Information on 1958 and 59 Scott Atwater 60 HP outboards with generators

latemodel

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Hello,

I have owned and worked with a number of 60 HP and 75 HP Scott three cylinders outboards, but never a generator model. In 1958 Scott marketed their first three cylinder outboard. It was rated at 60 HP. It had an automotive type generator and used three sets of points driven off the bottom of the generator. It also had a remote mounted relay/voltage regulator control box and a dash panel with an overheat and generator (charging) light.
The 59 model was almost the same and still used the generator.
In 1960 Scott made a number of major changes to the 60 HP. The generator was replaced with a flywheel alternator. The control panel was smaller and the indicator lights disappeared. The relay and regulator box also disappeared and the entire wiring system was streamlined. Finally, the three points/three coil system was replaced with a distributor and a single coil. In 1961 Scott upped the 60 to 75 HP and the 60 HP was discontinued.
I am currently restoring a 1957 Herters Flying Fish and want to use a Scott 60 HP, but ACBS judging requires the motor be within two years either way of the boat build year. I decided to use a 58 or 59 generator version 60 HP. I found both a 58 and a 59 and bought both. One will be a parts motor.
My problem is that all my Scott factory parts and service manuals are for 1960 and up three cylinders and I have not been able to locate a service manual or wiring diagram for the generator version. Unlike the 1960 and newer three cylinders, Scott did not put a wiring diagram in the inside of the hood. There is a relay/regulator box hook up diagram, but no system diagram.
I would like to purchase a 58 or 59 service manual or wiring diagram, or possibly trade Scott parts for them. I have been all over the internet including Discount Marine and Liangs looking for a manual.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

Don
Lakeville, MN
 
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latemodel

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[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Yes, but sadly the Scott Guy passed away in May of this year. His son-law is still doing impellers and maintaining a website. The website states that the entire collection of parts and motors is for sale in it's entirety, but there is no indication anything else is for sale other than impellers. I might email him and see if he at least might be able to find acopy of the diagram otherwise I'll just have to keep digging. Thanks for the reply.
Don [FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 

brim_buster

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[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Yes, but sadly the Scott Guy passed away in May of this year. His son-law is still doing impellers and maintaining a website. The website states that the entire collection of parts and motors is for sale in it's entirety, but there is no indication anything else is for sale other than impellers. I might email him and see if he at least might be able to find acopy of the diagram otherwise I'll just have to keep digging. Thanks for the reply.
Don [FONT=&quot][/FONT]
My manual has the info your looking for. It shows the breakdown of both types if you want a copy Private message me your email and I will send you a copy.
 

F_R

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Not exactly what you are looking for, but I believe I have the parts books for models 332 and 332A, if you need a copy.
 

latemodel

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F-R,

Thanks for the reply. I have the 1959 Parts Manual for the 1959 332A. I don't have the 1958 332 parts manual, but I am assuming it has almost the same info as the 59.
I am looking for the factory service manual for either the 1958 or 59 60 HP motor. From at least 1960 on, Scott published a service manual that covered all the HP models for each year. I am going to attampt to attach a pic from e-bay that shows the 1961 version.
I would be intersted in the 332 parts manual. I would be willing to purchase a copy, but my real need right now is the 58 or 59 service manual or the wiring diagrams for those motors. Thanks.

Don
 

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F_R

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PM me your e-mail address and I'll send copies of the parts list. No charge.
 

F_R

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Message never got here. So I tried to send you one. It said I have 339 stored messages and over the limit. I can't find any to delete. So I guess I can't be reached.
 

latemodel

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F_R

Let's try this.

moparhemi34 at integra dot net

I hope this doesn't go against any of the forum policies.
 

