Gamefisher 5hp question

440racer

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
35
Newbie hare. My brother gave my a 5hp Gamefisher. I tried to use it this weekend and couldn't keep it running.

I finally guessed that the carb bowl was flooding. If I closed the fuel valve from the tank and tilted the motor and let the fuel drain out I could get it to start then I would open the fuel valve and run the motor close to WOT. Before too long the motor would start to seem to bog down. Then I would close the fuel valve untill it started to run lean and icrease in RPM and then open the fuel valve just a little to let a little fuel into the bowl. After some time I could meter the fuel with the valve at WOT and it would run pretty good but it was very hard to adjust.

All that said does it sound like my float/valve was not working?

Assuming that that was the case, I cleaned the carb, checked the float valve and it looked good so I adjusted the tab on the float to close the valve sooner.

Are there any other things I should adjust, check or test before I try it on the water again?
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

A number of companies built mptors for Sears a model number would help pin down what motor you have. Most likely a Eska built motor.
Your flooding was probably a float problem float should be parallel with the gasket surface with carb inverted.If float is hollow you might shake it to check for gas in it.Change the lower unit lube.
Use outboard gear lube.If it is an Eska it is air cooled with a water cooled exhaust leg.Water should mist out the releif holes on the leg.
 

440racer

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
35
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

A number of companies built mptors for Sears a model number would help pin down what motor you have. Most likely a Eska built motor.
Your flooding was probably a float problem float should be parallel with the gasket surface with carb inverted.If float is hollow you might shake it to check for gas in it.Change the lower unit lube.
Use outboard gear lube.If it is an Eska it is air cooled with a water cooled exhaust leg.Water should mist out the releif holes on the leg.

Thanks for the input, I'll check for the model number.

I've always wondered about how to check the float and the "level to the gasket" helps, it was not level when I opened the bowl, it was hanging at an angle when inverted. The float is a hollow brass doughnut and it didn't have any gas in it fortunately. It must be an Eska because the cylinder has no heat sink fins and thanks for the reminder on the gear lube.
 

440racer

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
35
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

I got the float adjusted and working properly, I believe.

Now I have a new problem. The carb has two ports that meet with the cylinder head, the large one that opens to the reed valve and a smaller one (about 3/16" diam) that meets with a smaller ( about 1/16" diam) hole in the head. Someone had filled the port in the carb with silicone and at least it ran somewhat as mentioned above. I removed the silicone because both ports match and the gasket even had a hole that lined up with the 2 small holes.

All that said, now when I open the valve from the fuel tank (with the float valve working properly I believe) fuel begins to pour out of the carb throat since I removed the silicone.

Does anyone know what this smaller port is for, why someone would have plugged it with silicone, or why the carb is now pouring out fuel?

All input is welcome.
 

CATransplant

Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
6,319
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

That hole is for the fuel pump element, which is not needed for that engine, since it has a built-in fuel tank. If you had the element in place, it would just be blocking the fuel.

Someone replaced the pump element with a plug of silicone. You can do the same, if you want, but be sparing in doing it, or you'll block other stuff. The elements are available, though, either on eBay (search Eska fuel pump) or from www.certifiedpartscorp.com. The element would be the preferred repair, but I know how things are.
 

440racer

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
35
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

That hole is for the fuel pump element, which is not needed for that engine, since it has a built-in fuel tank. If you had the element in place, it would just be blocking the fuel.

Someone replaced the pump element with a plug of silicone. You can do the same, if you want, but be sparing in doing it, or you'll block other stuff. The elements are available, though, either on eBay (search Eska fuel pump) or from www.certifiedpartscorp.com. The element would be the preferred repair, but I know how things are.

You're right. I looked up the part on ebay and the pic looks just like what I removed from the carb. I guess the correct part was in there. It was a little rough on the edges and I thought it was just red silicone, but I did notice it wasn't shaped exactly like the inside of the port. It was tapered like in the picture. I might be able to find it and replace it. If not I'll definitely get another one.

Thanks for the help!
 

holze

Recruit
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

I have a 9.9 Gamefisher which I believe is a 1982 or 1983 according to Discount Marine Parts website (217586251). My problem is almost the same as 440racer's. I took the carb off and totally disassembled/reassembled it. I found the fuel pump element you mentioned in the carb and didnt think anything of it until now. When I try to run the engine I pump the bulb on the external tank fuel line becuase I am using an external tank since this engine doesn't have one mounted to it like a 5hp Gamerfisher does, correct?? With the engine running I can see the fuel in the clear fuel line between the carb and the male (engine) fuel connector disappear and no more gas from the external tank takes its place. Once I pump the bulb in the external tank's fuel line however gas pumps up the line as expected and fills the air space in the fuel line between the carb and male connector. So I guess I'm asking.... Is my problem the fuel pump elemenet? I mean, should it even be in my carb since I do need it to pump fuel into the carb and out of the external tank. Also, the external fuel tank is vented so that isn't issue. Furthermore, the external tank is mounted below the carb, which doesnt allow gravity to "push" fuel down the fuel line as an engine mounted tank would which should have the tank outlet above the carb inlet. Thank you very much and I appreciate all of your knowledgable comments!
 

holze

Recruit
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

So.... The fuel pump element needs to be in place if you're using an external tank on a 1982-83 9.9Hp Gamefisher?? Thanks in advance!
 

holze

Recruit
Joined
May 16, 2008
Messages
4
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

Put the element back in. Without gas runs right out of exhaust near the prop. Going to try and mount the tank above the carb so gravity can do its work. If so, assuming I need a new fuel element becuase it will only run for about 20 seconds then seems to run itself outa gas unless you pump the external fuel line bulb....
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

You need the fuel pump element if running an external tank, it pumps the fuel out of the tank and into the carb.

Be careful with the fuel pump element, I ruined mine by hitting it with carb cleaner and had to get a new one.
 

440racer

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 21, 2008
Messages
35
Re: Gamefisher 5hp question

UPDATE - anyone viewing this topic, be careful about the element.

I'll try to document the steps that lead to me seizing the motor this past weekend.

The fuel pump element didn't make it to me before the weekend so I tried a fix.

I flipped the gasket between the motor abd the carb so the hole for the element was blocked by the gasket.

I was able to get the motor running and took my son out and traveled about a mile and a half down river mostly at w.o.t. and it ran very well.

on the way back I started running it very low throttle (just above stop)

The motor sounded as though I was dragging through the mud then the motor seized with a sound that I knew was bad news. After that the motor would not turn at all. Later after cooling down I could turn the motor. I dumped some 2 stroke oil to coat the cylinder, re-installed the plug that was obviously run lean but no luck. Didn't have a compression tester but I'm pretty sure the rings are shot. I hope that's all. But I guess I'll be looking for rings and maybe a piston. I'm not sure what happened but I'm afraid flipping that gasket allowed air to get in that shouldn't have been and leaned it oout too much.

Any other ideas would be welcome. The motor calls for 50:1 2 stroke but I had mixed a little richer probably about 40:1
 
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