1953 Scott Atwater Gold Pennant 7.5

Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
Hello,
Just picked up a Scott Atwater boat motor at a garage sale. Model 3335-4062. The pistons are seized up and a found what looks to be a butterfly or possibly a moth gestating in the carb.
I'm pretty sure I can get it cleaned out and functional as it doesn't appear to be corroded beyond repair.
I have a line on an impeller from FlyingScott but I'm lacking part numbers for most of the other seals. I've checked around most of the day and haven't found much in the way of info.
I need a seal number for the prop shaft, head gasket and a carb build kit as well as any other seals required for a rebuild. The lower unit was packed in what looks like grease/oil/water and sand. Its not corroded but definitely needs cleaned.
I just recently rebuilt a 54 Evinrude 7.5 Fleetwin with a lot of help from this site and I kind of enjoyed bringing it back to life. Thank you all for the assist.
I want to get a list of parts together but will hold off purchasing until I get the seized head issue out of the way.
I picked it up for 40 bucks. No tank. Is there a special tank connector or are they kind of generic. The Fleetwin uses a pressurized tank and fortunately I was able to get the connector O'rings replaced and functional.
If all goes well I'd like to get it repainted too. This is a good hobby.
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
7,985
That is a one year motor, If it was me i would find a running one and use the one you have for parts. They use a scott connector for the fuel and have fuel pumps. even though it is a 1 year motor for scott it was made a couple more years as a Firestone. The Aomci will be your friend here as will www.laingsoutboards.com. Fixing one of those isn't like an omc or Mercury.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
Apart from the rusted pistons it looks to be in decent shape. I'll start looking for Firestone parts in a similar model year..
Appreciate the reply.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
Thanks for the encouragement. I pulled the head last night. There was a thin coat of rust in places but it actually didn't look too bad. I poured some transmission fluid into the cylinders. To let it soak. The rods and connecting pins are solid. I think if I can get it unseized and cleaned up I should have a good motor. The spark plug wires were loosely connected at the coils (wrapped around the coil pins) which leas me to believe why this motor was thrown out.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
my plan is to ill a 5 gallon bucket with distilled water and washing soda and use electrolysis to clean the cylinder head. I would like to remove the coil plate but I don't see how it is connected. Is it pressed on?
 

brim_buster

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 9, 2013
Messages
1,203
my plan is to ill a 5 gallon bucket with distilled water and washing soda and use electrolysis to clean the cylinder head. I would like to remove the coil plate but I don't see how it is connected. Is it pressed on?
If I remember correctly the 4 bolts that hold the coils in place need to be removed. Another thing I did was replaced the coil windings with some new evinrude ones I had.I looked at the manual I have and those were the only bolts I remember unless the plate bolts were under the coils.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
Electrolytic dip tank worked well. Removed all the varnish and separated the scale from the cylinder walls. I still had to pull the 6 main bolts from the block, knock out the pins on the crankshaft housing and separate the housing to remove the pistons. all the needle bearings look great. Unfortunatley I snapped one of the piston rings while removing to clean it up. The cylinder walls, piston heads look good. There was a alot of carbon buildup. It looks as though the fingers on the inlet are in bad shape which probabley led to all these issues. The lower unit is a grease type and looks great also.
So far the only real problems I see are the impeller fingers are broken (Found a replacement) and my piston ring. Anyone know where i can get a piston ring sized for a 2.0" bore with a thickness of .1"? my google is failing me. But it has to be a common size. The problem I have is that most companies go by part number and I need size info.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Could that ring thickness be 3/32" (0.0937)? I don't have a list of them, so can't be much help there. Hastings has a website and I understand they can supply rings by size.

Seals are available by size (measure them) from bearing & seal houses, if you have a local one. Also try NAPA

For test purposes, just shove the bare gas hose onto the fuel connector.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2013
Messages
7
Could that ring thickness be 3/32" (0.0937)? I don't have a list of them, so can't be much help there. Hastings has a website and I understand they can supply rings by size.

Seals are available by size (measure them) from bearing & seal houses, if you have a local one. Also try NAPA

For test purposes, just shove the bare gas hose onto the fuel connector.

My Calipers measured it at .1 Unfortunately they're also digital and the battery is dead. I'll try hastings. 2" rings shouldn't be too hard to find. I wish sites would do better listing size options on part instead of part numbers. Part numbers can expire or be phased out but 2" will always be 2".
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Have you tried laings yet? He doesn't list the 7.5hp rings, but that doesn't mean he doesn't have any. Give him a call
 
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