..... were Having VERY warm weather here. Today was 94. Looks like all week and in to next will be about the same..." HA HA HAHAAAA " Sorry just had to throw that in there.......... I have looked at the help section Great info there. Not sure If I have to go through all that. I may For this 1st time take it to a local boat shop and let them do it....I need more education on boats.

Thanks ev1

 

[Alaboat]

There are literally hundreds of posts and discussions on running antifreeze through the engine with muffs. One of the main arguments against is that the motor needs to reach operating temp for the tstat to open and properly circulate to replace any water and if it by chance doesn't open you run the risk of not replacing all the water with antifreeze. I drained and back filled the hoses with af last fall and we had several below zero days and no issues.

The shop that repowered my boat this summer suggested that a drain and no fill was okay but strongly recommended AF with anti corrosion properties be added. His premise was that since we have hot and cold days throughout the winter here in north Alabama, the heat and resultant condensation provides just the right atmosphere to promote internal corrosion. Makes sense to me since I have seen that on the outside of my engine all cooped up in the engine bay.My exhaust manifolds and risers were also new this summer so it makes sense to do whatever it takes to slow down corrosion If I were to backfill with AF while running, I would remove the thermostat during the process to ensure thorough backfill. Thoughts?