latemodel

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An update to my search for a 1957-59 Scott Atwater factory service manual.
After searching the internet and posting ads in forums, I finally found the elusive 57-59 Scott service manual in of all places, Amazon Books!
Amazon was the only internet hit that even acknowledged the existence of a 57-59 manual; however, they didn’t have one and didn’t know if they ever would get one. Fortunately, they had a “Find it in a library” option. I clicked on that and the Amazon library search turned up one copy. It was in Adelaide Australia. An obscure 55-year-old US outboard manual, and the only copy I could find is 9600 miles away.
I contacted them and they emailed me back that they could copy the 430 pages (actually 215 pages with two sides to a page) and ship it to me. That turned out to be a bit pricey. The second option they offered was to ship the manual itself (just shipping charges) or a copy (copying fees plus shipping), to a local library for a much more reasonable fee, but I would not be allowed to take it off the library premises. I suppose I could copy it there, but that could get to be expensive.
I see the 1946 to 1956 Scott factory service manuals on ebay all the time. The 1960 to 1966 individual year manuals are not too difficult to find, but just my luck the 1957-59 manual only shows up in Australia.
I need to talk to my library, as the price of a copy to them is almost a third of what it is to me and see if we can’t work out something that will get me a copy at a reasonable price.
If I can’t work out some way to get a personal copy through my library I am probably going to bite the bullet and order direct from Australia. There has to be some satisfaction derived from owning the only known existing Scott Atwater 1957-59 service manual in the US.
Don
 

latemodel

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Well, I finally found the wiring diagrams I was looking for for 58 and 59 Scott three cylinder 60 hp models. They are located in a manual called Scott Atwater Service manual Volume 2. It contains all the service information for all Scott motors built in 1957/58/59.
I added the diagrams to this post in case someone else is looking for them. The 1958 hood has no wiring information on the inside of the hood and the 59 hood has only a wiring hookup diagram for the control box, and dash control box, to the motor.
I?m not sure how readable they will be in their posted form. If any one needs a full size copy, PM me.
Don
 

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Willyclay

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Well, I finally found the wiring diagrams I was looking for for 58 and 59 Scott three cylinder 60 hp models.

Don, I'm tagging along your thread because of the many fond memories of skiing behind a Flying Scott 60 when I was a pup. Glad you finally found the service manual you needed. Hopefully, you will post some pictures of that beauty when restored including some of the Flying Fish. Good luck with that classic project!
 

latemodel

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Wiily,
Thanks for the kind reply. I have just got started on the 58. I have disassembled, and am now rebuilding the lower unit and pump housing. If no one minds I can keep this thread going as I do the motor. I have learned a lot about the differences of the 58/59 from the 1960 model and even the differences between the 58 from the 59 already.
I'll shoot a few pics on thelower unit this weekend.
In between working on the motor I am also doing a 1957 Flying Fish Deluxe to mount it on. It now has fresh gelcoat and I am starting the rigging and hardware mountinng.
Don
 

Vintin

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Hi Don, thanks for a timely thread! Please do keep us posted on your progress. I just picked up a 1960 Flying Scott 60hp I hope to use on my 1958 FeatherCraft Vagabond. I've not bought a service and parts manual but will be soon. I'm searching for a tach also. Here are some photos:
001.jpg
015.jpg
037.jpg
031.jpg
 
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latemodel

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VinTinFan,

I just finished a 1960 60 HP Scott a few months ago. I attached a pic.
How do you get your pics to display in the large format? I can attach them, but they display in a small size. I need to revirew the pic instructions again I guess.
Your 1960 model is a much easier motor to work on than the 58/59 because it doesn't have the generator and three coil ignition system with the points on the bottom of the generator. I would have prefered to use a 60, but for ACBS shows my motor has to be within two years of my 57 Herters boat to avoid a point reduction so I went with the 58.
Your motor looks very clean. You may want to check your distributor to see if you have tach points. Note on your wiring diagram there are three extra wires coming out of the distributor that go to the tach. The Scott factory tach has to have a special set of points in the distributor to operate the tach and many motors were built without tach points. They are difficult, but not impossible to find.
As for manuals, I may have an extra 1960 as I just bought some manuals and one was a 60 that I already have a copy of. I should receive them next week and will know for sure.
I have a friend who has a number of Scott tachs, but I would have to ask him if he would sell one. Like me, he likes to hang on to his Scott parts because if you let them go you may not be able to find them if you ever need them later.
I will send you a PM later when I get my manuals and talk to him about a tach. I believe that this forum prefers to keep parts transactions and swapping in the PM system.
This morning I am going to assemble my lower unit. I hace attached a pic of the parts.

Don
 

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latemodel

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Well, I finally finished the lower unit and pump housing Sunday afternoon.

