1977 5hp Eska

escapade

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
205
I have been doing a lot of research on the 5hp Eska I got my hands on, figured out it was from 1977 what type of Tecumseh engine is on it (643-25) amongst other helpful things and even got the repair manual from a member here. Currently trying to get the motor to run I do have compression and I had spark

However this is where my problem lies.. When I was first cranking it over I did have spark, however now I no longer have spark, I don't know if it was something I did or not because while I was working on it the twist throttle jumped teeth and was all kinds of screwy, I did manage though to get it meshed properly but like I mentioned now I don't have spark.

So now for my question when setting the gap for the points it calls for .020 inch. Now is this supposed to be done at the highest point of the lobe that would be max separation of the points? (from the manual "before attempting to set ignition timing, make certain that breaker points are in good {or new} condition and gap at maximum opening is correct) when the refer to maximum opening they mean max opening of the points not the throttle??

it would appear that someone has played with this motor before has the stop screw (screw that grounds out the ignition shutting the engine) was screwed in way to much and the stop bracket (to limit max throttle) was way out of adjustment as well.


Maybe I am just misreading something and not quite understanding what they are asking me to do.
 

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brim_buster

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 9, 2013
Messages
1,203
that is correct. The lobe has a high spot on it and you want to set the points there.
 

georgiastriper

Recruit
Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2
I had a spark issue on my Ted Williams 5.5 hp (Eska). It turned out to be an invisible layer of oxidation between the points and the mounting surface. After wasting money on a coil, I traced that issue down with an ohm meter. I recommend removing the points and cleaning the mating surfaces with a scotch bright pad or very fine sand paper. Don't use anything that will leave the surfaces scratched or they will oxidize again more rapidly. Follow up with compressed air and wipe your surfaces with a cleaning solvent. Clean your points with a points file while they're out. Be sure that the outer part of the spark plug touches the block when you are doing a visual spark inspection. I made that mistake and thought the plug was bad. Also, confirm that the plug wire hasn't pulled loose inside the boot. To test the coil, you should measure roughly 6k ohms from the spark plug wire to either one of the smaller wires. Be sure the coil is completely disconnected and check each small wire to the spark plug wire individually. Be sure to watch the video link below. He gives complete detail on removing the coil if necessary. You do not need to remove the assembly as seen in the video from the engine to get the coil off. Be careful not to loose the retainer clip. Amazon is the cheapest source for the coil that I could find. You can also check eBay. There is an Eska seller. Verify that the part numbers are correct for your motor. I used part number 30560A which crosses to 7-01612. Look up your motor model on Sears website to confirm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6bQrNr4lv0
 
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F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
How did you adjust the Maximum advance screw? Not saying you got it wrong, just wondering.
 
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