Re: Step by step DIY for lower shift cable replacement?
There is a ton of information on this, all over this and other forums, but not all in one place. If I had to give advice I'd say to get the tools first, there are 3 special tools that you need to easily adjust the shift system. The shift rod in the lower unit has to be the right height, the bellcrank in the pivot housing has to be held at a 90* angle to while setting the correct adjustment for the transom shift cable (this also requires another tool to hold the cable end at the correct setting to do the adjustment at the cable retainer). In addition to those adjustments, the cable from the remote control also has to be adjusted at the bellcrank on the engine bracket. You start with the drive off and make sure the shift rod height is correct. Then you do the transom shift cable and next the remote control cable.
I was able to get the OMC tools but you can get tools that will work for this job from forum member Midnight Wolf. There are also instructions on his website to explain the adjustment procedure. You have to look and see which one of the PDF files applies to your model. The difference is some models had the slot on the engine bellcrank on the bottom (86-87), some had it on the top (88 and up). There is also an OMC service bulletin that nicely summarizes the key points to keep in mind.
Midnight Wolf Sales - OMC Tools
When the shift linkage is properly adjusted it will shift very easily, like with 2 finger pressure.
The transom shift cable should not have more than 2 lbs of drag measured with a fish scale.
The engine idle needs to be as low as possible for it to shift easily (like 550 rpm in the water in gear).
The area behind the pivot housing bellcrank needs to be cleaned out and packed with OMC triple guard grease to prevent sticky shifting. Deposits tend to build up behind the bellcrank because water sometimes leaks in that area.