1968 ESKA 5hp lower unit lube question

kcsguide

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1968 Eska model 1185, 5hp, SN: T-634-07E. I Just got this motor and as I am servicing it, I drained the lower unit lubricant and very little came out. I even blew in the upper hole (fill hole) with an air hose and still just got some splatters to come out. The lower hole is much smaller and is labeled "vent". I even layed it on its side and still only a couple of drips more came out. Then I started squeezing some fresh lower unit lube into the fill hole and it immediately started draining out of the vent hole. I couldn't have gotten more than a teaspoon in there. Am I missing something? Does this model require you to open the gear housing and grease it?
Thanks in advance for any advice with this issue.
 

steelespike

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Instructions say sae 90 gear lube, remove both plugs lay on its side to drain.With it upright fill from the lower hole till comes out the upper hole.
With tip still in lower hole install upper plug then the lower plug.
 

tomhath

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According to the manual I have it calls for normal 90wt gear lube:

"Remove drain plug (D) from starboard side of gearcase and filler plug (F) from opposite (port) side. Lay the motor on its side with the filler plug up and fill the gearcase until the level reaches drain plug hole."
 

kcsguide

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The lower hole on the starboard side, which is labeled vent, is too small to make the tip of the 90 wt gear lube fit into or even onto the hole to fill from the bottom. What I ended up doing was to remove the prop and then the 4 screws from the gear box below to see what was going on inside. There was probably a couple of tablespoons of gear lube still in it, (don't know why it wouldn't drain out) and then the bottom of the space up to the bottom of the gears was filled with what I decided was sludge. I cleaned it all out real well, fabricated a new gasket from some gasket material, put it back together, squeezed the gear oil into the fill hole until it came out of the vent hole which amounted to about 3 ounces, put both screws back in and called it good. By the way, are the manuals that you guys have specific to the 1968 5 hp, model 1185? someone emailed me the pdf of the manual for 1969 and newer and it has differences, such as the lower unit details that we've been talking about as well as the recommended spark plugs that have too long of a reach so that if gapped at the recommended .030, would contact the piston at top dead center. I even contacted a man that was selling a manual that should have covered that model but he said it didn't even mention spark plugs.
 

tomhath

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The service manual I have is published by Clymer "Volume 1 Provides coverage for motors below 30 horsepower prior to 1969". It has a separate section for each manufacturer, but the instructions and diagrams are usually good enough. I should've mentioned that it does suggest doing what you did anyway, open the gearcase and clean/inspect before refilling.

The spark plug depends on what powerhead is on it; probably a J13Y plug. There should be a small metal tag attached to the motor with the Tecumseh number on it. If you can find that you can get parts at most small engine shops.
 

kcsguide

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The J13Y is the one that my manual suggests which I haven't been able to find or an Autolite 86 which I did find along with the acdelco plug that it cross referenced with. Both of them had a 13mm reach which is right where the piston is. That's too close unless I gap it to .025.
 

steelespike

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J13YC J=dimension ,14mm thread,3/8" reach,13= heat range,Y=projected core (beyond insulator tip.C= copper core.
C is really of no matter. A J12Y would work just a step colder.When substituting a plug your safer to go slightly cooler if not a perfect heat range match.
I looked up J13Y matches there was something like 20 plugs of various brands.
My 4 aftermasrket manuals all list J13Y for all the Eskas(5 models) listed in manuals about your motors age.
 
Last edited:

robert graham

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1968 Eska model 1185, 5hp, SN: T-634-07E. I Just got this motor and as I am servicing it, I drained the lower unit lubricant and very little came out. I even blew in the upper hole (fill hole) with an air hose and still just got some splatters to come out. The lower hole is much smaller and is labeled "vent". I even layed it on its side and still only a couple of drips more came out. Then I started squeezing some fresh lower unit lube into the fill hole and it immediately started draining out of the vent hole. I couldn't have gotten more than a teaspoon in there. Am I missing something? Does this model require you to open the gear housing and grease it?
Thanks in advance for any advice with this issue.
Might be a good idea to Remove that gear housing plate to clean/inspect gears and bearings....If your gasket tears up use silicone in place of gasket...
 

kcsguide

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Yep, I did that and everything was in great shape. After that I was able to get about 3 ounces of 90 wt in it. All that's left is to test run it.
 

robert graham

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After you run it check the fluid for water leaking in through those old seals especially if you're in saltwater....replacements for the old gears and bearings could be hard to come by and just a little saltwater will eat them up.....
 

kcsguide

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I'm Strictly a fresh water guy up here in Utah. I did put a new gasket in when I put the gearbox back together.
 

kcsguide

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Thanks for all the help! Now it's time to get started on the Chrysler 90hp........
 
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