1993 omc 5.0 rebuild from block help

dadtodc

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Ok all I am at a defeated point. I didnt winterize properly and I am paying the price with a cracked block. I picked up a used block and I am going to rebuild this thing. I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves and what kind of engine rebuild kit should I get? I have looked for hours on iboats for the kit. I see several but I do not see one that includes bearings and such. Mostly just gaskets. Also I think I need to disconnect the out drive before I pull out. I have read and watched several videos on this nd it looks like all I have to do is disconnect the out drive, and then just the mount bolts and its out. Is it really this simple or am I missing something? If anyone has suggestions on replacement kit from an auto parts store or any one else let m know. thanks SO much!
 

alldodge

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Ok all I am at a defeated point. I didnt winterize properly and I am paying the price with a cracked block. I picked up a used block and I am going to rebuild this thing. I was wondering if anyone has done this themselves and what kind of engine rebuild kit should I get? I have looked for hours on iboats for the kit.
Engine rebuild kits can be obtained from your local NAPA and the like, or online such as Summit racing and others. You don't want to buy the kit until the engine has been taken apart, inspected and determined what is usable and how much the engine will be bored, cranked turned and cam bearings.

I see several but I do not see one that includes bearings and such. Mostly just gaskets. Also I think I need to disconnect the out drive before I pull out. I have read and watched several videos on this nd it looks like all I have to do is disconnect the out drive, and then just the mount bolts and its out. Is it really this simple or am I missing something? If anyone has suggestions on replacement kit from an auto parts store or any one else let m know. thanks SO much!

Yes you have to remove the drive before you pull the engine.
 

dadtodc

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Thanks ALLDODGE. I am taking the block, heads and the intake to a machine shop. I have been looking and watching videos for a few days. I will call Napa in the morning to get prices. Any suggestions from experience that might save me headaches? Tools that will make the job easier? Thanks!
 

Skutt

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dadtodc, good luck with your engine. I am also into an engine replacement but I bought a rebuilt long block to put back in. Like AllDodge said, as far as bearings, rings, lifters and such internal engine components they are the same as in a car except for the camshaft. As far as gaskets go most will be the same but not all, you need to use marine head gaskets and marine soft plugs in the block. Are you having the machine shop do the complete rebuild or just do the prep on the block and heads then put it together yourself? If it doesn't need to be bored then I wouldn't bore the block, too expensive. If the crank is within specs then I would use it as is too. I am assuming you are putting it back together as a stock engine. Have fun with it.
 

alldodge

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Thanks ALLDODGE. I am taking the block, heads and the intake to a machine shop. I have been looking and watching videos for a few days. I will call Napa in the morning to get prices. Any suggestions from experience that might save me headaches? Tools that will make the job easier? Thanks!

You should take the crank and cam to the machine shop also to be checked. Your going to need a couple torque wrenches and a service manual for your engine. Doing it yourself can be done but never doing one before can cause you some real issues. You can still do it but there are a lot of things like checking clearances (micrometer, plastic gauge), squish and flatness are critical measurements. Would be nice if you could find a friend to help which has done it before, or at least discuss.

Could have the machine shop assemble the long block, but at the least have them install the cam bearings. You need a special tool to install cam bearings and it doesn't cost that much. It is best to use a marine head gasket but the cam is a truck cam, nothing special. If your engine did not come from a truck you may want to change the cam. Use brass freeze plugs and not steel. A good machine shop is a real plus and they can help.

We will be here to help
 

dadtodc

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Thanks a ton. I am taking everything over tonight to have a friend that does this look at the block. The cam came from an f150 so I think ill be ok there. I will get torque wrenches and all that stuff from the friend. Also gonna borrow two engine stands to do this. I will document and take lots of pics for future DIYers. I will update as soon as I have more to share. Thanks for your time!
 

dadtodc

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You should take the crank and cam to the machine shop also to be checked. Your going to need a couple torque wrenches and a service manual for your engine. Doing it yourself can be done but never doing one before can cause you some real issues. You can still do it but there are a lot of things like checking clearances (micrometer, plastic gauge), squish and flatness are critical measurements. Would be nice if you could find a friend to help which has done it before, or at least discuss.

Could have the machine shop assemble the long block, but at the least have them install the cam bearings. You need a special tool to install cam bearings and it doesn't cost that much. It is best to use a marine head gasket but the cam is a truck cam, nothing special. If your engine did not come from a truck you may want to change the cam. Use brass freeze plugs and not steel. A good machine shop is a real plus and they can help.

