Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Store Links Mobile - Shop Now

Announcement

Collapse

Help Tip: If you have a question that has not been answered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new thread of your own. By starting your own thread, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum members.

Below are some additional forum policies in hopes of all iboats members will follow, Thank you.

1. Please do not reply to old topics or hijack existing topics. Old topics of a technical nature are like a library book, Please do not write in them.

2. Old topics should be considered archives and used for reference only. Please do not reply to them.

3. Do not take over someone else’s topic (aka hijack) with your own question, even if it is similar. If you have a question that has not been covered to your satisfaction in the archives, it is always best to start a new topic of your own.

4. If you have a question for the original poster (OP) and the topic is over 30 days old, send the OP a PM, he may not even visit the forums any longer, or may not notice your question in the old topic.

5. By starting your own topic, you will receive the maximum number of views by forum helpers that may not even notice your question when it’s posted at the end of someone else’s topic. And those answers will be specific to your particular issue.

6. Please do not post to topics that have been inactive for more than 3 months unless you are the original poster. We have very active forums and any topic that remains inactive for that long should be considered "dead". It is especially confusing when there is an entirely new question posted to an old topic.

7. Posting at the end of any topic is considered to be hijacking the original posters topic which in turn subjects the topic to be closed if it continues to happen thus not making it fair to the original poster in the future had for some reason he/she needed to return for additional information or provide an update of the problem solved which is always welcomed within a reasonable amount of time frame.

8. Please note that you should see a red banner pop up near the bottom of each inactive topic asking you not to reply to old topics. The Red banner will read: Please note this topic has been inactive for 90 days. For the best results, please start a new topic.

Thank you all in advance for doing your part in helping iboats run a smooth ship.

Additional forum rules linked below.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum-rules-guidelines-405/
See more
See less

Solenoid Part# F-1900-M-2 for 1969 V-177 Swinger, engine HUTM-69

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Solenoid Part# F-1900-M-2 for 1969 V-177 Swinger, engine HUTM-69

    I cannot seem to find the solenoid referenced to this title. The current one clicks when i try to start the boat with the key. I used a jumper wire to by-pass the terminal that goes to the starter with the hot wire and the motor cranks. So i believe the solenoid is bad. I went to my local parts store and we matched up the old with a new solenoid (parts man stated looks like ford solenoid). I went home and installed the new solenoid and not a thing happens when I turn the key to the start position. Could this be that i did not purchase a marine solenoid? Any ideas?

  • #2
    Could this be that i did not purchase a marine solenoid? Any ideas?
    Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... I'd sooner think ya got it wired up wrong,....

    Ya need a test light or multimeter to chase down where ya got power, 'n where ya don't,....

    Ya probably oughta start by removin' 'n cleanin' to shiny metal Clean, all the terminals involved with the Start circuit, includin' the battery, 'n all the Grounds,....

    Comment


    • #3
      I agree ... sounds like ya' have the right solenoid. That's the way they would reference mine at the parts store when I had my OMC.

      Welcome aboard.
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_270443_1499813187632_202[/ATTACH]

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you. I will look into that. But i am almost 100% sure that it is wired correctly, i took a picture of the location of the wires before i removed the old solenoid............. I then had my wife turn the key to the on position, the meter read 12.6 volts on the battery side, I then had her turn the key to the crank/start position, I then had the power from the little wire which i believe sends the signal to engage the solenoid to the starter. But there is no power going from the solenoid to the starter when the key is in the crank/start position.

        Comment


        • #5
          I think I have the right one ... see if this helps:
          Click image for larger version

Name:	OMC diagram.png
Views:	1
Size:	275.7 KB
ID:	276270
          [ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_270443_1499813187632_202[/ATTACH]

          Comment


          • #6
            Looks like i do have my wires in the correct positions. I have a 69 service manual for this boat and motor. Looks like my wires to the solenoid are in the correct positions. I do not understand why I am not getting the results that I should be by turn the key on? The old solenoid would click, i guess try to engage the, but the new one does absolutely nothing.

            Comment


            • #7
              By the way, THANK YOU southkogs for the diagram!!!!!

              Comment


              • #8
                Over the weekend I narrowed down my solenoid problem, IT WAS A FAULTY SOLENOID!!!! Who would of thought by purchasing something new you would have a faulty solenoid. I guess it happens?? Thanks for all of your help. I know i will have more questions along the way, as this boat has been sitting for 20+ years in the boat shed. Again thanks!!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Not that unusual. I had a couple go sour after I had just replaced 'em. Seems frustrating ... but at least it's cheap
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_270443_1499813187632_202[/ATTACH]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Interesting, I had a 1975 Merc tilt solenoid that just clicked when you hit the tilt button. I diagnosed that the solenoid was getting full current but not passing it thru to the output side. I decided to disassemble the solenoid to learn how they function. They are a super simple device.

