1984 Sea Ray OMC Stinger removal.

TxLime2311

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Hello everyone, I just bout my first boat. It's a '84 Sea Ray Seville. It has the OMC 305 and a OMC Stringer hanging out back, and I'm trying to remove it so I can get everything out of the boat so I can rebuild it from the hull up. Only problem I'm having is, the trim isnt working. I checked the fuses and wiring, seams good but like I said first boat. So is there a way to get the outdrive off with it up and does anyone have a write up on the removal? I ordered the manual but it's going to be a few days and I'm trying to get started today.
 

southkogs

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Welcome aboard:

I dunno how to remove a mechanical shift unit (never done it), and you'll want to take REAL GOOD CARE OF THE SHIFT CABLE (they're pricey).

I think by "trim" you mean the tilt. And on a Stringer, you can support the drive - undo the three bolts on the quadrant gear - lift the drive up and move the gear to how high or low you want the drive tilted - and then put it back together. Most likely, your tilt motor is toast. But you may wanna' check the solenoids to be sure.

Are you converting over to Mercruiser or Volvo while you're doing the rebuild?
 

TxLime2311

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Thank you for the advice on the shift cable Southkogs! I have been watching a Youtube video on removing the shift cable by sterndrive.info. Now that I know I can take the bolts off to manually lower it I'll give this a shot in the AM. Any other steps I should know about for removal? I've looked online for information on removal like the procedure but have had no luck, only for the cobra.

Not sure on the Mercruiser or Volvo. I've read a lot about the Stringer and can't decide if it's a AWESOME drive or better suited as a boat anchor. I keep seeing "OMC outdrive conversion to Mercruiser". Must mean it's a popular conversion on Google. I'll probably have to rebuild my transom, as much if my boat is rotted away. So it really shouldn't matter about the transom holes being different. I haven't done much research on the subject but since you brought it up. How much work is it to convert other than the new keyhole in the transom? Will the mercruiser bolt up easily to my OMC 305 or will I need another motor.
 

samt

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If your going to keep the OMC stringer you need to have it professionally rebuilt. Otherwise it will haunt you.
I've had no issues with tilt or trim since I installed all new solenoid, they were the root of my issues. Usually the tilt doesn't have any issue going down. I'd try jumping the solenoid to move it down.

The OMC engine is a standard GM engine as is a Volvo or Merc (almost all boat inboards are just regular GM, ford engines. A lot of jet boats are PBO motors)
 

TxLime2311

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I'll have to figure out what your talking about and where the solenoid is, my manuals haven't come in yet and I don't know much about electrical. I guess it's a good time to learn. I will probably just keep the Stringer. From what I've read, it seems that it would be cheaper to just rebuild my unit and just do routine maintenance. The majority of the Stringers that break are due to poor maintenance intervals....or lack there of. My lower unit has a crack in it so I'm in search of a new one tomorrow. I read earlier that the case on the cobra and stringer are the same just internal differences on the lower.

Can any truck carb work on a OMC motor? I had a holly style 600 that I bought for my old 72 Blazer little curious if I can use it...
 

Scott Danforth

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NO, A TRUCK CARB ON A BOAT = BOOM.

use a marine carb.

to remove your stringer, disconnect the shift cable from the interupter switch assembly (look in the stickies on top of the forums for links to manuals)
you will need to tilt up to get access to the cable locking screw under the drive where it goes thru the intermediate housing to do this, you can pull the tilt worm if needed.

once the cable is disconnected, disconnect the tilt sector

pull the pivot end cap bumpers off, and pull the 4 large bolts, then remove the pivot end caps.

drive is now off.
 

southkogs

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I've read a lot about the Stringer and can't decide if it's a AWESOME drive or better suited as a boat anchor.
The honest truth about a Stringer - coming from a guy who really likes his - is you have to decide you're "up" for one. They were a little over thought, and as such can be kinda' finicky. You need to be okay with spending time workin' on it and hunting parts every now and again.

Otherwise, there are some very cool things about the Stringer: they're quieter (IMHO) than a Merc, and if you've got True-Course steering it's a very cool steering system. I love the power delivery to the Stringers as opposed to the transom, but that's probably a minimal bit.

Good and bad - most of all, just old and obsolete.

I keep seeing "OMC outdrive conversion to Mercruiser". Must mean it's a popular conversion on Google.
There used to be a few kits around so that you didn't have to rebuild your transom. I think they've largely gone the way of the dodo.

