New Owner - 66 Deluxe 17ft OMC, 225 V6 Buick, Stringer, 14.25-20 prop

[Edthediscoman]

Hi All,
Just learning about this boat. Fixed the clutch mechanism, motor and packed with grease (Thanks forum)
Took her out for a spin last week and only getting to 3K Rpm.
Back to house. Took off cap and rotor. Looks like new points/rotor and cap. Gave them a clean.

Here's where it gets interesting.

Took out spark plugs. 4 were a nice tan color.
The two rears, when looking backwards were (1) a little sooty - port rear.
MELTED - Starboard rear. and loose! it has to be a quarter turn loose. The plug was melted.
Well, usually that tells me its lean and HOT. But, could it have been due to plug being loose or something else?.

Also, would be good to know anything more on this engine - e.g. rebuild kit for carb available? What Carb is it? Looks like single barrel.
(Can't seem to find it, or dizzy info etc). Perhaps the 71 Jeep motor?

Let me have a read on the rules and I will post some pics. The first ones didn't come in.

Looking forward to hearing from anyone with a little more knowledge than I.....which is pretty much anyone!
Ed
Riverside, Ca.

 

[Edthediscoman]

I see we need 3 posts to get to photo status, so I added the Avatar to get the boat up.

Other Items:
The windshield tilts up fine, but the glass is a little loose in the frame. Any thoughts or type of adhesive to hold it in? Or consult a glass shop. They just don't make them like this anymore and the black goop won't be good enough. Plus not sure I trust a 20yr old with irreplaceable glass.

Bimini tops
I will be ordering an aftermarket one and fit myself, but being my first boat, anything to look at before I do - height/length tips? when it drops, is it supposed to fall on the rear deck or motor housing? I know these sound basic but bare with me.

As I get these things sorted I will take pics so that for future reference, anyone redoing this boat will have a beginners guide.

Thanks
Ed

 

[Scott Danforth]

if a plug is loose, it will melt. it cant transfer heat to the head.

its a single barrel rochester. the motor is a buick motor (so is the old Jeep as Buick sold the 225 to Jeep, then bought it back) however the marine kit will be for your OMC. the block and heads are same between the car and marine motor, however that is it. distributor, starter, alternator, carburetor, cam, exhaust are all marine only

unfortunately you have a motor drive combination that is extremely obsolete. Buick quit supplying motors about 40 years ago and OMC has been out of business for almost 20 years. this being your first boat will most likely sour you on boating.

you need a minimum of 3 posts under your belt before you can post pics.

 

[Edthediscoman]

I found the clutch pack in Florida and a prop from a junkyard. Clutch all went together smoothly and with a little honing the prop slid on and fits snug with no vibration during the first outing. Should have given it a tune up prior to floating but wasn't sure how to run it - now thanks to forum I do.

Noticed that this has the mechanical advance - and the vacuum is capped. The points have been replaced at some point with the same one I picked up for the jeep motor (71).

Tonight will rebuild the carb and perhaps tomorrow night run the engine in the driveway with a large trashcan under it - of course only engine - not drive, or should I remove the prop and run the drive also? Not sure where the waterpump gear is located. This engine has not appeared to be hot at all so far - gauge works AFAIK.

Will check timing - 5 Degrees BTDC I believe.

I have been working on Rover V8's (Ex Buick) and Triumph TR6's for the past 20+yrs. Won't be giving up any time soon, perhaps have to change some parts however to more modern goodies.

 

[kenny nunez]

The engine you have was rated @ 150 hp and the same with a 2 barrel carberator was 155. The drive ratio was the same as the 120 hp . It should have a Delco distributor and the dwell can be set easily @ 40*. Needless to say this is fresh water boat that would have been long gone in the coastal regions.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Noticed that this has the mechanical advance - and the vacuum is capped. The points have been replaced at some point with the same one I picked up for the jeep motor (71).



