Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Store Links Mobile - Shop Now

Announcement

Collapse

Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone elseís topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when itís posted at the end of someone elseís topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.

Additional forum rules linked below.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum-rules-guidelines-405/
See more
See less

Montgomery Ward Sea King 45GG-9015A - Help me get it running!

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Montgomery Ward Sea King 45GG-9015A - Help me get it running!

    Hello all. A couple of months ago we began cleaning out my grand parents basement. In doing so we found an older Sea King. I tried to get it running but so far no luck. I put fresh gas and new plugs but still nothing. Upon getting the top of it opened I figured out my issue. The coil pack..things...are shot. They crumbled to pieces before I even touched them. I have got them pulled out now but need to know where to get new and, the spark plug wire that goes with them. At least on these original ones, the wire seemed to have fed into the bottom of the coil and was a permanent sort of fixture. Any help on this? Attached are some pictures for reference as to what I am talking about.






  • #2
    Would this be what I need?

    http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=822620791

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes, those are the right coils. You might as well do the points and condensers while you're in there- OMC part # 172522. The plug wires will pull out of the original coils. The old ones had a pin that went into the wires, the new style have a screw that goes into the wire. Cut off 1/4" or so to get a good clean connection.

      Comment


      • #4
        Your motor is a 1954, manufactured by Gale Products; a division of OMC....The Johnson and Evinrude guys. You can tell that it is a 1954 by looking at the model number.....the first two digits (45) are the year in reverse. Clever; eh?

        Your motor is a Gale Mod 5S10.....and you can get a manual for it here:

        https://richardlpaquette.ca/GaleProd...viceManual.pdf

        In addition to replacing the ignition....count on opening up the carburetor for a good cleaning and by all means check the lower unit oil before you run it.

        Fuel mix should be 16:1 initially using the TC-W3 outboard type oil.

        Seakaye


        Comment


        • #5
          May I suggest you use this one instead of the Sierra? I just like CDI parts better. http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=135404332

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SeaKaye12 View Post
            Your motor is a 1954, manufactured by Gale Products; a division of OMC....The Johnson and Evinrude guys. You can tell that it is a 1954 by looking at the model number.....the first two digits (45) are the year in reverse. Clever; eh?

            Your motor is a Gale Mod 5S10.....and you can get a manual for it here:

            https://richardlpaquette.ca/GaleProd...viceManual.pdf

            In addition to replacing the ignition....count on opening up the carburetor for a good cleaning and by all means check the lower unit oil before you run it.

            Fuel mix should be 16:1 initially using the TC-W3 outboard type oil.

            Seakaye


            Originally posted by RCO View Post
            Yes, those are the right coils. You might as well do the points and condensers while you're in there- OMC part # 172522. The plug wires will pull out of the original coils. The old ones had a pin that went into the wires, the new style have a screw that goes into the wire. Cut off 1/4" or so to get a good clean connection.
            Originally posted by F_R View Post
            May I suggest you use this one instead of the Sierra? I just like CDI parts better. http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...****=135404332
            Thanks everyone for the great information! I think I will pick up the coils you recommended instead. So what you are saying is that I just take off a bit of the pre-existing spark plug wire cover and screw that into the new coil, right?

            As for the oil change, what oil would I want to use for this?

            Lastly, it looks like for parts and shipping I am looking at a little over $60 for this fix, is that worth it? Honestly I think I will be selling the motor after I get it fixed as I already have a 7HP motor on my boat and don't have too much of a use for this one (unless it runs better than my current!) Looking around in Craigslist it looks like people sell various motors from this age and older, not running, for over $150 or more. Beginning to wonder what this little beauty might fetch if it's running tip top!

            Comment


            • #7
              Last one I sold went for $75. That was with new coils and water pump impeller. If you don't plan to use it, sell it for $30 and let the next guy fix it.

              I disagree on one point. That motor is a Gale model 5D10 (not 5S10). It has a neutral clutch and the lower unit takes regular 80-90 weight Outboard Gear Oil.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have one. They run like a top. It`s the motor I take along when testing one I`m not sure will make it back.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'd replace the spark plug wires and boots. The old ones are probably cracked and likely to arc through.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    SHE RUNS! I replaced the electrical as mentioned, new gas and cleaned the carb out twice.

                    My only issue now is that it is running really rich. Does anyone know the proper adjustment for these? I see there is a screw that I can turn that is labeled Rich one way and Lean the other. Lean being closed of course. I have that screw almost completely shut, all the way to lean.

                    At this point I can run at start, a hair below that and up to full throttle. If I go too much further below the start point, it will choke and die. Also, the entire time it's running it's smoking quite a bit, a bluish white smoke, not dark.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Sign up today
                      The big knob on the front is the high speed adjustment. It will probably run best somewhere around 3/8 turn open. Nevertheless, simply turn it to the right till it starts to falter (at full throttle), then back to the left till it regains power.

                      That other screw you are talking about is the idle mixture adjustment. It works in a very unconventional manner---by holding the throttle valve open a bit. Screwing it in holds it open more, screwing it out allows it to close more. In any case, it is only effective a slow throttle settings, when it is holding it open. So adjust it at idle speed and don't mess with it in an attempt to adjust the high speed

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X