Flappers in Volvo Penta SX drive Please Help

ron3033

Seaman
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Sep 10, 2012
Messages
57
I found 2 things about flappers but need some help to not get in a jam. Further steps(What to undo and what to move) to check and remove flappers or how to get out if they did fall out. This what I found: On pics below you will need to enlarge
So do I do this????
1. Undo part 40
2. Undo part 41
3. remove or turn part 27 elbow
4. flapper is just under part 41 rubber?? where flapper is located in pipe 28 ??
5. So does this just unbolt if there? (how do you keep from falling into pipe tie with wire?)
6. if flapper has fallen into pipe what are the steps to get the bits and pieces out? what tricks work. How do I know if flappers are gone before I start? How do I know if I got all the bits out?

My boat is 1995 5 litre ford, Volvo Penta Sx drive... so I assume if they are still there I should take them out before they do fall??
I assume this can all be done in the boat, but will mean some twisting around as I am 6' 2"
Thanks I know it is a lot to ask.ron3033
 

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Sparkinator

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 15, 2009
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I've got the same drive you've got, and I found mine melted and in the foot. It's pretty common. Have you ever pulled your drive? Good chance that's where yours are. If they are still intact, I'd leave them alone. If you feel you must remove them, and they fall into your Y-pipe, you can pull your drive and retrieve them easily enough.
 

ron3033

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Sep 10, 2012
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Thank you Sir

I had the drive off last fall, 2 hours to get back on, hardest I ever had to get back on, (just me too old, it too heavy and I guess the trailer was tilted too low... the spline is like trying to thread a needle with spaghetti. Got to figure out how to build a wood stand about right height... saw lots in a forum, nice welded ones with tongue jacks ... but I don't weld.

1. So where do you look for these pieces in the drive if my flappers have let go?
2. Where do I look and use coat hanger wire, needle nose??
3. If in the y pipe they can be pulled out through the pivot housing or do you snake them back up the Y pipe.?
4. does pivot need to come off?

5. I have 5 litre Ford ran 150 to 160 on gauge and 181 to189 at thermostat housing and 170 to 174 at car water pump on front of engine. (Boat for years ran 132 to 135, later 140 on145.) What does your boat run at? am I okay in the 150 160 range on guage and 181 to 189 on thermostat housing?

6. Have you ever had to replace your trim sender? Mine works, not smooth and does not give a correct position. I suspect water has it corroded. I was worried it might be the one piece dash always leery of them.

Thank You again and if you could spare me a little more of your knowledge to answer these questions I would be greatfull:D. Thanks ron3033
 

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Sparkinator

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My flappers were melted and in the foot. They had passed through the Y-pipe and collected in the foot. When looking at them, I couldn't figure out what they were until i worked them loose and pulled them out. Once I got them out, I put two and two together and figured out they were by flappers. I was surprised they hadn't blocked water flow and caused heating issues.

If I remember correctly, I had the drive off and I was rebuilding my transom. I was just looking the drive over really good, and noticed something down in the exhaust. I worked them loose with a screwdriver and drug them out on the ground. No telling how long they had been down in there.

They got hot enough to melt, but the weren't fluid enough to exhaust out through the prop. They just stuck there right before they got to the prop.

Pivot doesn't have to come off. But the drive does. If you have a lot of trouble getting the drive back on, I wouldn't worry about the flappers, unless you start to overheat.

My trim sender loses position occasionally, but when I lower it all the way down, it picks it back up and works fairly smoothly. I've never really had any issues with it.
 

ron3033

Seaman
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Sep 10, 2012
Messages
57
Thank You Sir for your help about flappers and temperature and trim sender. I will monitor the temp and maybe this fall put new thermostat in, as it is the original. Do you happen to know the temp. that is stamped on it? I think it must have an o ring as well as a new gasket.

I would hope my flappers are okay as the boat does not have likely more than 450 hours and runs freshwater and trailered home after use.