We will be here to help

Ok Ho do I get the flywheel housing off the back of the motor? I have the bolts all out and I have it seperated from the block about 1/2 inch.Cant get it any further. There are no more bolts at all. Any suggestions?
 

alldodge

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Ok Ho do I get the flywheel housing off the back of the motor? I have the bolts all out and I have it seperated from the block about 1/2 inch.Cant get it any further. There are no more bolts at all. Any suggestions?

If you have all the bolts out it should come right off. There is a dust shield on the front which has a few 5/16 bolt heads on it, but other then that it should come right off
 

dadtodc

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Well I have a huge question. I bought a marine motor that was running when taken out. Te fella I bought from is a well known mechanic that took the motor out himself from a friend of his boat. The friend was at a total loss with a boat that had a cracked hull. He told me it was a 1987 302. Motor. He measured my intake and measured the one on the motor he took off and they were both 9"'s. I bought the motor complete with out drive for 700 bucks. I have borrowed 2 motor stands so that i could set them together and strip the new motor to the block and just switch over key components from broken motor. There is a model plate on the valve covers but I cant read it. I noticed that nothing looks the same and that when I look up a 87-88 omc they dont look the same.So I have been sitting here looking at pics of omc motors by years. Sooooo Now I know I bought a 1977 omc. Its isnt a 302 though I dont think. I think it is a 351. It had a 4 barrel eddlebrock on it that the guy kept. Is there a way without taking this thing apart to check it? Will this older ( By 16 years) motor still work for my switch?
 

dadtodc

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If you have all the bolts out it should come right off. There is a dust shield on the front which has a few 5/16 bolt heads on it, but other then that it should come right off

I didnt have all the 5/16 bolts out. Didnt see one of them. Thanks
 

alldodge

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Well I have a huge question. I bought a marine motor that was running when taken out. Te fella I bought from is a well known mechanic that took the motor out himself from a friend of his boat. The friend was at a total loss with a boat that had a cracked hull. He told me it was a 1987 302. Motor. He measured my intake and measured the one on the motor he took off and they were both 9"'s. I bought the motor complete with out drive for 700 bucks. I have borrowed 2 motor stands so that i could set them together and strip the new motor to the block and just switch over key components from broken motor. There is a model plate on the valve covers but I cant read it. I noticed that nothing looks the same and that when I look up a 87-88 omc they dont look the same.So I have been sitting here looking at pics of omc motors by years. Sooooo Now I know I bought a 1977 omc. Its isnt a 302 though I dont think. I think it is a 351. It had a 4 barrel eddlebrock on it that the guy kept. Is there a way without taking this thing apart to check it? Will this older ( By 16 years) motor still work for my switch?

Look on the block for the casting number. The number will start with a letter and look something like this: C80E-6015A
 

dadtodc

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https://plus.google.com/117624469589686867733/posts/iaLqJRcDjNG

Please take a look. I cant get the intermediate bellhousing off of this gigantic marine motor. Also look at the pic of the motor that I am replacing and the model number plate. You will have to zoom in. but the numbers I can make out are CSG 350 M . z8 . opt . Thanks again for the help. I have taken lots of pics of this ordeal and will post with descriptions for others to learn from my mistakes. This forum is the best ever!
 

southkogs

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I think the ball gear and shaft have to come out before you can remove the intermediate housing off of that engine.

And then you'll probably wanna' clean that ball gear up and sell it on the web. You might pay for some of your other work that way ;)
 

alldodge

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https://plus.google.com/117624469589686867733/posts/iaLqJRcDjNG

Please take a look. I cant get the intermediate bellhousing off of this gigantic marine motor. Also look at the pic of the motor that I am replacing and the model number plate. You will have to zoom in. but the numbers I can make out are CSG 350 M . z8 . opt . Thanks again for the help. I have taken lots of pics of this ordeal and will post with descriptions for others to learn from my mistakes. This forum is the best ever!

