1988 2.3L OMC troubleshoot

VIPVision88

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Jan 26, 2015
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Hey there,

Having some trouble getting my VIP going. the Timing appears to on point and there is plenty of fuel getting to the card which was rebuilt 2 years ago. Once she gets going, she's good except for at very low idle (stalls sometimes shifting from neutral to either forward or reverse). Even after warmed up, if she shuts down it can be difficult restarting.

Just purchased a tune up kit with distributor cap and will be trading it out this weekend. Any other ideas?

Thanks,
-J
 

alldodge

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Hey there,

Having some trouble getting my VIP going. the Timing appears to on point and there is plenty of fuel getting to the card which was rebuilt 2 years ago. Once she gets going, she's good except for at very low idle (stalls sometimes shifting from neutral to either forward or reverse). Even after warmed up, if she shuts down it can be difficult restarting.

Just purchased a tune up kit with distributor cap and will be trading it out this weekend. Any other ideas?

Thanks,
-J

:welcome: to iboats

Kind of sounds like the carb maybe flooding the engine. When the engine is running look down the carb throat to see if you see fuel going in. After the engine is shut off look again down the throat and see if you see fuel dripping.

Have you changed the fuel filter?
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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If it's having trouble when you shift?
Then I'd guess the shift cable needs adjustment or replacing possible the bellcrank needs cleaning.

The shift mechanism when working right it momentarily kills the motor for a microsecond.
If the cables bad or the bellcrank is gummed up it can make the actuator stay engaged and stall the motor and keep it in stall mode until it moves away from the kill spot.

Remove the drive.
Check the bellcrank for crud.
Remove and reinstall.
After cleaning and it still does it. Change the cable.
 

VIPVision88

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:welcome: to iboats

Kind of sounds like the carb maybe flooding the engine. When the engine is running look down the carb throat to see if you see fuel going in. After the engine is shut off look again down the throat and see if you see fuel dripping.

Have you changed the fuel filter?

Flooding? Really? We we're almost thinking the opposite. We are going to check for both. I am fairly new to engines, especially Marine, so that you for pointing out the fuel filter. You're talking about the fuel water separator correct? I looked into it and went ahead and ordered one. Don't think it has been replaced in a good amount of time.
 

jerryjerry05

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There is a small filter in the carb.
The 2.3l came with a factory water/ fuel sep system.
Take the filter off and check to see what's inside???
The small filter at the carb shouldn't see any crud if the big filter is working.
Before you spend a lot in parts, I'd pull the drive and check the bellcrank for corrosion.
 

VIPVision88

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There is a small filter in the carb.
The 2.3l came with a factory water/ fuel sep system.
Take the filter off and check to see what's inside???
The small filter at the carb shouldn't see any crud if the big filter is working.
Before you spend a lot in parts, I'd pull the drive and check the bellcrank for corrosion.


Hey Jerry,

I think I might have thrown you off a bit with the comment about shifting gears. It shifts okay, but then the low idle speed is what kills it I think. Right now we are having some trouble getting it started, but I will definitely check for Corrosion anyways.

I'm new to engines, so I appreciate all the advice.
Thanks
 

VIPVision88

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Guess I should also ask you Jerry if the cable or bellcrank would affect the engine starting or not. We are able to prime the engine with the throttle in neutral to the point were it sounds like its going to fire, but it's just a tease.
 

jerryjerry05

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Yes the corrosion/ crud on the bellcrank can hold the shift module in stall mode.
What RPM's is the motor running at in idle?
You've got a points system make sure they are opening/ closing as the motor turns.

At the shift mechanism on the motor. #37 on the diagram.There is a lever that you can move back and forth. Try that and see if the motor fires.
 

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Bulbash

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Jerry is correct. First you must remove the drive and readjust the shift cable... Was shift cable ever adjusted on your boat? It needs to be done every season...
 

bruceb58

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You don't need to mess with the cable yet. Just unplug the ESA and see how your engine works. If things change after you unplug the ESA, then you need to look at the cable.

Even with the ESA in there, once you have the shifter all the way into gear, the ESA is bypassed at that point.
 
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Bulbash

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It is still important to adjust shift cable on a seasonal basis..
 

bruceb58

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It is still important to adjust shift cable on a seasonal basis..
If your cable needs adjusting on a seasonal basis, you have a cable that is failing. It may stretch initially but it should never need to be touched again.
 

clanton

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You said timing appears to be on point. Timing should be rechecked until you are sure it is correct. These engines have a history of the pin holding the gear on the end of the dist shaft breaking and the gear shifting and changing the timing. Do what the other posters say, but verify the timing is correct.
 
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