Have read your guy's posts over the past years and just decided to join the forum due to needing some help .
To make a long story short , I bought a 74 Century Ski Fury 16 ft with a 340 Chrysler . Found that the engine has an internal crack ( pressure checked manifolds , etc , did all checks needed, tore engine completely down ) ... no visible outer cracks ( water was getting into the oil BIG TIME ). Engine is clockwise rotation ( opposite of a standard automobile ) . Came with a ( close to )$800 Mallory Marine HEI ignition system and an aftermarket shifter that offsets the cost of the boat ( cheap ) . Where I live , I have not been able to find any marine Chrysler 318/340/360's for anywhere near reasonable prices ( 1500 or less for a shortblock ) , so found a low mile 1974 360 out of a Dodge Coronet for cheap with a trans and edelbrock carb ( sold the trans and carb ) .
Yes I know that the rotation of a Chrysler automobile is opposite that of the engine I have , but have all of the tools/time needed to convert the engine to the needed rotation. All I need to know is basically am I right or wrong on in what is 100% needed , and if there is anything missing or you might add to my list of steps of changing rotation. Swap out HEI ignition system from 340 to 360 ,starter , swap cams , swap out timing chain/gears , swap out oil pans ( marine one is larger and has studs that mount to the velvet drive ) , Freeze plugs --> Brass , marine gasket set ( full ) , possibly swap out oil pump due to the deeper pan ) , water pump .
Here's where things get a bit hazy and I really need help... some of you have said to turn the pistons around due to a 1/16th offset in the wrist pin , others have said leave it .
Other area I really need help in , due to the change of rotation , I know the engine has knurls on the end of the crank , You guys are the authority in boating ... some people say to polish the knurls off and go with a neoprene seal , others say to go with a quick sleeve or something , while others say to get the knurls filled and re-machined the correct way and to use a rope seal... what's the best route ? I understand the reasoning behind the knurls is to wick the oil away from the rope seal and back into the oil pan , reversing the rotation pushes it against the seal .
To make a long story short , I bought a 74 Century Ski Fury 16 ft with a 340 Chrysler . Found that the engine has an internal crack ( pressure checked manifolds , etc , did all checks needed, tore engine completely down ) ... no visible outer cracks ( water was getting into the oil BIG TIME ). Engine is clockwise rotation ( opposite of a standard automobile ) . Came with a ( close to )$800 Mallory Marine HEI ignition system and an aftermarket shifter that offsets the cost of the boat ( cheap ) . Where I live , I have not been able to find any marine Chrysler 318/340/360's for anywhere near reasonable prices ( 1500 or less for a shortblock ) , so found a low mile 1974 360 out of a Dodge Coronet for cheap with a trans and edelbrock carb ( sold the trans and carb ) .
Yes I know that the rotation of a Chrysler automobile is opposite that of the engine I have , but have all of the tools/time needed to convert the engine to the needed rotation. All I need to know is basically am I right or wrong on in what is 100% needed , and if there is anything missing or you might add to my list of steps of changing rotation. Swap out HEI ignition system from 340 to 360 ,starter , swap cams , swap out timing chain/gears , swap out oil pans ( marine one is larger and has studs that mount to the velvet drive ) , Freeze plugs --> Brass , marine gasket set ( full ) , possibly swap out oil pump due to the deeper pan ) , water pump .
Here's where things get a bit hazy and I really need help... some of you have said to turn the pistons around due to a 1/16th offset in the wrist pin , others have said leave it .
Other area I really need help in , due to the change of rotation , I know the engine has knurls on the end of the crank , You guys are the authority in boating ... some people say to polish the knurls off and go with a neoprene seal , others say to go with a quick sleeve or something , while others say to get the knurls filled and re-machined the correct way and to use a rope seal... what's the best route ? I understand the reasoning behind the knurls is to wick the oil away from the rope seal and back into the oil pan , reversing the rotation pushes it against the seal .
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