1952 sea king

[Redeyedwiggler]

I haven't been here for some time but I'm looking to open the topic of my sea king again if anyone is willing to give me some advice or information reguarding this antique.
I'm looking for a rebuild kit for the carb, it's a tillotson md54a the model and sereal #'s of the engine are 35gg9017a 452528
It is getting way too much gas and a previous owner had made some mistakes inside the carb, bending the high speed idle and stripping the slot on the top of the jet that fills the bowl.. I'll submit a picture of the damage tomorrow when I take the carb apart for ID.
The oil gas mix is very rich in oil and I was wondering if with newer oils I could reduce the mix? it mixes a pint of oil to a gallon of gas. 30 weight oil.
Needless to say, this thing is a smoker! but I love the engine and would reall like to get the most out of it!

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

Those Tillotson parts are getting hard to find. Try laingsoutboards.com or sea-way.com

The MD carb was used on a whole raft of different makes and models, with modifications to suit the particular need. On your 12hp, the hole through the float valve is huge to get enough gravity gas flow for that big an engine. Others use a relativly small hole to withstand fuel pump pressure. Just be aware to compare the hole.

The Gale service manual says to use 24:1 on all models. I don't say what to use, because if you blow your engine, you will blame me.

BTW, it is a 1953 (35GG--reverse the 35 and you get 53)

 

[LXIX]

Re: 1952 sea king

Also try http://www.mandd.com they are a small engine place with the availability to get some hard to find items.

Brian

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

Thank you guys and I am not about blame.. the motor is a tool and any information you have for me would be appreciated and NEVER held against you.. I am my own and I make my own decisions.
So if you tell me to jump on it, I'm going to ask enough questions about how high and how many times just to make sure I'm getting it right.. and even then I plan on talking to everyone and reading what I can to make sure that things are what they are...and I'm not making mistakes with the information supplied to me.
I believe the oil can be cut back but how much? no idea.. I'll keep asking until general consensus is at a certain level.. then I'll make the move and post back to you.
Calling Liangs tonight! thanks again!

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1952 sea king

Actually, on that little guy, 24:1 is gospel. Really. It has plain bearings, or bushings, and just needs more oil than the later engines with needle bearings or rollers.

There's no point in using less oil, and a lot of danger to the engine. Once the engine is running right and warmed up, you'll be surprised how little smoke there is, especially when you're on the water.

There's nothing to be gained by cutting back on the oil. Nothing at all.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

[Deleted]

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

okay, I've made the mistake of mixing the oil at a pint of oil to a gallon of gas.. so I can cut that in half! wow! <---smokey
I've located the float valve needle and seat.. this was the item with the terrible damage from the previous owner.
I had to heat the bowl body to remove the seat.. very well stuck with years of shellac and whatever else might have kept it in there..( I was told it was a wax ring or something), but it's now out Liangs sent me to the site at sea-way and I called them, they have the needle, seat and high speed idle pin I need for a minimum cost!!
The ring I was told about might have been the nylon seat for the steel needle?
lots of carb cleaner on this and it's a shiny lil devil! (on the inside)

thanks guys I'll keep ya posted on how this turns out!

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

hey guys I've come across with another question...
lower unit grease.. what to use? this is a direct drive, no neutral or reverse lower unit.
I've never changed the oil/grease in a lower unit and I'm sure I can handle it, but I could use some advise.
Should I flush the old oil out of the gears? or just changing and replacing would be sufficient?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

The old outboard grease ina tube is more or less obsolete and impossible to find. Most people use Lubriplate #105 Motor Assembly Grease. Part number 765-2651 at your local NAPA Auto Parts Store.

No need to try to get the old stuff out unless it is full of water. Then it can be cleaned out by removing the cap behind the water pump.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

ok ok.. I took off the pull start assembly to see if I could get a peek at the flywheel and eventually the points and coils... on the top was a simple little plate with three screws.. it's an access panel! so I was able to see that the coils and points appear to be new or in new condition! point surface is shinny and clean.. no pits and absolutely no rust or corrosion to be seen.
Coils are prutex w243/12 and I was trying to do a search so I could order new ones to have on hand but I can't seem to find them.
this motor is incredible clean.. I was amazed once I started to remove the recoil and gas tank! immaculate to say the least! I think I have a keeper!
I was thinking of removing the water jacket covers to search for corrosion or blockages but figured I search opinions here first..
Also should I use a lead additive in this motor?

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1952 sea king

Lead is unecessary in a 2 stroke.I believe the coils are available here for Evinrude Johnson motors.In my old Gale book on all models the Coils are the same through your year old Gale number 580118.The only coil with a different number is the 22de Electric start and I think the only difference is the length of the leads. 18-5181 fits many motor 49 to 90 1.5 to 40 hp.
If it is a fresh water motor leave well enough alone on the jacket covers.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

took the motor to the lake today for a test run with the new needle, seat and high speed needle...
this thing runs awesome!! a twenty four dollar fix with your help and I now have a motor that runs excellent! No smoke at all from this machine and the water from the exhaust is almost crystal clear, where as before the water in the test tank would be all oil and carbon.
Thank you guys again for the help! as soon as my boat project takes shape I'll post a pic of it on the boat and on the lake!! whoot whoot!! look out ducks!

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1952 sea king

When I was a teen ager we had an Elto very similar to your motor but in blue and silver.A little later My Grandfather had a Full gearshift GoodYear In a Gold and dark green.We ran ours on an old 38 Thompson my Grandfater ran his on a 58 LoneStar.These motors were pretty much trouble free as I recall.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

As for those water jacket covers: Hands Off!!!

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

ok ok I hear ya! hands off!
have you guys seen my post on my Durafix project??
This is the boat I plan to run my little motor on!
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=205298

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

the durafix was a bust.. and I've gone to conventional repairs.. but this whole experience has brought me to a new and exciting question!!
I has a small seep of oil from the water pump on the lower unit.. it is the type of water pump the is directly behind the prop.
Someone has used some sort of goo to stop the leak but it's old and warn.. I was wondering how you guys felt about using gluvit to seal the leak.. or would that make it impossible to repair in the future?
Thanks guys..

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

You need to put new seals in it.

I can't imagine anything else sealing it up.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

I'll remove the cover and expose the problem tomorrow..take a look and get back to you.
I wish I had the abilities to machine it but thats a bit more than I'm capable.
Thanks for the quick reply!

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

man.. it's tough dealing with someone else's mistake...
The water flush screw is damaged to a point where I cannot remove it.Any suggestions? The slot in the top is rounded over on the edges and I am worried about heating the lower unit with a torch to loosen it.
Also I'm trying to remove the prop in order to service the water pump and the motor is rotating when I turn the nut counter clock wise while I hold the prop.
The nut will tighten if I turn it clockwise while holding the prop.
help?

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

Give the nut a good soaking with PB Blaster. They liked to sieze/rust on the shaft. Stick a block of wood in to hold the prop. If all else fails, you may have to heat it. The good side of the story is that you discovered it now instead of out on the lake with a busted shear pin.