What model of OMC Outdrive do I have?

TDiniz

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I managed to get the new seal in, however I have no reverse now, if I reverse the wiring, I have no forwards. What did we do wrong?

EDIT: So we are getting the 12 volts from each prong in the correct directions, so we're just going to hook up a switch that reverses the wires, but I need to know which way the prop spins in forward while standing behind the boat watching it spin.
 
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southkogs

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Clockwise.

Are you sure the drive isn't shorting out in the shift coils?
 

southkogs

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What you want to do is test continuity from the shift wires that go down into the drive. HERE is one of my learning experiences a few years ago with some good advice from the gurus.
 

TDiniz

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OK, so I was wrong, reversing the wires did not engage reverse, in fact we tried to give reverse 12 volts off the battery and didn't even hear the click by putting our ear on the drive.

We have 12 volts on each wire going into the drive and 2 amps. Where do we go from here? Is my magnet bad?

EDIT: Since checking the magnet requires removal of the lower unit, how do exactly do you fill a Stringer with oil? I was told the air has to be removed while filling, but I don't know how to do this. What oil can I put in it?
 
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southkogs

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If you're not getting voltage to the reverse shift wire, is the switch in your remote working properly?

You should be able to check continuity with the drive on. However, to answer your question about oil ... you'll want a PUMP and TYPE C lube for your lower unit. Fill port is on the bottom of the lower gear case on the port side of the drive. Vent screw is on the upper portion of the lower unit on that same port side. Drain the drive, and then connect the pump to the lower fill port and pump it full.
 

TDiniz

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I am getting 12 votes to the reverse and forward shift wires, and 2 amps. Should I pull the lower gear case off? Is there a gasket there that will not be reusable or something, or can I put it back together with just new oil when we've got it figured out?

Also what did the shop do to fix yours?
 
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southkogs

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Shop didn't do anything to fix mine ... My lowers have always been good. The one shop that I did try wound up cutting my shift wires ... have no idea why that happened. My uppers have been my problem over the years. When they cut the wires, I wound up finding an entire drive because I needed the upper unit anyway. And that's been my MO with bad gear boxes (I've had two uppers go bad), I buy a used one that's been pressure tested.

You can take the drive off and separate the units with no trouble. You won't even have to drain your gear lube. However, once you go into the lower unit gear box, you have to deal with those gears, shims and seals pretty specifically and the entire case has to seal back up water tight.

You're getting forward but not getting reverse. You've got good power to the forward shift wire (12v), and good power to the reverse shift wire (12v) from the helm / remote. Do you know for sure that you have Type C lube in the lower unit?
 

Redrig

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You can test the magnet without pulling anything off , it sounds like it toast if it is not engaging with 12 volts but you can do another test to confirm it .

set your voltometer to OHMs and check the resitstance of the shift magnet . It should be between 4.5 and 6.5 ohms IIRC .

also when you are doing these tests , be sure that you never engage forward and reverse at the same time .
 

TDiniz

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Should be Type C in the lower unit, it probably hasn't been changed in almost 10 years though.
 
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TDiniz

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It won't let me edit my last post. I just got back from going over it again, we checked resistance and got 6.5 ohms on forward and 6.2 ohms on reverse. Then we pulled the oil level plug on the lower unit, it made a squirt sound and then shot out the blackest oil I have ever seen. Going to replace the fluid on Saturday.

I want to replace the fluid in my tilt gear as it is making a lot of noise, do I use a pump for that too?
 

Scott Danforth

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your only allowed to edit the post for the first 60 minutes.

I just put the container nozzle in the fill and squeezed teh bottle for the tilt and filling the gear case for years before spending the $5 on a pump.
 

TDiniz

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Finally tried it out again, this time it didn't sink, but it would not idle, when you accelerate and return to idle the linkage doesn't bring it back all the way, and it dies while idling in gear. We also struck the prop on the concrete :(. And finally, we could only get the water impeller to shoot up water while in gear, is this normal? We never fixed reverse if you have any ideas from my last update. Thank you so much for all the help so far, I would've given up if it wasn't for your help.

EDIT: When on a plane the boat would roll rather than turn when I cranked the wheel, is this normal? Never even been on a boat before this.
 
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southkogs

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Are your upper drive shaft splines stripped? That might account for all of the symptoms.

Does the boat roll only, or turn and roll? Some hulls will roll considerably when you're in a turn ... the Stringers were able to turn VERY tight, so at speed if you really lay it hard over it may roll quite a bit.
 

southkogs

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No. down with the impeller ... the shaft that runs through the impeller is prone to wear out. Ball gears are actually pretty robust if you're careful to run the leg full down.
 

TDiniz

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So I found an exploded view and a couple pictures of it apart, but what all must be removed to work on the impeller? We're going to take apart the lower unit and do the impeller at the same time. While it's apart, anything else we should do? Oh my upper gear case doesn't have a dipstick for checking the level, only a screw, and we've been using a ziptie to check for water, how will I know how much oil to put back in?
 
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TDiniz

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Thank you. As for a prop, how many teeth are on the shaft for it? I see they sell them here but only for the Sea Drive and Cobra.
 

Scott Danforth

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Not sure on you older unit, however my 84 400 shared props with the V4 jonnyrudes
 
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