The attached pictures are:

1. The lower unit parts ready to load in the housing.

2. The housing bolted to the assembly fixture with the gears in position.
The assembly fixture makes it a lot easier to assemble the lower unit and check the bearing preload. My fixture is steel, and it can rotate, but a workable one can be made of wood and clamped to a work bench. It can be made so that it can hold the lower unit, and then hold the pump housing for assembling the water pump.

3. The pump housing bolted to the assembly stand.

4. The lower unit and pump housing are bolted together. They will be assembled to the rest of the motor before painting. I polished the prop to add a little eye candy to the picture.

5. I added this pic from a rebuild of a 1960 60 HP lower unit a few years ago. I offered to help a friend by rebuilding his lower unit and pump housing and he brought them to me apart and with a bunch of extra parts he had salvaged from tired motors.
The problem was that I didn?t realize the Scott had changed the shift lever components sometime in the middle of 1960 production. I finally found a 1960 manual and found out that the early shift assembly motors had a small window on the leg just below the power head held on with two screws. It had to be removed and a screw taken out of the shift rod connector in order to remove the lower unit. Later motors had the connector at the split between the lower unit and the pump housing. What it didn?t mention was that the whole assembly used different parts all the way down to the shift pin. I finally figured it out with the parts manuals and rebuilt his using the new style parts he had. The early and late pump housings are different so if you upgrade to the late shift linkage you need to use a late style pump housing. Luckily he had one and I used it to complete the rebuild.
I didn?t upgrade this one even though I had the parts to do it because all of the shift parts were in good shape and this motor will not be run very often. I am saving the late style parts for a motor that will be used more frequently.
Hopefully if someone runs into a shift part question they will find this thread with the info.

Next on the list is to dissemble the rest of the motor and continue to clean and rebuild the various assemblies. With a little luck I might be ready to paint in a couple of weeks.
 

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latemodel

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I pulled the power head without too many challenges and got a chance to look it more closely. First problem was the starter bracket.
Like most 60 HP starter brackets, this one had the lower leg broken off and the PO tried to work around it and ended up stripping the threads in the lower hole. He also must have had problems with one of the top bolts as it was not only stripped, he tried to re-tap it for a 3/8 bolt. It sort of worked, but that one will be Heli-coiled also.
I will use bracket off the 59 power head, it?s good, and will re-weld the broken to use on the 59 if I decide to rebuild it someday.
Also, one of the power head mount bolt holes was stripped. That will require another Heli-coil.
I found the garter spring from the lower crankcase seal lying in the driveshaft cavity. Apparently, the lower cylinder backfired and reversed the seal, pushing the lip facing outside, and the spring came off.
I had an a new crankcase seal and will install that. The original seals do not have part numbers and are an odd size so they are impossible to find. A metric seal will work. Use a 52 X 30 X 8 mm seal. NAK and others make one. It is not as deep as the original, but that just leaves you room to move it in or out to avoid a worn area from the old seal.
I am going to seal up the power head and send it to the media blaster to take the paint off. I usually do that with paint remover to prevent sand or glass beads from getting in, but it?s really tough getting the original baked on paint off.
A friend of mine has been sealing up his power heads and blasting them without any problems. Mine will be blasted with plastic media so if anything ever got in it would not be as serious as sand or glass.
So that brings up the last issue.
I have a Scott service bulletin that has the Dulux paint numbers for all the motors over the years and it states the red paint for the power head was only used on the 1960 60 HP and all 75 HP motors. I have two 59 and one 1958 power head and they are all white so that all ads up
Recently I bought some Scott sales brochures and the 1958 60 HP introductory brochure clearly shows that the power head, at least the back half of it, was red. So what happened? Did some marketing guru decide it was going to be red for the new three cylinder and then get overridden? Did some of the early ones get out red?
It?s kind of like all the politics that went on when the Mercury people tried to convince Carl K. to switch from white to black.
I?ll probably stay with white.
Going to switch over to the boat until the blaster gets the parts done.
I have some pics, but they are posting extremely small. I'll try to get them on a following post.


Don
 

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latemodel

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photo214403.jpg I am going to try and post the pics I added to my previous post, but they were way too small.
 
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