Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

octave11

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Jan 29, 2013
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HI
I replaced my plugs, cap, rotor, condenser, points, and wires. The last time i took it out at the end of the boating season (September 2013) the timing was off. I was told since i didn't pull the distributor timing should be fine. Its not. I really want to adjust the timing on the muffs alone to be sure that is the problem before i take it out again. I've conflicting answers on the question. Any help on the subject would be great!
 

Bondo

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

HI
I replaced my plugs, cap, rotor, condenser, points, and wires. The last time i took it out at the end of the boating season (September 2013) the timing was off. I was told since i didn't pull the distributor timing should be fine. Its not. I really want to adjust the timing on the muffs alone to be sure that is the problem before i take it out again. I've conflicting answers on the question. Any help on the subject would be great!

Ayuh,.... What motor,..??
 

Bifflefan

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May 27, 2009
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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

HI
I replaced my plugs, cap, rotor, condenser, points, and wires.

Your are correct. If you did not redo the timing after changing the points, its off.
What motor are we taking about?
 

octave11

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

can i adjust on muffs? using a timing light of course.
 

bruceb58

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

When you set the dwell of the points, use a dwell meter. Then you set the timing.
 

octave11

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

from what i gather... a dwell meter is used to set the gap in the points at the high spot of the distributor cam. since they are new points would using a feeler gauge to set them and a timing for the rest do the trick?
 

bruceb58

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

Always use a dwell meter. Way more accurate than using a feeler gauge.
 

Lou C

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

Since you are asking...here are the specs from my '88 shop manual....
point gap 0.018", dwell 30*+- 2*, idle 500-600 rpm (in fwd gear in the water, on land might be a bit higher I usually set it at 600)
timing, if using regular gas 3*BTDC, if using premium gas 5*BTDC
Keep in mind that these use mechanical (centrifugal) advance distributors and the springs/weights can get corroded which can also throw off the timing. If you pull off the rotor you will see a felt wick inside the dist shaft, give this a few drops of motor oil each season that will lube the weights/springs and their pivots. If they get stuck you will have to remove the plate that the points mount to in order to free them up. Also you have to put a bit of dist cam grease on the dist cam to lube it so the rubbing block of the points does not wear out prematurely. I usually change my points/condenser every 4-5 seasons or sooner if they get excessively pitted. I do check the dwell, idle and timing every season though. While many want to convert to an electronic dist, with the dog clutch Cobras you are better off sticking with the points, unless you get a CDI ESA unit that will work with an electronic distributor.
 

octave11

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Re: Timing on 1988 OMC Cobra

that is very good information. thanks for the detailed reply.
 

Bondo

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I Have a 1988 2455 Bayliner ciera with a king cobra 5.0 305 v8. I have pulled the motor and finished rebuilding the engine. I also changed the points, spark plugs, cap and rotor, and ignition coil. Before i drop the engine back in i have set it up for a bench test. I hooked up the positive jumper cable to the starter solenoid (positive tereminal) and the other end to the positive of the battery. I connected the ground cable to the engine and then to the battery (Negative terminal).I then a ran wire from the positive terminal of the Ignition solenoid and then ran it to my batteries positive terminal at which time she turned over but does not have any spark at all. what am i missing here?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... The positive 12v wire to the coil's (+) terminal, to energize the ignition,.....
 
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