Goodyear SeaBee

Thunderhawk

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Hello fellow antique outboarders, just picked up a Seabee mod# 025-3569

ser# 441202. Need some help on a few things to get me started:

Plugs & gap

Fuel mix

Gear case oil

I haven't looked at it much, it appears not to have reverse as it turns 360 deg. Sound right?

I have not paid for this yet, whats a fair price for a non-runner?

Thanks for any help in advance.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

I forgot to ask the year I think 1951-1953 what do ya think? thanks
 

ohm116

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

That is a Gale, house brand of OMC, 5D10 1951-1953, I have the actual Gale Buccaneer version and LandscapeWiz had another branded version of it, see his thread above titled "Saved from the Garbage Man".

It well need a set of new ignition coils, points and condensors, all standard OMC parts that are very readily available still. It well also probably need a new impeller, still available as well.

The plugs are Champion J6C's with a gap of 0.030", the points are set to 0.020" The fuel:eek:il ratio is 24:1 and it uses 90 weight hypoid gear oil.

Price wise, I paid $45, I think Landscapewiz got his for free? You well need to put some money into new parts, so I think depending on overall condition $30 - $60 depending on the condition of the tank and covers and everything. They are great little motors and easy to work on so I think they are great for learning, the only thing hard to find for them is carb parts as they do not share the carb with either a Johnson or Evinrude.
 

steelespike

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Apr 26, 2002
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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

I think the price suggestion is about right.I paid $100 for a 5D11B 55 full shift Gale I felt was very sound and clean under the years of accumulated dirt.(it was)It to has the old style carb.The good thing;this carb is shared with all the 5hp private brands built by Gale with minor differences.Newer models have brass float needles and seats older some sort of base metal with the seat molded into the body.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Here are some pics of the old girl, what do you think?
 

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tmcalavy

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

If it leaks hypoid oil out of the LU (bad seals), use Lubriplate 105 white engine assembly grease instead. That was standard on direct drive outboards made before good seals/seal materials appeared after WWII. Looks like a winner...treat it nice and run it hard.
 

ohm116

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

That one looks nice, much better condition cosmetically then mine, I say get it if you haven't already.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

I think I'll keep this one, thanks for all the input, I'll keep Y'all posted.

tmcalavy, are you saying drain the oil and pump full of white grease?

That sounds like a great idea, I'll keep this in mind. Thanks all later for now.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

One more thing, what kind of compression numbers should I expect. Thanks
 

tmcalavy

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

If it has old/damaged seals in the LU and no replacements are available, put the Lubriplate 105 in the LU instead of marine hypoid oil...drain the old oil first of course. Compression should be 85-90 PSI or higher, any less and it will run but not well and without much power.
 

steelespike

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Apr 26, 2002
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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Not unusual to find 60psi As suggested it will run ok anyway.
Sometimes a DeCarb treatment with Sea Foam will improve compression.
Directions are on the container.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Actually I got over 90 psi in each cyl on the SeaBee Looks like some one already changed the ignition components as everything is spotless under the flywheel and I can see two modern crimped on ring eylets (woohoo).
Good hot spark too. The carb gasket is shot, anyone try and make one yet?
Also any idea how many turns in (or out) should the high speed needle be set initially?

Thanks. Larry:D
 

tmcalavy

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Read the Top Secret file about carb adjustments. Top of this forum.
 

F_R

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Read the Top Secret file about carb adjustments. Top of this forum.

They normally run at about 3/8 turn out from seated. Of course, you turn it to "prime" position to flood it for starting, then turn back to the right just enough to release the primer lever. Then after starting, run at full throttle (in gear, on a boat, in the water) and turn the knob to the right till it starts to falter, then back to the left till it regains power. Then remove the knob and reinstall it pointing straight up. Loosen the primer trip lever and reposition it so it points straight up also.

The idle mixture is a little screw on the side of the carburetor. Adjust that for best slow idle.

That carburetor is so simple that normal people have a tough time understanding it. But once you get the hang of priming it, it will cold-start on one pull.
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Thanks F R for the carb adjusting advice, not there yet but maybe this weekend. I do need help with the carb float though. In another thread you advised ohm116 to use merc # 18-7208 float and to drill out the center bushing, cut the top cone off between the lines. Problem is I went and got what I thought was the same float but it dosen't hava a bushing or a top cone (now what?). Anyway the gal sold me a sierra part so I'm guessing it is the wrong float. What I do have is a hollow plastic puck the same o.d. as the orig. float but it is 1/4 inch taller ( any problem with that?) The center hole I can make the correct size. Any thoughts on my long winded post?

If you need I can post pics this evening. When I pulled the old one out I had thought someone had made it, but with further research I realize it is orig.

Help.........!!!!!
 

Thunderhawk

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Ok I see the picture,the one Ibought is the same shape but it is hollow plastic.I understand i cannot drill or cut this one, can I use is as is being a 1/4 inch to tall? Thanks
 

F_R

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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Ok I see the picture,the one Ibought is the same shape but it is hollow plastic.I understand i cannot drill or cut this one, can I use is as is being a 1/4 inch to tall? Thanks

dunno.
 

Thunderhawk

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May 7, 2007
Messages
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Re: Goodyear SeaBee

Been going thru the SeaBee last week or so everythings looking good; powerhead is clean and in good shape, ignition parts are pretty new, went thru the lower end last night( in good shape with no issues) pretty simple lower end.
The only question on the leg is for the waterpump housing, it dose not appear to have a seal in the upper housing to driveshaft? Still need to clean carb body and reassemble with the gasket I made, and clean fuel tank then reassemble motor. One more question, on the carb body where the reed plates mount to body do I have to seal the threaded holes on the outside?
In many of the pics I have seen of other carbs for this motor you can clearly see a sealer of some type ( also mine was sealed too).Landscaping wiz & Ohm116 you guys still around? Did you guys get them motors runnin'? I would like to hear how you both have done. Thanks to all who have given advice so far.
Talk to ya later. Larry
 
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