1952 sea king

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

The shaft rotates inside of the prop when I turn it counter clock wise but the nut tightens when I turn it clock wise.. is that a sign of a sheared pin?
I soaked the nut down with penetrating oil and the nut does spin clock wise but as I spin it counter.. it loosens slightly then the shaft moves inside the prop..
I hope I'm describing this clear enough.
As I loosen it slightly the prop seems to slip a bit more easily.


The water flush screw: can I just replace the grease at the end of the season.. will that remove any water that might be in the lower unit? I assume the water flush is to remove the water in case of freezing.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

I'm a little bit confused on the nut. Yes, if the shaft rotates in the propeller the shear pin is broken. Or the rubber shock hub is shot. But you were running it on a boat with no problem (?) You also seem to indicate that the nut will move back and forth a bit on the shaft? I'm not going to ask if you have all the cotter pin pieces out. If it moves back and forth at all, it shoud come off. Hold the flywheel and turn the prop nut off.

Now, about the water flush plug. It is just that, a way to flush water through the cooling system after running in salt water. If you are in fresh water, forget you ever saw that plug.

There are two other plugs for servicing the gear grease. You should check for water in there now and don't wait till winter. Water is a lousy lube and will wreck the gears and bearings. Back when that motor was made people were accustomed to regreasing as often as every time they used it. Reckon we are spoiled nowadays?

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

Thanks for the reply, I'll have a better understanding of it in the morning and as I get further into it I'll take photos of any parts or situations I get into.
The motor did work fine on the water trial and pushed water extremely well.
Grease oozing from the water pump seal had me thinking that I might need to replace the seal. So in an attempt to remove the prop I've run a muck but, I believe that whats wrong here is that I'm not holding the flywheel while spinning the nut on the end of the prop. Thats the part I guess I didn't understand. As far as lubing the lower end, I drained what was in it out. There was very little lube in there (around two tablespoons) and it was black as black can be.
Lubriplate 105 from Napa is on the shopping list.
Thanks again.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

Ok I have removed the prop and you were correct that the shear pin is toast.
I wrapped a tow strap around the flywheel and around itself to give the leverage I needed to torque the prop nut off.
Worked like a charm!!
Good news..
The water pump rubber is like new and the shock absorber rubber in the prop is in great shape.
There is "no" lube in the rubber water pump.. should there be a non petrol based lube in there? or wax? or anything at all?
Thanks again
Oh yeah.. the shear pin, is that a standard type item or special to the motor?

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: 1952 sea king

Well that's good news. Make sure the wobbler impeller is flexible with no cracks. No lube goes in the water pump. The impeller draws water in and pushes it up the tube to the powerhead as it wobbles eccentrically on the prop shaft...so it has to fit snugly to that shaft in order to wobble and draw/pump water. Make sure the intake and water passages out of the pump are clear. You can order OEM shear pins if you know the size/diameter, but you can also make your own by cutting brass rod from the box stores down to the desired length. Don't use a nail, etc., or anything that can rust in two...has to be a metal that will retain its strength until you hit something hard enough with the prop to shear it in two. Carry an extra or two onboard in your boat kit.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

The drive (shear) pin is part number 551004. It is .206-.211 diameter, 1-3/16" long, and is made of #416 Stainless Steel. The rubber ring is supposed to absorb normal rock crunching, the pin only shears if you really clobber something hard.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

well I have a set of shear pins.. I guessed the size according to what I had from the motor..
I'm not sure if they are the right ones now.. so I'll ask you guys.
these are 1-3/16ths but the diameter is 3/16ths as well.. is that the same thing as what you've described?
These are Brass also softer than the original but I assumed that would be appropriate due to age of the motor and scarcity of the prop, shaft and all lower unit parts.
This has all been a great experience and I appreciate your input!
Thanks.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

3/16" is .187. So, they are a tad smaller in diameter and wrong material. But they will drive the boat. And shear real easy. However, your suggestion about the scarcity makes sense. Go ahead and run them and see if they hold up.

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: 1952 sea king

Brass shear pins are a LOT cheaper than having that prop rehubbed, or paying for a new one. Enjoy your ride, wave at the girls when you pass by.

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

so it has to fit snugly to that shaft in order to wobble and draw/pump water.

Ok how snug does it have to fit? when I move the shaft, it oscillates around. The rubber tab runs up and down nice in the channel, but I got to thinking about your comment of a snug fit.. it's not snug as the shaft rotates inside of the rubber it creates a void on the opposite side of the shaft nub within the rubber.
I hope I'm explaining this clearly because while I'm in there I might as well cover my bases.
Maybe a part # if you guys have it on a compatible model. this one does seem to be fine but I honestly don't know "exactly" what I'm looking for.
The camera I have won't take close ups so I can't take a pic tp help clear it up.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1952 sea king

The impeller (properly called a rotor) is supposed to fit the eccentric with no slop. Looking at the outer circumference of the rotor, it should just touch the inside of the pump housing on one side and there should be a gap on the other side. As the rotor oscillates around, the gap moves from one side to the other. It is that moving gap that displaces water from the intake side to the outlet side. The rubber commonly swells up from grease exposure and reduces the gap and thus the water output. The tab does not do the pumping. It keeps the rotor from spinning, and blocks off the intake from the outlet sides.

New rotors are available from Brian Wilcox at http://www.pfs-ware.com/impellers.htm

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

will do!! thanks for the link!

 

[Redeyedwiggler]

Re: 1952 sea king

Brian is a very good contact and should have a link on the forums permanently!
he has exactly what I need and he hand makes the die for them then makes the part from scratch.
All I need to do is send a few bucks and a tracing of the one I have and he will match it against what he has and send it back out to me! very kewl contact!
Thanks again!