jim j geezer
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- May 16, 2012
- Messages
- 189
Model#: 574.55930
Serial#: 686007101058
Got it for cheap ($0.00). Cleaned & set the points, new plugs and I could get it to start with shots of ether, but it'd die when the ether charge was used up. New fuel lines and sprayed MUCH, MUCH carb cleaner into every port and inlet I could access without having to remove the carb. Set it aside for a week. SUCCESS! The carb cleaner worked its magic. Now it'd start - again with a little coaxing from ether, but it continued to run. Pulled the recoil assy, flywheel and stator plate so I could access the top of the carb. The choke plate was bent up and wasn't effectively ''choking" the carb. <--Did some 'field engineering' to make it work right. Now no ether is required to start it. I just let it run in my test barrel for better'n an hour. It didn't overheat, revved up and idled down nicely, and smoothly shifts gears. But it SPRAYS water like one of those "conserve water" shower heads. Doesn't seem to be much volume. As a comparison, the "Bailamatic" will empty a one gallon of water in less than a minute at medium (shift range) idle.
Should I be concerned, or is that "spray" normal for this outboard?
From left field, but related to the same outboard: The original flimsy plastic hood is, to be succinct: crud.
I can acquire an older and much more durable "Elgin" hood for $10. Anyone know if the Elgin hood will fit and latch properly?
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=7...nw=71&start=0&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:80
Front of engine is identical to my Sears.
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=7...122&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:18,s:0,i:118
The Sears hood has a hinge screwed to the rear of the lower shroud. The Elgin hood lifts all the way off and "grips" the lower shroud at the rear.
Thanks.
Jim J Geezer
Serial#: 686007101058
Got it for cheap ($0.00). Cleaned & set the points, new plugs and I could get it to start with shots of ether, but it'd die when the ether charge was used up. New fuel lines and sprayed MUCH, MUCH carb cleaner into every port and inlet I could access without having to remove the carb. Set it aside for a week. SUCCESS! The carb cleaner worked its magic. Now it'd start - again with a little coaxing from ether, but it continued to run. Pulled the recoil assy, flywheel and stator plate so I could access the top of the carb. The choke plate was bent up and wasn't effectively ''choking" the carb. <--Did some 'field engineering' to make it work right. Now no ether is required to start it. I just let it run in my test barrel for better'n an hour. It didn't overheat, revved up and idled down nicely, and smoothly shifts gears. But it SPRAYS water like one of those "conserve water" shower heads. Doesn't seem to be much volume. As a comparison, the "Bailamatic" will empty a one gallon of water in less than a minute at medium (shift range) idle.
Should I be concerned, or is that "spray" normal for this outboard?
From left field, but related to the same outboard: The original flimsy plastic hood is, to be succinct: crud.
I can acquire an older and much more durable "Elgin" hood for $10. Anyone know if the Elgin hood will fit and latch properly?
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=7...nw=71&start=0&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:80
Front of engine is identical to my Sears.
http://images.google.com/imgres?q=7...122&start=0&ndsp=22&ved=1t:429,r:18,s:0,i:118
The Sears hood has a hinge screwed to the rear of the lower shroud. The Elgin hood lifts all the way off and "grips" the lower shroud at the rear.
Thanks.
Jim J Geezer