I'll probably have to rebuild my transom, as much if my boat is rotted away.
First, check to see if your transom is a solid transom or just a hull shell. Since the Stringer doesn't marry up to the actual transom, you may not need to worry about it doesn't leak. The Stringer passes through the transom, as opposed to a Merc or Volvo that pushes on the transom.

How much work is it to convert other than the new keyhole in the transom?
Spend a little time over in the restoration forums. Rebuilding a Transom is no small project. The boat winds up tore up from the floor up :) And if you've gotta' rebuild it, I HIGHLY recommend making the switch to a different system.

Will the mercruiser bolt up easily to my OMC 305 or will I need another motor.
I'm not sure: someone else would know better than I would. But I would think your best bet would be to find a donor boat with a complete Merc or Volvo set in it and just swap the whole thing.

... again, all of this considering that you can probably find a "water ready" boat with a different drive cheaper than you can rehab this one.
 

samt

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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My transom is pretty much rotted, but has good glass on both sides. I just cut some 4x4 square plates to bolt my toe hooks through so it doesn't crack the glass. So far so good, regularly pull 300lb guys. I guess it's really just the bottom area around the key hole. But a little insurance against a big problem is great.
The only difference you will find to my knowledge with a truck carb vs marine is the marine has a port for return fuel of the fuel line diaphragm busts. I suspect a guy could tap anything for the same kind of port.
Marine carbs are supposto be coated against corrosion, but mine looks like hell.
 

Scott Danforth

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There are a few red flags

Hello everyone, I just bout my first boat. It's a '84 Sea Ray Seville. It has the OMC 305 and a OMC Stringer hanging out back, and I'm trying to remove it so I can get everything out of the boat so I can rebuild it from the hull up.

if you have to built up the boat from ground up due to rot, you may want to seriously think about simply finding another boat. It will be much much cheaper in the long run unless you absolutely have emotional attachments to the boat.

Read all the links in this sticky http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

specifically this one http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...nature-deck-and-stringer-restoration?t=510077

I will probably just keep the Stringer. From what I've read, it seems that it would be cheaper to just rebuild my unit and just do routine maintenance. The majority of the Stringers that break are due to poor maintenance intervals....or lack there of. My lower unit has a crack in it so I'm in search of a new one tomorrow. I read earlier that the case on the cobra and stringer are the same just internal differences on the lower.

Can any truck carb work on a OMC motor? I had a holly style 600 that I bought for my old 72 Blazer little curious if I can use it...

Stringers and Cobras are about as related as turnips and platypus eggs. The stringer 400 shares the lower unit with the V4 outboards, I believe the stringer 800 shares the lower with the V6 outboards, however not certain.

Stringer drives have some great features, and many where the engineers went out for a 4-shot lunch and were blitzed when they worked on it.

The only difference you will find to my knowledge with a truck carb vs marine is the marine has a port for return fuel of the fuel line diaphragm busts. I suspect a guy could tap anything for the same kind of port.
Marine carbs are supposto be coated against corrosion, but mine looks like hell.

marine carbs have returning j-tubes from the float bowls, no additional vacuum ports, a completely different jetting and setup than an automotive carb. way too many differences to list.
 

samt

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Hmm I never noticed there was that many differences.
 

TxLime2311

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There are a few red flags



if you have to built up the boat from ground up due to rot, you may want to seriously think about simply finding another boat. It will be much much cheaper in the long run unless you absolutely have emotional attachments to the boat.

Read all the links in this sticky http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

specifically this one http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...nature-deck-and-stringer-restoration?t=510077



Stringers and Cobras are about as related as turnips and platypus eggs. The stringer 400 shares the lower unit with the V4 outboards, I believe the stringer 800 shares the lower with the V6 outboards, however not certain.

Stringer drives have some great features, and many where the engineers went out for a 4-shot lunch and were blitzed when they worked on it.



marine carbs have returning j-tubes from the float bowls, no additional vacuum ports, a completely different jetting and setup than an automotive carb. way too many differences to list.

Well I might as well keep this boat. I have nothing into it. The guy I got it from wanted $200 but I talked him into trading for a broken gun I had. Got that gun from a old man that needed some help. So I have nothing in the boat so it's kinda why not use what I got. Me going out and getting another boat is out of the question. My wife would never go for me buying another boat right now. But I can slip resin, carbosil, mat, cloth, ect. Under the radar if I buy them at different times. Resin being the last thing I purchase of course due to the shelf life.

I called up a local shop today and spoke to him about my boat and I quote him. "They ain' muck I'll do on Dat ol' bow" I'm sure he meant "There ain't much I'll do on that old boat" lol. But when I asked what he would do he said he might but on a registration sticker on for me.

