Newbie as well OMC shift issues and cable alignments

[Limacharlie]

Hello I'm working on a 1984 OMC I/O mated to a 5.7l. Bought as a project. It was in at the marina and had the carb replaced twice for non running issues from bad gas. Then had the intake removed and resealed due to a vacuum leak. It runs and runs smooth now but after getting it back it would start fine and go into forward and neutral but would stall going into reverse. I located the issue that when the shifter is shifted into forward a lever moves a switch and when moved back to neutral it disengages. The alignment was off for reverse as it wouldn't make contact with the lever. I adjusted the red cable as per manual going to the drive and it is bang on but now the lever at the engine where both cables are connected doesn't move the slightest when placing in reverse. I can't win.

Any thoughts and suggestions. If I reverse the adjustments too far the other way it works in reverse but not forward!!!!

Thanks in advance

 

[Scott Danforth]

youre going to need to dig up setting the limit swiches on the shift interupt for your mechanical shift stringer http://www.sterndrive.info/id433.html

 

[Limacharlie]

Ok I've taken a look at the manual. It doesn't seem to be the same as what I have?

Maybe I'm not looking at the adjustments right or not explaining myself well.

I have a black cable that comes from the gear select and throttle control by the seat. That attaches to the right side of the upper part of the engine onto a bracket. On the same engine bracket there is a red cable going to the transmission and attaching to this same bracket on the top. When the lever by the seat is moved either forward or reverse the linkage at the engine moves a lever(looks like a metal V). This v has a switch which I believe cuts the engine out for a split second so it can engage and disengage the drive. When I put it in forward it moves the V and engages the switch, when I put it in reverse the V doesn't move a hair and the engine stalls out.

If this is the only way to adjust the cable I guess I'm pulling the bottom off. Just want to make sure that I explained myself correctly before I do this.

thank you again

 

[Scott Danforth]

Look at the link i posted

 

[Limacharlie]

Ok thank you. I was hoping it wasn't the case I guess? Not sure what the PO did or the marina tech might have touched. I'll get the tools needed and pull it out of the water. Thank you for your guidance and help. Very much appreciated. I'll post once I have done this with my results.

 

[Lou C]

Keep in mind that this is a 2 cable system. As you noted you have the remote control cable that goes from the remote control lever to the engine bellcrank shifter, mounted on a bracket on the engine. Then on the other end of the bellcrank is the transom shift cable, that goes through the transom mount to the outdrive.

​When doing a Cobra shift cable set up, you start with the outdrive off.
​First you want to measure the drag of the transom shift cable. If it is more than 2.5 lbs (I use a fish scale with the cable disconnected at both ends both the engine bell crank bracket and the pivot housing bellcrank) then you need a new cable. If not the cable you have is still OK.....


​For both parts of the adjustment procedure, there are updated factory manual instructions on Midnight Wolf's OMC parts website. I suggest you take careful look at them to understand what is involved.

So starting with the drive off:
​Make sure the bellcrank in the pivot housing is able to move freely, they can get deposits built up behind them and that can limit the range of motion. I clean it out every time I remove the drive and pack the area with OMC triple guard grease to keep water out...

You then use the special tools (bellcrank in the pivot housing holder, holds it at 90*) and the shift cable tool that is used up on the engine side, that helps set the length of the cable. After that adjustment is done, you install the drive.

​Then you have to adjust the remote cable and for this you need a helper, that can spin the prop (KEY OUT ENGINE OFF) while you shift the remote shifter at the helm. You need a helper to feel if the cable is getting equal throw in both fwd and rev and the prop is locking in, in both gears when shifted. This is something you can feel while spinning the prop when someone shifts the remote control.

​Once that part is done you have to make sure the ESA system is working and the engine idle speed is about 600 rpm. When activated the ESA drops the rpm from 600 to about 450 so the engine must be in good enough tune, to not stall at that rpm at least momentarily. NOTE: contrary to what people think, the ESA is supposed to activate ONLY when shifting from in gear (FWD or REV) to neutral. This is to allow the clutch dogs to release the FWD or REV gear. NOT when shifting into gear.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Lou, being 1984 its a mechanical stringer

 

[Lou C]

D'oh!