Eska (Ted Williams /Sears) 7hp air cooled outboard: Expert opinions' requested

[JerBear]

Hi guys, I bought the subject outboard over the weekend, along with a 12' VALCO fishing boat, off an "old timer" for $200.00 (just the motor). Model # 217-59440, Serial # 163913 = 1967/68 vintage. We cranked it up after we returned home and it has good compression and spark but didn't run (thankfully; we found out lower unit needs to be immersed). My son checked various sources in Spokane, WA area and was advised to dump the motor ASAP due to non-availability of parts and low market value if motor quits in the near term. I do have the option to return within 7 days and am leaning that way after son's report but the motor is very clean, unique, "guaranteed to have run" within the last 30 days, and is a classic (self-contained gas tank above the motor plus remote hookup for external tank). I really don't need an albatross though; what do you guys think? Am I being foolish, should I return it while I can and look for a Johnson or Evinrude of similar vintage that'll run forever and always be supportable or stick wit this classic? Looking for your experience and input...I'm listening......Thanks

 

[brim_buster]

You wont be disappointed. Great little motors and you can still get parts from various sources. Sometimes a 50 dollar motor can be worth 200 if it last and you dont have to dump a bunch of money in it. 1971 twist grip. I have a copy of the manual in pdf format if you would like a copy. Private message me your email and I will send it to you. Ive owned quite a few different ones and I love them. Air cooled power head but water cooled leg. It should spray water out the exhaust holes if working properly. The power head is just like a lawn mower. 32:1 fuel ratio and J13Y champion plug.

 

[gm280]

Well :welcome: aboard JerBaer. Nice to have you as a new iboater...

I use to own one of those older Sears, Ted Williams engines. Mine wasn't running and I had to buy a new spark module. But after that it ran pretty nicely. It isn't in the class with Mercury or Johnson, but it will get you around pretty well. If you have good compression, and spark as you state, then the only thing to address is the fuel. If you like the engine, there are always parts somewhere for them. If not new, possible used. Check EBay for such parts if you need them. JMHO

 

[guy48065]

Good luck finding ignition parts. I have 2 of them--one is an actual Eska with pristine cover & twist grip that looks like it's never been used, the other is a nasty corroded Wards that looks like hell but runs like a raped ape. WAY faster than my 5HP Mariner and nearly half the weight.

The weight is what I like about them. 20-25 pounds with no fuel tank to carry down to the dock. Perfect weekend fishing motor.

BUT...the achilles heel of these motors is the ignition system. The ignition plate & module are long out of production and out of stock. Coils crack and quit. Nobody makes replacement parts so the only option left is to cannibalize one to get another running. I watched ebay for about a year before someone put up a working ignition plate. I snapped it up for my pristine Eska that I bought at a yard sale after the seller started it up for me. It quit 15 minutes after I got it home. :mad-new:

If you like to tinker they can be a good engine to have. Don't forget your oars!

 

[gm280]

Good luck finding ignition parts. I have 2 of them--one is an actual Eska with pristine cover & twist grip that looks like it's never been used, the other is a nasty corroded Wards that looks like hell but runs like a raped ape. WAY faster than my 5HP Mariner and nearly half the weight.

The weight is what I like about them. 20-25 pounds with no fuel tank to carry down to the dock. Perfect weekend fishing motor.

BUT...the achilles heel of these motors is the ignition system. The ignition plate & module are long out of production and out of stock. Coils crack and quit. Nobody makes replacement parts so the only option left is to cannibalize one to get another running. I watched ebay for about a year before someone put up a working ignition plate. I snapped it up for my pristine Eska that I bought at a yard sale after the seller started it up for me. It quit 15 minutes after I got it home. :mad-new:

If you like to tinker they can be a good engine to have. Don't forget your oars!

I honestly know exactly what you are talking about. But then knowing electronics, I could probably make an ignition system for them to run and even search for a suitable coil from some other engine or rewind the original. There are always ways to get things running again. Just how much are you willing to do to make one run? JMHO

 

[brim_buster]

some have solid state ignition but most have points. Yours should have points. I think the SSI came later in the 70s. One of mine was a 77 and it had SSI but the module worked great. I got lucky....lol

 

[JerBear]

Thanks for the PDF, it came through perfect! Answers a lot of questions and will sure make my life a little easier!

 

[rwernst]

Hi guys, I bought the subject outboard over the weekend, along with a 12' VALCO fishing boat, off an "old timer" for $200.00 (just the motor). Model # 217-59440, Serial # 163913 = 1967/68 vintage. We cranked it up after we returned home and it has good compression and spark but didn't run (thankfully; we found out lower unit needs to be immersed). My son checked various sources in Spokane, WA area and was advised to dump the motor ASAP due to non-availability of parts and low market value if motor quits in the near term. I do have the option to return within 7 days and am leaning that way after son's report but the motor is very clean, unique, "guaranteed to have run" within the last 30 days, and is a classic (self-contained gas tank above the motor plus remote hookup for external tank). I really don't need an albatross though; what do you guys think? Am I being foolish, should I return it while I can and look for a Johnson or Evinrude of similar vintage that'll run forever and always be supportable or stick wit this classic? Looking for your experience and input...I'm listening......Thanks

Hi,

I've got one of these and was working on it and removed the 3 fuel lines and don't know which goes to which on the carb. There's a built in tank with line coming from it to a fuel valve you can open or close. Then a line from there to carb. There's ALSO a line from the carb to the external tank connector. If you close the built in tank/valve, the external tank works great.

However, I can NOT remember which carb fuel connection goes to the external connector and which goes to the valve.

If someone can tell me, or better yet, send/include a pic, that would be FANTASTIC!

Thanks in advance,

Rich

 

[jbcurt00]

Rich, start a topic about your motor and ask questions about it, there

Closed