I have to have a marine carb!? Great! The one I have on my motor says remanufactured for GMC....maybe it's OMC. Who knows. The guy told me he took his truck carb and put it on there but put the old one back. I didn't know the difference as this is my first boat so I just went with it.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/370480290381?nav=SEARCH
Yall think this would work? I saw some for 700 bucks but that's not going to happen. I'm sure I can find a used one somewhere that I can rebuild. As long as it's something similar to the Holly type. Thanks for the help. Oh and when I asked the guy from the shop if he thought I should just get a motor out of another boat and replace the motor and outdrive. He said do you know how much money and how much of a head ache that would be? I saw on ebay someone was selling the lower case for 150 obo.maybe I'll get that one.
 

southkogs

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called up a local shop today and spoke to him about my boat and I quote him. "They ain' muck I'll do on Dat ol' bow" I'm sure he meant "There ain't much I'll do on that old boat" lol. But when I asked what he would do he said he might but on a registration sticker on for me.
None of the marine shops that I can find within an hour of my house will even look at my OMC. A couple of 'em are downright rude about it ... a couple of them had some funny, but unrepeatable in mixed company, ways of sayin', "nope."

I'm sure I can find a used one somewhere that I can rebuild. As long as it's something similar to the Holly type. Thanks for the help. Oh and when I asked the guy from the shop if he thought I should just get a motor out of another boat and replace the motor and outdrive. He said do you know how much money and how much of a head ache that would be? I saw on ebay someone was selling the lower case for 150 obo.maybe I'll get that one.
Look at donor boats off CL or marine salvage. I've even gotten a good gear case that way.
 

TxLime2311

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None of the marine shops that I can find within an hour of my house will even look at my OMC. A couple of 'em are downright rude about it ... a couple of them had some funny, but unrepeatable in mixed company, ways of sayin', "nope."


Look at donor boats off CL or marine salvage. I've even gotten a good gear case that way.

Yea, he wasn't exactly rude to me but he made it clear that he did not work on them. I'm going to have to find a boat salvage yard. I thought the guy that one that shop ran one but those are his customers boats. I'm not sure we're to find one around me. Maybe if I go to Shreveport, La.

On a good note I did get the sterndrive off, super easy. Exempt the shift cable kept getting stuck in the intermediate housing...how hard is it to ram that dang thing back in there?

Will that carb from the eBay listing work, or something along those line? I'm not exactly ready for it as I have an entire boat to go. Just like getting a plan together.
 

Scott Danforth

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remember, a free boat will be the most expensive. consider $2000+ for wood and fiberglass to repair the hull, and about another $1000+ for the drive alone. Price out a set of ball gears, new water pump assembly, and both internal driveshafts and you are actually over $1000. that doesnt include anything you would spend for interior, trailer, etc.. for $3000-$4000 you can buy a boat today and be on the water within hours.
 

TxLime2311

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remember, a free boat will be the most expensive. consider $2000+ for wood and fiberglass to repair the hull, and about another $1000+ for the drive alone. Price out a set of ball gears, new water pump assembly, and both internal driveshafts and you are actually over $1000. that doesnt include anything you would spend for interior, trailer, etc.. for $3000-$4000 you can buy a boat today and be on the water within hours.

Lol they say the same thing about first Gen Blazers. Guy got one for 500 bucks and he said he got a steal...until he pulled the carpet.

As for the boat, I know what you mean and trust me. I would love to go spend $4000 on a boat and be on the lake tomorrow but as of now...I can't. Just not in the budget. So im just going to have to chip at this thing piece by piece. Anyway I'm a project person I love taking a piece of junk and fixing it.

Really appreciate all the help from yall.
 

southkogs

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Based on some guesses, not so hot. That ski is a different type of hull and at least half the weight of your boat.

Now a true jet drive would push it fine, but i have no idea what it'll take to convert over to it. You're probably better off hunting a new(er) boat up.
 

TxLime2311

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Alright then...well I got the outdrive and the motor out. The bolts holding the motor mounts down were rusted so they weren't backing out at first but I finally got it.

Under the motor there is two thing-a-ma-bobs. I'm assuming one is the bilge pump and 1 is a circle thing with nothing on it with a wire coming out of it. It's slightly off center. They seem to be fiberglassed to the hull. Is that normal? I can't get either one to come up.

I'll have to get pictures with my iPad my phone apparently take to large of pictures.
 

southkogs

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I can't really see from that picture, but bilge pumps typically aren't glassed in. They're sort of an accessory. That almost looks like a batter holder in the photo. Was that directly under the engine?
 
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