I'm coming up empty, found this pdf file which list models but CSG doesn't show up
http://shop.evinrude.com/media/document/ModelNumberReference.pdf

Found this on one sight which said this is the easiest way to determine engine is count valve cover bolts
  • 2 bolts: 239/256/272/292/312 (produced from 1954 to 1964)
  • 5 bolts: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428 (FE engine)
  • 6 bolts: 221/260/289/302/351W
  • 7 bolts: 429/460
  • 8 bolts: 351C/351M/400

See this link to be able to tell how to determine the difference between the 302 and 351
http://www.fordification.com/tech/engineID-V8.htm
 

dadtodc

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I'm coming up empty, found this pdf file which list models but CSG doesn't show up
http://shop.evinrude.com/media/document/ModelNumberReference.pdf

Found this on one sight which said this is the easiest way to determine engine is count valve cover bolts
  • 2 bolts: 239/256/272/292/312 (produced from 1954 to 1964)
  • 5 bolts: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428 (FE engine)
  • 6 bolts: 221/260/289/302/351W
  • 7 bolts: 429/460
  • 8 bolts: 351C/351M/400


See this link to be able to tell how to determine the difference between the 302 and 351
http://www.fordification.com/tech/engineID-V8.htm

I am glad you didnt find anything....hahaha ... I got the intermetiate housing off. The ball gear and shaft were seized in the fly wheel. I went to Advanced auto and borrowed a push pull hammer with adapter. It wasnt meant for this but with a little cussing and moving it did the trick. Now my hands are killing me. I took the fly wheel off and I am now at the block. About to put on the engine stand. Ill post pics later and I will also post a stamped number if I find one.
 

dadtodc

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I'm coming up empty, found this pdf file which list models but CSG doesn't show up
http://shop.evinrude.com/media/document/ModelNumberReference.pdf

Found this on one sight which said this is the easiest way to determine engine is count valve cover bolts
  • 2 bolts: 239/256/272/292/312 (produced from 1954 to 1964)
  • 5 bolts: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428 (FE engine)
  • 6 bolts: 221/260/289/302/351W
  • 7 bolts: 429/460
  • 8 bolts: 351C/351M/400


See this link to be able to tell how to determine the difference between the 302 and 351
http://www.fordification.com/tech/engineID-V8.htm

I found the block casting. Cant believe I overlooked it. The block casting is as follows

D80E-6015-EGA The last three letters I am not 100% on the G could be a 6 or 8 I cant tell

From what I can tell it is a 1978 clevelend 351 big block.However it measures the same as my 302.
 

alldodge

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I found the block casting. Cant believe I overlooked it. The block casting is as follows

D80E-6015-EGA The last three letters I am not 100% on the G could be a 6 or 8 I cant tell

From what I can tell it is a 1978 clevelend 351 big block.However it measures the same as my 302.

What I can find I would agree it is a 351C from 1975-7980
http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/detail/18467/D8xx

D=1970-1979
8=1978
O=Fairlane and Torino
E=Engine group

6015= part number

I get lost after that
 

dadtodc

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May 29, 2011
Messages
117
I'm coming up empty, found this pdf file which list models but CSG doesn't show up
http://shop.evinrude.com/media/document/ModelNumberReference.pdf

Found this on one sight which said this is the easiest way to determine engine is count valve cover bolts
  • 2 bolts: 239/256/272/292/312 (produced from 1954 to 1964)
  • 5 bolts: 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428 (FE engine)
  • 6 bolts: 221/260/289/302/351W
  • 7 bolts: 429/460
  • 8 bolts: 351C/351M/400


See this link to be able to tell how to determine the difference between the 302 and 351
http://www.fordification.com/tech/engineID-V8.htm

I found the block casting. D80e-6015-ESA...
 

dadtodc

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Well I am leaving the lake now. I rebuilt the motor and and reinstalled. Didn't have time to test on muffs because we are camping. I figured I would just back down ramp and leave it connected. I cranked in wot. I turned off. Adjusted carb choke. Cranked again. Wot once again. This time I let it run for about 5 seconds. Turned off adjusted carb cranked again in wot. This time there was a knock.......didn't hear it the entire time I was priming yhe fuel pump or the first actual cranks. Now I hear it during the cranking process. Still in wot. I took the boat home and left it. Could this be a rod issue now due to wot crank on motor that had a new oil pump. Is this a case of replacing the rod, or am I screwed
 

Bondo

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I cranked in wot.
Cranked again. Wot once again.
Turned off adjusted carb cranked again in wot. This time there was a knock.
Still in wot.
Could this be a rod issue now due to wot crank on motor that had a new oil pump.

Ayuh,...... I'm confused,... Why are ya startin' a New motor, at Wide Open Throttle in the 1st place,..??..??..??

Is the throttle cable hooked up,..?? Why aren't ya pullin' back on it when it starts,..??.??
 
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