I have been working on Rover V8's (Ex Buick) and Triumph TR6's for the past 20+yrs. Won't be giving up any time soon, perhaps have to change some parts however to more modern goodies.

if there is a vacuum canister, it is NOT a marine distributor (with all the shielding to prevent explosions)

quit thinking that you can use automotive parts on your marinized motor or start listing us as the beneficiaries for your life insurance policy. and no, I am not joking

there is therapy to help you with your obsession on a motor designed in 1961.

 

[Edthediscoman]

if there is a vacuum canister, it is NOT a marine distributor (with all the shielding to prevent explosions)

quit thinking that you can use automotive parts on your marinized motor or start listing us as the beneficiaries for your life insurance policy. and no, I am not joking

I get your reasoning here. Even though this particular engine isn't under cover ...per se, it does need to be spark proof which is impossible with standard dizzy.
Wouldn't be the first time I've seen a leaky mechanical fuel pump get ignited. (Albeit this boat has an electric one fitted). But there are fuel lines etc.

Does have a USCG approved flame arrestor on the carb intake which is a start.

Thanks for the heads up. Hadn't thought of that right off the bat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

gasoline fumes dont care if you have a cover on the engine or not. they sit in the bilge.......then boom.

marine fuel pumps have a vent line to the carb so that when they fail, they flood the carb making the motor run bad so you fix it vs dumping into the bilge and then boom

electric fuel pump must be SAE J1171 compliant or boom

same with the starter, alternator, etc.

the engine circulating pump is even marine (bronze impeller) vs the standard automotive variety. Head gaskets are marine (MLS stainless) vs automotive as well.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Will be checking all of the above this evening for flame filters. I just read about alternator, starter, dizzy, carb ports etc being prone to leaks and sparks. Will also remove the fuel pump and check that too for marine compatibility.

In my spare time... I did sell industrial flame arrestors to refineries etc with USCG approvals. (Just means I slept at a holiday inn last night really)

No bada-boom
Thanks Scott

Ed

 

[Edthediscoman]

Also, the PO gave me some sort of fan that was originally fitted near the bilge (in a box of parts). Not sure if that was spark proof, but if its original it might be.

 

[kenny nunez]

Take a close at the window in the distributor cap, the Buick or "nail head" had a fine mesh screen as original OMC equipment. Hopefully it is still in place. If it is not there you may have to create one. The distributors did come with a vacuum advance that was plugged with a rubber cap. Remember your engine is a "odd fire" style. I guess I am showing my age.
If it is a bilge blower it is USCG approved.

 

[Edthediscoman]

It does have a cap on it. Will look for the mesh. Seems this might not get done tonight, apparently we get our yearly storm today! I would guess in the 60's they did plug and play with mesh perhaps. Thanks for the Info Kenny.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Good news, fuel pump is marine, alternator has spark arrestor, see pics.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Found a hole in the fuel line (From tank to pump) while replacing all rubber hoses. Must have been rubbing. One less bada-boom. Now for the dizzy. It has a weird door on it, see pic. I am thinking it should have gauze/screen in there. Looks like it should be holding something. Maybe some old school guys can chime in?

 

[Edthediscoman]

Engine.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Melted plug ...Yup thats all solid metal.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Good news, after all new fuel hoses/filter/plugs/tune up etc she runs like a scalded dog. Until the fuel line starts to bubble upon hitting some swells in the middle of the lake. Wondering if its common for the tank to have bad pickup tube and suck in air?. Guess anything is possible on a 50yr old boat. Might pull the tank this weekend and take a look. Will take more pics if I do. Plus will replace the inlet filter to the pump. Probably the only thing in that line I didn't replace. The old motor had a mechanical pump, but that was replaced years ago with an electric one. They usually rupture the diaphragms and leak fuel into the oil.

 

[Edthediscoman]

Rust in fuel filter - only comes from one place. Tank. Here was the filler tube and OMG.....

 

[Edthediscoman]

A Quick look inside:

 

[Edthediscoman]

By quick look, I mean .....mouthfuls of gas to syphon it dry, beer to wash that down, 98 degrees and laying on fiberglass deck, struggling to get it out from 50yrs old mountings where only one midget can possibly fit, bleeding knuckles, flat head screws (Who uses those?).....and then.... a quick look.