Thanks
ron3033 :joyous:
 
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4now04

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Sep 25, 2010
Messages
53
If you are not losing power, I would not be in a hurry to remove them. I did have one come loose on my Four Winns 95 190 Horizon. 5.0 EFI Ford. Loosen the clamps on the rubber hoses that hold the exhaust elbows to the High rise exhaust manifold and to the Y pipe. Slide the hoses and the elbows can be removed. The flappers should be in each top end of the Y pipe. My flappers were a rubber coated metal part. One of mine was restricting exhaust where the exhaust passes through the transom. We were able to disconnect the exhaust bellows, feed a wire down from the top of the Y pipe, hook the flapper and pull it up through the Y pipe. You should also remove the anode on the bottom of the transom shield to check for the pin. I found one there. There is no reason to remove the engine or the outdrive. A previous poster said their flappers were plastic. The part that puzzles me is why they melt down stream in the lower unit when they don't melt near the top of the Y pipe where the temp is hotter?
 
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Sparkinator

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Aug 15, 2009
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Ron--
Just got back from the lake, and my temp was running at the mark after 150 on the gauge. I would guess it would be 170? (the next mark after 150) whatever that is. It was staying on that mark consistently. I'm not sure what is stamped on the thermostat. I just bought whatever the supplier had (if I'm assuming that mark is 170, then I would HAVE to assume it is a 170 thermostat) :lol:

Or I guess I could research the thermostat and then determine what the mark on the temp gauge actually is.

I just run by the gauge on the boat, cause I don't have a temp gun.

Oh and by the way. Just so you know (I didn't). There is an o-ring that holds the thermostat in place in the housing. Remove the o-ring, and the thermostat will come right out. I ripped my old thermostat apart getting it out of the housing, and then I found the o-ring that was holding it in place.
 
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ron3033

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Sep 10, 2012
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Sparkinator and Thalasso

I think the next one to 150 degrees is 180. I did a quick pencil drawing. From left side of temp guage, low is 120 and goes up in 10 intervals. After 150 it goes up in 30 degree intervals. see attached drawing. Sorry about clarity, scan was too large to insert even after Photo Shopped, so I took a picture. I think you can see what is there, you may have to zoom.

Ever change the trim sender unit in the drive? .... dealer near by want $280 for part and $400 labour.

ron3033
 

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skydiveD30571

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Ron to answer your question about removing the rubber exhaust boots. When you loosen the 4 clamps for the top rubber boot, you'll be able to slide it forward towards the riser. When you loosen the 4 clamps on the lower exhaust boot, you'll be able to slide it either up or down which then makes the elbow free to remove. Flappers are installed underneath the lower part of the bottom rubber boot, in the top of the y-pipe.
 

ron3033

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Sep 10, 2012
Messages
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If you are not losing power, I would not be in a hurry to remove them. I did have one come loose on my Four Winns 95 190 Horizon. 5.0 EFI Ford. Loosen the clamps on the rubber hoses that hold the exhaust elbows to the High rise exhaust manifold and to the Y pipe. Slide the hoses and the elbows can be removed. The flappers should be in each top end of the Y pipe. My flappers were a rubber coated metal part. One of mine was restricting exhaust where the exhaust passes through the transom. We were able to disconnect the exhaust bellows, feed a wire down from the top of the Y pipe, hook the flapper and pull it up through the Y pipe. You should also remove the anode on the bottom of the transom shield to check for the pin. I found one there. There is no reason to remove the engine or the outdrive. A previous poster said their flappers were plastic>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

. The part that puzzles me is why they melt down stream in the lower unit when they don't melt near the top of the Y pipe where the temp is hotter


Just a thought, maybe they melt up top and drop and get cooled and congeal in the bottom of the Y pipe as the water runs on them and the anode is in the cold water too. Just a thought maybe way off. I did talk to a former marine mechanic, he said leave them if you can as they keep the water out especially backing down a ramp and if a boat sits docked in waves. More food for thought. Also see the attached photo, hope it is readable. hard to know what is okay.

Is your boat any noisier and did you remove the one that did not drop??
 

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