                    I had to drill the rivets that hold it together to take it apart. I was amazed at how pristine this 40 y/o solenoid was inside. All of the components were almost still shiny copper. Never the less I scuffed up all of the contact surfaces and used long screws, with nuts, to put it back together. I hooked it up and it still did nothing more than click.

                    I took it apart again and chucked up the armature in a cordless drill. I then slathered the contact ledge with fine valve grinding compound, inserted it down into the solenoid body and spun it around like I was grinding valves. I cleaned everything up, reassembled the solenoid and VOILA, it worked like a champ. There was absolutely nothing wrong that could be visually seen but obviously there was a mismatch in the contact parts that was remedied by a lapping.

                    BTW, there are two different wiring configurations for Ford style solenoids that are often used in boats. One is for the starter and the other is for things like tilts and trim systems. Visually, they look the same.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Boomyal View Post
                      Interesting, I had a 1975 Merc tilt solenoid that just clicked when you hit the tilt button. I diagnosed that the solenoid was getting full current but not passing it thru to the output side. I decided to disassemble the solenoid to learn how they function. They are a super simple device.

                      I had to drill the rivets that hold it together to take it apart. I was amazed at how pristine this 40 y/o solenoid was inside. All of the components were almost still shiny copper. Never the less I scuffed up all of the contact surfaces and used long screws, with nuts, to put it back together. I hooked it up and it still did nothing more than click.

                      I took it apart again and chucked up the armature in a cordless drill. I then slathered the contact ledge with fine valve grinding compound, inserted it down into the solenoid body and spun it around like I was grinding valves. I cleaned everything up, reassembled the solenoid and VOILA, it worked like a champ. There was absolutely nothing wrong that could be visually seen but obviously there was a mismatch in the contact parts that was remedied by a lapping.

                      BTW, there are two different wiring configurations for Ford style solenoids that are often used in boats. One is for the starter and the other is for things like tilts and trim systems. Visually, they look the same.
                      I did take a solenoid apart a couple of years ago that was on a boat i previously owned. Seemed to me when I did, I ruined it, there was a wire soldered to the inners and there was no way to clean or never the less take it apart without ruining it. I guess certain solenoids are made different. Brings up my next question, you stated there are basically two different styles of solenoids, starter and for things like tilt/trim. How would i know the difference between the two? I have two soleniods clicking for the tilt trim. I am going to go to the local parts store when i have time and try to match them up?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Of course my only disassembly experience was with the Ford style solenoid configured for use with the trim and tilt. Once I popped the rivets for the bottom plate there were only two separate parts inside. One was the center armature and the spring it rides on. When the solenoid is energized, the field around the inside of the solenoid case is magnetized. This drives the armature (against the spring tension) to make contact with the two primary metal lug contacts inside the case. The main current now travels from the lug hooked to the battery, across the armature inside the case, to the contact for the lug with the cable that goes to the starter or tilt motor. When the voltage to the energizing post (S) is cut off, the field de-magnatizes and the spring pushes the armature back away from the primary lug contacts inside the solenoid. It was at those lug contacts that my armature was not making contact until I lapped them. This was the case even though the armature contact ledge and the lug contacts were clean with no signs of any burning or distortion.

                        The differences between the tilt solenoid and the starter solenoid are several fold. First of all the mounting bracket for the tilt does not ground the solenoid like it does on the starter version. The other is in the two small posts on the front of the solenoid. I think that the letter designations for the posts are identical between the two. I think that the one on the left marked "S" is the energizing connection for both solenoids. For the starter version, the one on the right, marked "I", delivers a full 12 v when the solenoid is energized then shuts off when the key or switch is released. On the tilt version, that post becomes the ground for the the (S) energizing terminal. It never carries voltage.

                        That being said, either one is simple to diagnose if one knows what the different connections are for and how it works internally.
                        Last edited by Boomyal; September 21st, 2017, 05:18 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sign up today
                          Any time I am about to replace a solenoid I ground the bracket and test it on a battery to ascertain it is the correct one as some are non grounded base or as said above defective. I also have taken apart some of them and was able to save it by cleaning the contacts.
                          1980 Donzi 18'. 2+3 6.2 MPI Alpha 1

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X