1989 OMC King Cobra Remote Control & Cable Replacement - Is it time?

JPA

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Have a 1989 Four Winns 210 Horizon w/ 5.7L King Cobra outdrive. Have owned the boat for the past 3 season and it seems to be about the same since I owned it, so not sure what is normal. I just changed the Bellows & Gimbal Bearing. While researching I found the hasting's info about critical cable adjustment or plan on eating gears.

The shifter is hard to initially engage, (forward or reverse) but very easy after it passes the 11 or 1 o'clock position. Have removed all the cables from the remote control. It takes 2 lbs (on a spring scale) to move the shifter from full forward toward neutral, but 10 lbs to move from 11:00 - 12:00 o'clock position. Same on reverse - 2 lbs to move from full reverse to 1:00 o'clock, then 10 pounds to move it to neutral. It seems to stick. Is this normal? When I pull the shifter out to run just the throttle, it moves the entire range easily at 2 lbs. Can the shifter be repaired or must it be replaced?

I have tested the disconnected cables. All 3 cables (Shift, Throttle & Transom) take 4.5 lbs to pull them. According to the manual, everything should run 2.5 lbs, when connected. Time to replace? or adjusted? Just want to verify with someone that has experience with the cobras before I shell out hundreds $$

Thanks in advance for the feedback!
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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Do you have a picture of your outdrive or a model number?
 

bruceb58

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Have you ever had your lower shift cable replaced? Might be time.
 

JPA

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Update: Removed remote control. Disassembled remote control. Found the drive gear was installed 90 degrees off. The notch of the drive gear (#6) did not line up with the notch in shift gear & arms assembly (#50) I adjusted drive gear 90 degrees & lined up notches. Reinstalled remote and tested resistance. It takes 1.5 lbs (on a spring scale) to move the shifter from full forward toward neutral, and 6 lbs to move from 11:00 - 12:00 o'clock position. Same on reverse - 1.5 lbs to move from full reverse to 1:00 o'clock, then 6 pounds to move it to neutral. There is resistance, but it is smooth between 11 - 1 position, no hard chunking.

Looks like the remote control in now working correctly, unless someone has other thoughts...

Cables are still a question... Is 4.5 lbs too much resistance?
Remote control.gif
 

bruceb58

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If you disconnect the lower shift cable where the lower and console cable meet, how does it feel?
 

Lou C

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That sounds like a lot, I still have original OMC control on my boat and with the drive off takes very little effort to move, although I have not tried to measure the drag this way. If you disconnected the cable as Bruce said above, how much effort does it take to move? Are you squeezing the release on the handle when checking, or pushing against the detent? I checked my transom cable drag the last time I adjusted it and it was 1.5 lbs.
However, its really how much the cables take to move disconnected from both ends that matters. I have a brand new Teleflex CH1700 that I have not installed yet. It has a much more positive neutral detent than the OMC control had and takes more effort to get into neutral than the OMC did, but that in itself will not cause stiff shifting as long as the cable drag is not too high and the cables (both the one from the remote control to the bellcrank on the engine and the transom shift cable from the bellcrank to the drive) are both adjusted properly.
 
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JPA

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disconnected the cable and it is smooth. Secured cables firmly between the remote control and the back of the engine. That took out much of the play and slack. Cables are much smoother and the system moves forward and back at 3# of pressure. It only takes 4.5 pounds between 11 - 1 o'clock positions of remote. Entire cable and remote system is the smoothest it has ever been, since I owned the boat. I'm thinking the drag is in the acceptable range, as the spring scale I am using goes up to 60 pounds and I am not sure of the low end accuracy.

Thanks for your help!
 

Lou C

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I never actually measured mine that way but I know if its disconnected at both ends the transom shift cable should not be more than 2.5 lbs. So what you have might be fine. With everything set up right it should shift very easy, both in and out of gear. Make sure you idle is as low as you can get it (like 600 in neutral, 550 in gear on the water) and the ESA system works right.
 

jerryjerry05

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On the transom assy.
There is a piece called the "bellcrank" #42
Under the end it can become corroded and eventually lock in place and can be bent from pushing into gear.

Remove it and clean the area.
You have the tool to set the shift mechanism?
Then after you reassemble, GREASE,GREASE and more GREASE.
Fill the cavity with grease..
 

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Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Yep that really helps. Also there are 2 drains for the pivot housing on that side. The one that is near the bellcrank, make sure to seal the threads with OMC gasket sealer or it can let water into that area.
 

Keaton

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Feb 17, 2015
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JPA, where did you find the model number on your stern drive? where are you getting those parts diagrams
 
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