What model of OMC Outdrive do I have?

TDiniz

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I recently purchased this boat a 1973 Duo, with a 1968 OMC 2.5L engine, with receipts for the rebuilt engine, but I have no idea what model my outdrive is. Here are some pictures of it:


HrjLON3.jpg

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TDiniz

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What do I need to know about it to make it last? Everyone told me they are troublesome, but I'd like to keep it. Where would I go about finding parts for it when I need them? I can only find parts for Stringer 400 and 800?
 
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southkogs

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Let's do it this way: a warning and advice ...

The Warning: The OMC Stringer isn't a bad drive ... the have some quirks and some perks. Well cared for, there's no reason that they can't run for quite a while. I actually do pretty well with mine, and I like the drive. HOWEVER ... they are old, obsolete, scoffed at by many marine techs and some parts are hard to find. If the boat itself is in good shape, and you wanna' resurrect the drive, keep the afore mentioned in mind. If the boat is in rough shape, and you have a "ridden hard and put up wet" electric shift Stringer ... you may want to consider moving on to a different boat. It will likely be more expensive than you think to put on the water.

The Advice: you can find many parts HERE. There's also a bunch of information NW Redneck provided (see link in my sig). You'll need to find your engine ID to identify what you have for sure. There should be a tag on the engine somewhere with a number on it. The number on mine is JUFM10S, and yours should be a similar type of number. My tag is located on one of the engine mounts on the drivers side of the engine toward the rear.

Have you had it running at all?
 

southkogs

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You'll also want a manual ... probably best to get a shop manual ... they have 'em HERE.
 

TDiniz

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Your parts link went to Evinrude's site, is that correct? This is my first boat, and I have had it running, it will be ready for the water when the carbs are rebuilt as far as we know. It really vibrates when we engage the prop at any trim level other than the bottom.
 

southkogs

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Correct on the parts link.

That's not your trim ... that's just your tilt. The Stringer tilts at the pivot points on the stern drive. It trims (if you have trim) at the front of the engine block. Only run your drive full down. The vibration you're feeling is the ball gears working each other over at the meeting point of the drive and the intermediate housing. In theory you can can idle with the drive tilted up ... and in shallows you may have to do that from time-to-time ... but the racket the drive makes really creeps me out, so I avoid it if at all possible.
 

TDiniz

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OK, I was able to navigate that site after figuring out it's called a Stern drive. What are some things I should know to make this thing last as long as possible? My dad is a farm equipment mechanic, so he knows his way around this stuff. Also do you have a guide to bleeding my steering? There's a screw on the wheel but there's also a warning to not touch it unless you are trained to fix it.
 

southkogs

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From the pictures, your steering is the same through hull push/pull arm that I have. You don't bleed that system, it's most likely rack and pinion and then cable. If your steering is stiff, we need to determine if it's the swivel of the drive, the rack and pinion or the cable. I would first disconnect the arm from the drive and see if the drive swivels easily ... if not, grease the swivel bearing (points on the front of the lower unit behind the red plastic cap).

If the drive swings freely, then time to check the rack and cable - sometimes those are all one unit, and you have to replace all of it.

One of the best things you can do for yourself is order a shop manual. There's a link in my signature to some good information, but you'll want a manual.
 

TDiniz

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Alright, so I'm getting ready to order the shop manual, however, there are about 20 Stringer models for the 120 HP in 1968. Evinrude's site had a CU-16 and a CUE-16, I assume the CUE-16 is the electric shift. Is there a model number on the outdrive somewhere?
 

southkogs

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All the Stringers in '68 were electric shift. Somewhere on the engine (mines on the starboard side rear motor mount) there should be a tag that has one of those two numbers on it. Won't really be stamped into the drive anywhere. Are you certain the manuals aren't the same for those two models? The differences are pretty minimal ... usually.
 

TDiniz

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Thanks for all the help, I'll order the manual as soon as I find the number. I went to try it out today and got really really wet, so replacing this thing is my next project.
11846640_10153520087559914_4077107595779747349_n.jpg?oh=71f9c53cd44dc99a7b890215764c5540&oe=5...jpeg
 

southkogs

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Yup ... ya' need a new one. I've been told to go with the OEM (same link as above). Should be a pretty easy repair though.
 

TDiniz

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Alright, I managed to identify my drive. It's a CU-14D. I can't find that part number on the Evinrude website, only CU-16, how close are they?

EDIT: Is removal of the "leg" as easy as it looks? Just undo the bolts where it pivots and at the gear for the tilt?
 
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southkogs

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Alright, I managed to identify my drive. It's a CU-14D. I can't find that part number on the Evinrude website, only CU-16, how close are they?
Interesting ... the site only goes back to 1968 for parts. OMC started producing Stringers in '62. CU-14D is a 1966 Chevy II 153 120HP. The drives are going to be very close. Your transom seal should really be easy to figure out especially by the screw pattern and shape.

EDIT: Is removal of the "leg" as easy as it looks? Just undo the bolts where it pivots and at the gear for the tilt?
First - disconnect your shift wires inside the boat (knife connectors on the port side toward the back of the engine).
Then remove your pivot caps.
Then release the bolts on the trunions.
You can rock the drive to an upright position using the quadrant gear.

Be careful ... as soon as it's loose, it gets a little heavy.
 

TDiniz

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Maybe I'm miscounting, but my transom seal has 12 holes, and I can only find ones with 16, I cannot find a single part for my CU-14D. What do you recommend?

EDIT: After some googling, I have found many posts recommending that I drill out new holes and mount the 16 hole seal, as the opening is the same size, have you heard of this?
 
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southkogs

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I've not heard of it, but my seal is still available. I thought the 12s were out there by Sierra if no one else.

In theory drilling holes would work ... I just don't like drilling more holes in my hull if don't gotta'.
 
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