WOT bog and hard to keep running, possible distributor conversion

[73L48]

Hi all, I have a 2.3 OMC in an 87 Sea Ray Seville. The boat hadn't been running for a coupl years. I unplugged the ESA switches rebuilt the carb and it ran fantastic.

Took it out for a full throttle run and it ran great for about 20 sec and then it wanted to die. I had to feather the throttle - like pumping the throttle to keep giving gas to the carb - it reacted like it was starved. I got it back to th dock, adjusted th idle mixture screws to about 1.75 - 2 turns out and took it back out.

It died pretty quick at a lower rpm and didn't want to run at idle. I rowed it in and it started and ran pretty good next day in th driveway.

I'm going to rebuild the fuel pump this weekend, but any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

There is fresh gas, new points gapped to .018, plugs were changed, new coil...just frustrated I wanna be on the water, ha

I'm considering a distributor conversion to an electronic insert under the cap - it's a Mallory. Has anyone done this with good results? And are there any other considerations if I go that route? I think Ive read that some conversions may not be compatible with the ESA switches

Thanks!!

 

[HT32BSX115]

Howdy, Welcome aboard!


Your problem sounds a lot like fuel starvation.

Either plugged carb filter, stuck float, clogged filter, Anti-siphon check valve, fuel tank pickup screen, tank vent.

If the tank vent is clogged, it would run ok until sufficient vacuum was produced in the tank to stop the flow of fuel. You can quickly check by removing the fuel fill cap right when the engine dies (listen for a "sucking" sound)


Regards,


Rick

 

[bruceb58]

Adjusting the idle mixtures screws does nothing for anything other than at idle.

You should set the points with a dwell meter. Did you set the timing after putting in the points?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Also check the coil.
It can mimic the fuel starvation the others mentioned.
If the coils so hot you can't keep your fingers on it?? Then it's bad.
Check for water in the fuel.

 

[73L48]

Thanks for the replies I appreciate them. The fuel filters, both at the carb and the external one, are new. In fact when I rebuilt the carb, I found the hard cone filter to be installed backwards, with the closed side meeting the incoming fuel.

I have not given any consideration to fuel tank and vent. I did take note that there is no o-ring or gasket on the fuel cap, I'll chase the vent. I have a garden tractor that has a plastic tank. I tightened the cap one day such that it stalled out. When I lifted the seat I saw that the tank was imploding, I never tightened it but finger tight after that.

The coil is new, but I'll check it's heat after it get warmed up. I have not used a dwell meter, nor have I checked the timing, or verified the gap.

While I know performance will suffer, these items being slightly off should not cause the engine to need the throttle pumped to barely keep it running, and finally refuse to run at idle, only to start again cold the next day.

I'll verify the coil heat and tank issues in the next day or so, thank you again for the suggestions I appreciate it

 

[Bondo]

these items being slightly off should not cause the engine to need the throttle pumped to barely keep it running, and finally refuse to run at idle,

Ayuh,...... Welcome Aboard,..... That sentence says it's runnin' outa Gas,....

Hook up a remote tank of fresh clean gas to the fuel pump, by-passin' the boat's tank., 'n system,....

Fix this issue, Before ya consider changin' the ignition,....
Otherwise yer settin' yerself up to be chasin' yer tail in circles to figure out what's wrong,....

 

[bruceb58]

It does sound like fuel but your method of changing your points means you aren't done with it yet.

 

[73L48]

Thanks again for the replies. I have not received the fuel pump rebuild kit yet, so I think I'll test the pump as is, assess it performance, rebuild it, and check it again - both before and after with a fresh remote tank. Haven't had a chance to go thru the tank vent system, but there also on the agenda.

I asked the ignition question only to see if there are any suggestions, or potential pitfalls to be aware of. I'm not looking to switch and swap as a remedy for my current symptoms. I'm seeking longer term reliability, but I agree that if I do too many adjustments/fixes/change of variables, I'll likely not learn the cause or solve it.

Thanks again for the suggestions, I'm hoping to get to it in the next couple days I can get to it and report back

 

[73L48]

Well ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit for the fuel pump p/n in my service manual and it came in. I disconnected the fuel line to the carb, put a clear hose on it and ran it to an extra gas can i had, and cranked the engine. It seemed to pump consistent and steady amounts of fuel. I took the pump off and started to disassemble only to find that the parts inside the pump were not the replacement parts in the kit.

It turns out that I have a 60565 Carter fuel pump, not the one called for in the manual - I don't have the manual or that p/n at my finger tips right now. Could it be that the carter is a replacement and not correct, possibly not able to keep up with fuel demand/delivery? I honestly don't think it would be the case, but I know there's many who are more knowledgeable than me.

Thanks again